When I bought the car 12 months ago, on the list of things I discovered on inspection, was a fair bit of oil on the intake tract connection at top of turbo, very near the brake fluid reservoir.

 

This still seems to be an issue - see photo from taken from above.

 

At the same time, I've been chasing an oil leak underneath that collects on the diverter valve, or the charged air housing bolt of the turbo - see photo - generally it seems to cover the underside of the turbo area, and then drips from a convenient point.

 

I have had a look at the usual culprits, top and bottom chain covers and valve covers - and they appear good.  Some sign of weepage on the valve cover but no oil trails. So I'm back to the intact tract connection leaking oil.

 

The photos show the oil drip on the turbo charge air housing taken from underneath on the drivers side with wheel removed. I think the oil is leaking from higher up from where the drip is visible (on the bolt).  It is not a huge amount - not enough to record usage in 6,000 miles but is is fairly visible and has left a film on the driveshaft and sprayed some of the wishbones etc underneath.

 

What do people think - that much oil coming from the air intake tract?  Or something else (the intact tract connection shows signs of oil leaking).  Is it a likely symptomatic PCV fault allowing too much oil to pass?

 

Plugs changed about 6 months ago and were in good condition no oil fouling or anything vehicle doesn't use oil.

 

 

 

Similar to mine, and we strongly suspect that mine is leaking from the CAM sensor under the plastic timing cover. Apparently when the garage repaired mine from the timing chain tensioner failure before I bought it, they didn't replace Orings/seals and just bodged it. Over time it's failing and oil is leaking and running to the area in your photos.  Mine's going through about 1L in 1500 miles, so I'm keen to fix mine.

 

Have you done the usual PCV checks?

Edited 15 March, 20179 yr by planehazza

18 minutes ago, planehazza said:

Similar to mine, and we strongly suspect that mine is leaking from the CAM sensor under the plastic timing cover. Apparently when the garage repaired mine from the timing chain tensioner failure before I bought it, they didn't replace Orings/seals and just bodged it. Over time it's failing and oil is leaking and running to the area in your photos.  Mine's going through about 1L in 1500 miles, so I'm keen to fix mine.

 

Have you done the usual PCV checks?

On the PCV - there is no engine codes, lean codes or idle faults.  The idle turns rough when dipstick or oil cap removed and there is some suction on the oil cap.

 

The Cam position sensor is on the edit: valve cover (rocker cover old world term, sorry), front mid position isn't it?

 

Edited 15 March, 20179 yr by TheClient

43 minutes ago, TheClient said:

On the PCV - there is no engine codes, lean codes or idle faults.  The idle turns rough when dipstick or oil cap removed and there is some suction on the oil cap.

 

The Cam position sensor is on the edit: valve cover (rocker cover old world term, sorry), front mid position isn't it?

 

 

Yeah, sounds like your PCV is OK. Easy enough to remove it and check the orange diaphragm.  

 

Yes, that sensor too.  The oring there is leaking very slightly so I need to source a new ring. The one I was talking about is on the left side of the engine, near or within the large plastic cover on the left side that conceals the timing chain etc.

 

I might be wrong but I think the mechanic is talking about the CAM adjustment bit, page 11 here: http://www.vaglinks.com/Docs/VW/Misc/VW.COM_2.0L_TSI_Turbo_SSP_824803.pdf

 

Page 18 of that same document might be useful for my engine's performance issue.  It looks like it would be very stupid of them to get the timing wrong given that all the sprockets and chains are marked.

Edited 15 March, 20179 yr by planehazza

OK, thanks. I'll have a look for the camshaft adjustment valve and see if it looks a likely source in my case.  It sounds close to where I think the location of the problem is.

 

I doubt the camshaft position sensor is the cause of mine, as it is all the way round the front and would take a long path to track all round the front and LHS of the engine to get around to the back but I'll have another look.  I think it is a single bolt, so an o-ring on that would be an easy change!

