TheClient

There are a few ecu repair centres. Some will want to exchange the unit. I've no experience of using any of them i'm afraid. But if wiring is a possibility, then it won't fix that. It would be an idea to inspect suspect areas first. Possibility at the ecu / connector end.

Ha ha. Well. If it's blocked further down the line, no amount of rodding will fix it where you're working. Edit. It would confirm there is no possibility of scuttle drainage being a problem. Ps. Have you ever seen the inner liner to sill junction after a few years? Potatoes grow in there. I've save 2x5kg bags by harvesting.

Ok so short version is I had to drop the knuckle and hub assembly out of the lower front control arm (to replace a cv boot) and the strut was hanging by the top mounts. After manoeuvring back into place and everything back in place and torqued up, including the axle bolts. The top of the strut, suspect mountings or bearings creaks like a wooden rocking chair. I didn't touch the mounting or bolts but like I said, it was hanging and moved about. Could the upper spring locator or top mount have moved? From memory they're pretty specific and well located...

If it were me, I would first remove the inner front wheel arch liner and maybe scuttle (may need wiper pullers) as a first step, and clean out the crud and go from there.

Unless tyres are suspect and you replaced yours with a new alignment it is often a wheel bearing. And as a previous poster said they often get noisy before they show excess play. Only when you take it out and rotate in your hand do you notice it is rough.. glad it's fixed. Edits. Changed my rear nearside with a skf bearing when I bought it. Cost me £120 in parts. Did take me a while on the drive. Independent quoted £350 from memory. Haven't done the wheel alignment yet.

Great!!

wasn't there a technical fix for the kangarooing?

secondary circulation pump is cactus I'd say. edit: or wiring.

Ha ha. Me too though!!!. Lots of inflationary impacts starting to creep in. Not just fuel.

Also on the service book or in the rear spare wheel area is the sticker with the selected pr codes and also engine number that would be a tell tale sign. You can also pay for ekta online access and print out the entire pr selection for the vehicle and this has engine number as well. Not sure of the pr codes would show a particular mk2 or mk2fl interior but may do. Oh and the engine top timing cover has a barcode with mfr date. Check what date that says to see if it marries up.

Possibly then, is that different to the Limited edition? Did the special also have the facelift petrol engine?

What about calling a skoda service dealer and checking vin matches with ccza engine number they have recorded?

Seems an awful lot of trouble and expense to rebuild in that edit: Way. My guess is a changeover car but I could not be sure.

What engine code is in it?

I'd get it checked. Vw specialist or not. Rule out faulty oil pressure switch. Beyond that, clogged oil pick up or faulty pump....

Found someone experiencing exactly this scenario, causing misfires and incorrect fuel trim. See blueglue post in the failures thread.

I'm very near to you so the same petrol station comments apply. I usually use BP or JS 97. Sometimes Shell 99 but not at these prices. I may try the Ecomax additive if it really works with 50ml... edit. Last fill the wife put in 95 as that was all that was available......

Oh OK. CDAA. Scout ok. That makes more sense. I was assuming CCZA 2.0tsi. Must be AH or a subsequent revision (if it exists) after March 2017.

If E is installed that would mean 06H103495E > 06H103495AC > 06H103495AH with AH being the latest part number (as at March 2017) when the linked thread was written. But, that does not seem to align with your car engine mfr being 11 Sep 2011, as from 14 June 2010 I would expect the following part journey: H=> AD =>AJ (most current as at March 2017 original thread detail) . I've never seen a white coloured PCV on a CCZA engine?

@2stroke The PCV is a diaphragm and valve arrangement that controls the re-circulation of crankcase gasses back to the intake manifold to be burned in combustion. (Edit: and in the arrangement for the CCZA engine is oil vapour catchment arrangement, hence the term fine oil separator FOS) Mine was definitely contributing to oil residue externally. It resolved that problem. Mine, luckily had no significant usage problem. I sold it a few months ago at about 70k miles. So a little less than you are at now. I have seen posts on here one recently from a car in Australia that suggests faulty PCV can cause noticeable oil consumption. For the price around £90 gbp I'd replace it with a VW genuine item. They don't hold up that well after 4 or 5 years. It is an easy DIY job mounted on top of the engine with a few torx screws. Just need to be careful with plastic pipe clips and do not drop anything in the engine cam cover when open!!! As for your other information, you've done everything I did to maintain engine cleanliness. Fixed servicing 15k km/ 12 months, much better for the engine. 5W40 is a bit more resistant to consumption at higher temperatures. If the turbo seals are good, no play etc, then it can only really be the dreaded piston ring clogging or I suppose valve stem seals. But it is usually the former. At early stages of higher usage, compression test will not show any issues either. I'd change out the PCV first before going any deeper.

Refer post by @Alvis 18 January 2019 in thread linked. It seems VW did not only make poor design and engineering of pistons and rings on Petrol EA888 also diesels as well..

On a diesel it won't be a PCV which is why it is integrated and seemingly not available separately. It will probably just be a baffle or gauze screen or both won't it? (Edited: internal diaphragm only it appears. Seems you can get some non genuine aftermarket parts for the diaphragm...)

Not in my experience at all and not if you want to have your car without major engine issues for longer than a few years......1L per 1000 miles is too much even if some cars do display that.

If it makes you feel better, in my Golf R, mixed driving with a fair chunk of urban, and not driving hard, just the occasional burst onto a slip lane I get about 320-330 using VPower 99! Motorway, longer trip 70mph (may be a little more), maybe 400-420 miles. I have put 95 in it before and the range was slightly reduced, it is not recommend for this engine (Golf R) but with current fuel prices and the premium shell charge for V Power I may have to experiment a bit and keep a brick under the right go pedal... Haven't tried E10 95, my experience was before that in May 2021..

Yep. But it isn't right is it? In last 10 years, I have had a mk5 golf twin charger. Used about 1l in 7k miles. a Mk2 vRS petrol used about 0,5l to 1L in 8k miles and now a mk7 Golf R, I would estimate 1L in 6k miles. The oil light did go on at 3k miles after change but I only put about 5.2L in, so it was 0.5 below specified full fill. Oil burning is not good for petrol engines especially. Medium and long term longevity impacted. Why should an engine need to burn 1L in 1k miles?