 

Edit: Ps Yes there are timing marks for all the chains but with the engine mounted in the car and tight clearances and needing to be above the car to check the camshaft timing marks and underneath to check the crankshaft for the main timing chain and that they all remain in the same place, takes a bit of skill and attention I would imagine.

 

The camshafts have a spring movement which can release tension on the chain, which causes them to move, which also make things a little difficult keeping the chain in the right place as everything fixed in place. Edit2: probably only a concern if head work being done and camshafts have to be reinstalled. 

Edited 15 March, 20179 yr by TheClient

Yeah I don't think the front CAM sensor as the culprit on yours either, but if there's any oil there too, worth changing it.

Camshaft adjustment valve mounting on upper timing case looks A Ok - see photos. No oil from underneath at all.  

 

Anybody with any other ideas? I suppose I should remove the intake pipework from top of turbo and clean and see how quickly the oil comes back....

 

 

 

 

I'm interested in your findings as I currently have exactly the same issue.

10 minutes ago, chrismeasor said:

I'm interested in your findings as I currently have exactly the same issue.

I'm interested in my findings too! I wish I had some concrete ones.   So far none the wiser from earlier thoughts,  i.e.  that intake tract connection weeping oil due to the pcv connection immediately into it. But enough to drip down from engine parts and drip onto the driveshaft - I don't know.

 

This afternoon, I removed some of the intake pipework and cleaned up around the problem connection besides the brake reservoir as best I could. I tried to have a good look around but visibility is not great around there even with intact pipework out of the way.   There was oil inside the connection fittings and there was a coating of oil but it didn't appear to extend into the turbo alloy intake tubing as that was all clean and dry.  There was oil and dirt on the outside of the secondary plastic / rubber fitting that the intake tract pipe fits into and also all over the small pipe visible in the photos and further below that, the pipes purpose I'm not totally sure of as I couldn't trace it from above - maybe vacuum.. 

 

I didn't want to start removing anything further down as I'm not sure if the rest of connections just sits on the turbo intake pipe or are clamped and space is tight besides the brake reservoir.  It didn't seem like it would serve a lot of purpose anyway.

 

Note: If trying this for yourself, you can't get the spring clip off the intake tract clamp without remote release clamp pliers. Luckily I had a set from a recent purchase.

 

Request: If anyone else has a EA888 2.0TSI it would be helpful if they can confirm the positioning of the spring clamp on the turbo intake connection besides the brake reservoir. I.e. toward bottom, middle or top (there is a fair bit of movement to position it) and whether they notice much oil seepage.   Mine was towards the top section and I've left it there, but wondering if I moved it down a bit further it may seal up better.

 

Any other ideas gratefully received. Otherwise I'm just going to have to leave this a few months - see how much oil is back on that connection and see if it is still collecting underneath the car.

 

A few photos but they are not great due to position.

 

 

 

 

Try this, but in case PCV can't cope with too much oil, this will only sort out the mess around and not oil consumption. You say engine take not much oil until now? EA888 are either 1.8 or 2.0.

 

https://translate.google.co.uk/translate?sl=auto&tl=en&js=y&prev=_t&hl=cs&ie=UTF-8&u=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.drive2.ru%2Fl%2F4295583%2F&edit-text=

https://translate.google.co.uk/translate?hl=cs&sl=ru&tl=en&u=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.drive2.ru%2Fl%2F4352246%2F

https://translate.google.co.uk/translate?hl=cs&sl=ru&tl=en&u=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.drive2.ru%2Fl%2F6025145%2F

https://translate.google.co.uk/translate?hl=cs&sl=ru&tl=en&u=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.drive2.ru%2Fl%2F1698739%2F

 

22 minutes ago, rayx said:

Try this, but in case PCV can't cope with too much oil, this will only sort out the mess around and not oil consumption. You say engine take not much oil until now? EA888 are either 1.8 or 2.0.

 

https://translate.google.co.uk/translate?sl=auto&tl=en&js=y&prev=_t&hl=cs&ie=UTF-8&u=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.drive2.ru%2Fl%2F4295583%2F&edit-text=

https://translate.google.co.uk/translate?hl=cs&sl=ru&tl=en&u=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.drive2.ru%2Fl%2F4352246%2F

https://translate.google.co.uk/translate?hl=cs&sl=ru&tl=en&u=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.drive2.ru%2Fl%2F6025145%2F

https://translate.google.co.uk/translate?hl=cs&sl=ru&tl=en&u=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.drive2.ru%2Fl%2F1698739%2F

 

Thanks for your interest and post.

It is the 2.0 Tsi. It is in the thread title. 

 

The diagram is useful but my intake pipe looks exactly like the replacement part suggested already.  The car does not require topping up between 12 month services, so oil usage is not a problem. 

Yes, I noticed, it was meant that links I gave here are about 1.8, but because of same design of EA888 it is valid for 2.0 too. You have now cleaned the pipe and hose, in case it will get oily again, you know what to check, look at the part number on the pipe as currect one might be previous version.

 

When engine take no oil, that is great, so I guess it might be produced after June 2011. It is common the EA888 from autumn 2008 till June 2011 have bad design of piston rings, so when on LL oil service, it can get around 100kkm in trouble. Good oil and service per 1year/15000km max can avoid possible high oil consumption issue.

Edited 18 March, 20179 yr by rayx

30 minutes ago, rayx said:

Yes, I noticed, it was meant that links I gave here are about 1.8, but because of same design of EA888 it is valid for 2.0 too. You have now cleaned the pipe and hose, in case it will get oily again, you know what to check, look at the part number on the pipe as currect one might be previous version.

 

When engine take no oil, that is great, so I guess it might be produced after June 2011. It is common the EA888 from autumn 2008 till June 2011 have bad design of piston rings, so when on LL oil service, it can get around 100kkm in trouble. Good oil and service per 1year/15000km max can avoid possible high oil consumption issue.

Yes, it is running well. Just this oil leak from underneath, and visible weeping on intake connection, which I suppose may be the cause, maybe.  Not significant enough to record oil usage at present.

 

The pipe looks the same but having looked at your posting again, I think the item 10 group is suggesting replacing the lower fitting, intake pipe, clamp all as one (hopefully) part collection. I'll try to see what part number is stamped on my intake pipe. Maybe they revised the connection format.

 

Mine is April 2011 manufacture date as stamped on the barcode on the timing cover, so I suppose the old piston and ring design.

 

This was a photo after I cleaned up the engine bay last year. It is a bit dirtier again now!

Edited 18 March, 20179 yr by TheClient

Well, the diagram picture is from ETKA, VAG parts catalogue, and regarding pos10 it says that when you order it, you get it together with pos.9+11+12 as pos.9 is not possible to order separate. Yes, according TPI (Technical Product Information) buletin they changed outlet details on the pipe as "Deviations in tolerances for the dimensions and quality of the surface" found on previous revision.

 

May I know how many km/miles it has now? Beside piston/rings issue, they have yet problematic chain tensioner and chain design prone to jump and extend, solved in March 2012 with tensioner 06K109467K, all previous versions 06H___ N, T or AB are prone to fail ... Modified chains available first from end 2013, last revision is 06K109158AD.

9 minutes ago, rayx said:

Well, the diagram picture is from ETKA, VAG parts catalogue, and regarding pos10 it says that when you order it, you get it together with pos.9+11+12 as pos.9 is not possible to order separate. Yes, according TPI (Technical Product Information) buletin they changed outlet details on the pipe as "Deviations in tolerances for the dimensions and quality of the surface" found on previous revision.

 

May I know how many km/miles it has now? Beside piston/rings issue, they have yet problematic chain tensioner and chain design prone to jump and extend, solved in March 2012 with tensioner 06K109467K, all previous versions 06H___ N, T or AB are prone to fail ... Modified chains available first from end 2013, last revision is 06K109158AD.

Ok, I'll ring a Skoda dealer or TPS and see how scary the part set is, thanks. Useful.

 

Yes, done the timing chain, tensioner, guides and rails and lower cover when I bought it at 33k miles, April 2016.

 

41k Miles at present.

Was at the Garage today and they think the main leak is the plastic chain tension cover.  They've quoted me ~£60 plus vat and labour to replace it to see if it helps as the current part is bodged on with sealant, rather than the correct gasket etc.  I'll let you know how I get on. 

15 hours ago, planehazza said:

Was at the Garage today and they think the main leak is the plastic chain tension cover.  They've quoted me ~£60 plus vat and labour to replace it to see if it helps as the current part is bodged on with sealant, rather than the correct gasket etc.  I'll let you know how I get on. 

Yes, if that hasn't been done properly and leaking then that will help your cause.

 

Mine was done with the timing chain / tensioner replacement and all looks good so not the problem in my case. The seal is 06h103483C and was £18.62 for the part plus vat as a part of the change out when I had it done a year ago.

2 hours ago, TheClient said:

Yes, if that hasn't been done properly and leaking then that will help your cause.

 

Mine was done with the timing chain / tensioner replacement and all looks good so not the problem in my case. The seal is 06h103483C and was £18.62 for the part plus vat as a part of the change out when I had it done a year ago.

 

 

Cheers dude. I was quoted ~£60+VAT but I think that included a new plastic cover too.  Not sure why, but I trust them implicitly so we'll see how it goes

So, 4 months on. Time to recheck.  I'll get some photos up when I get under the car.

 

In brief, the area around the intake pipe connection to turbo is still quite clean but some slight seepage re-evident now 4 months / 3k miles after disassembly and cleaning. 

 

However, I still have drops of oil collecting around diverter valve assembly, on the metal connection spigot to intercooler pipework,  some on the heat shielding of the oil supply pipe. it is enough to continue to drop onto the driveshaft and spray over the suspension arms. It can't be that bad though as I'm not adding any oil.

 

Having done a bit of googling all these seem pretty common problems in mk6 Gti forums. There is quite a lot of posts, more difficult to follow with the photobucket photos hosting policy changes! Although, you can generally open the individual photos in a new web browser page.

 

e.g. http://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=225620.0

 

However, the suggestions are numerous and the trail goes cold at the end with a lot of posts suggesting after replacing intake pipes and pcv pipe connection and cleaning up, the problem came back.  

 

1- Replace PCV

2- Replace PCV breather pipe to intake pipe 

3- Replace intake pipework to turbo with the new connection detail

4- Replace oil return and or oil feed pipes to turbo and gaskets.

5 - Replace Diverter Valve

 

I'm going to get under the car with a light and inspection mirror and have another good look. I don't think it is the oil return, or the oil feed connection to block as I sighted those before. It could be a slight weep on the oil feed connection to turbo but that is very difficult to see on top of turbo ( the mirror may help get a view).

 

If I replace all those without pinning a proper diagnosis, I'll be broke as I'm guessing that list of 5 parts is >£400...

 

So I need to be a bit more selective. Anyone with experience of having fixed underside of turbo oil dripping in a EA888?

 

I'll post some pics and an update again once I've re-inspected under the car but if I can not identify any cause beyond the oil around the diverter and the oil around the intake pipe connection to turbo, I think I'd be tempted to replace the PCV, PCV Breather tube and maybe the diverter incase the oring is not sealing against the turbo body very well. Even those are probably £150 upward for what is a speculative fix!

 

Any ideas or specific experience in solving gratefully received.

 

I thought I had a leak, and I need to 1000% check it, but I'm pretty confident it was from a failed DV.  The diaphragm had not split but the inside of the electrical connector was full of oil.  There was no oil above so I'm fairly certain it has not dripped down as I previously had suspected.  If you get a chance, take your DV off and inspect the inside of the connector.  Are you getting and driving issues symptomatic of a DV fault like I was?

Nothing that points to any DV  fault. Boost seems to hold to expectations. E xcept the Visible oil leakage everthing seems ok..

 

 Mind you, the DV is probably original and 6 years old. Just seems odd that there is that much oil to collect in the turbo in the first place to drip out the DV.  Which is why I'm thinking replacing the PCV assembly too. But is starts getting expensive!!

4 minutes ago, TheClient said:

Nothing that points to any DV  fault. Boost seems to hold to expectations. E xcept the Visible oil leakage everthing seems ok..

 

 Mind you, the DV is probably original and 6 years old. Just seems odd that there is that much oil to collect in the turbo in the first place to drip out the DV.  Which is why I'm thinking replacing the PCV assembly too. But is starts getting expensive!!

 

Yeah I know what you mean. In the 18 months, I've replaced:

-PCV

-DV

-Coil packs

-plugs

-IM

-sump pan

 

+ serviceable items obviously.  Mounts up.  My DV threw no codes but since swapping mine the car has improved a lot (apart from a 2.5k rpm stutter, unrelated we think) so it might be worth looking at for £40.  Even if it didn't need it, well the one you've got on now is original anyway so no harm done.

 

When the main diaphragm on the PCV (the space ship part) fails, you'll know about it, trust me.  Half of Newcastle heard it...

OK. 

 

Checked top banjo fitting for oil feed to turbo with an inspection mirror (saved having to remove intake pipework and heat shield).  It looks fine there is definitely no oil quantity or wetting of oil around that fitting.

 

Also, looked again at both ends of the oil return of the Turbo and the block connection side of the oil feed. No problems.

 

There was no split evident in the oil return pipe or the oil feed pipe that was visible. The only bit you can't see is the last section of the oil feed pipe as it has a unsulation cover slip fitting over it. But I doubt that would be it as it would all be concentrating at the end of the pipe where the insulation ends and dripping noticeably from there after travelling down.

 

So out of my list, that leaves:

 

1) diverter valve o ring passing - replace diverter

2) PCV fine oil separator not working correctly (excessive oil vapour) - replace oil separator and possibly pcv to intake pipe (brittle easily broken)

3) Air intake connection to top of turbo leaking condensed PCV oil vapour down outer underside of turbo and collecting at lowest points - replace intake set assembly

 

I haven't yet taken another photo from the top of the intake pipe to turbo which was really oily before. It is not too bad now, with just a hint of seepage evident after 4 months / nearly 3k miles. I will add one later.  But as I didn't take the whole flexible fitting and bottom spring clamp off the turbo last time, the lower side of it is still oily underneath. It is very difficult to see just how oily though.

 

There is still enough oil to form a drop on the charged air spigot on bottom of turbo and it has been dripping onto the drive shaft. But I still don't need to add  any oil.

 

I will call a dealer or TPS next week but I reckon all 3 of those is going to be £260 and up in part cost.  I'd love to narrow it down. On the positive side, I suppose I am happy it doesn't appear to be turbo oil supply related.

 

Photos:

 

Oil build up on turbo charged air feed outlet. Diverter in background also misted with oil.

Block turbo oil connections all dry

After Clean Up (again...)

 

Edited 21 July, 20178 yr by TheClient

Photos of the intake pipe to turbo. 4 months / 3k miles after I cleaned it up.  There is some soiling on the lower spring clip connection as I did not remove it to clean the lower side, when I did the job (I should have). The upper side is still fairly clean, although a small amount of returned seepage is evident.

 

Still a bit unsure that it could be this connection leaking enough to form droplets onto underside of turbo charge air spigot, spray the diverter valve in a misting coating and drop onto drive shaft.  I suppose it doesn't take much seepage and then it is on a vertical surface and doesn't have that far to travel but it seems unlikely to me. Maybe diverter and then PCV replacement maybe places to start...

 

 

I'd be curious to know if you ever cured this leak?