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AGFalco

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Everything posted by AGFalco

  1. Any one or all? Yes , smaller cars can be more noisy. Smaller engine as well. Thanks. AG Falco
  2. Compared to what? What size tyres have you got? What mileage is it at? Thanks. AG Falco
  3. Sorry different Swing to mine. Have you tried to post in the Fabia II section? Thanks. AG Falco.
  4. Correct, forgot to mention that bit. Thanks. AG Falco
  5. Is there a Media Button? HTH. Thanks AG Falco
  6. Is a 2015 Fabia not a MK III? Has it ever worked? I have a 2018 Citigo which has a Swing unit fitted. The AUX didn't work the the first time I tried it. From memory I plugged in an AUX cable attached to a mobile phone which was playing some media. Then pushed the Media button ( twice? ) . Try this. HTH Thanks. AG Falco
  7. OK, had the car from new in June 2016 and have just had the first part fail at 7+ years and 76K miles. So far the car has has regular servicing, tyres ( last over 30 K miles ) and some wiper blades. Sill on original brakes all round although I might need to change these by 100K miles.😮 So I noticed a knocking at lower revs when accelerating in every gear with the noise coming from in front of me. After an investigation I noticed that the O-S-F lower front suspension arm at the rear end was lower that on the N-S-F. Where it fits in the the subframe. A pry bar in the right place and the arm moved up. The knocking noise disappeared for all of a day. A quick look and yes the arm had moved down again. On my Fiat Panda I changed both arms that came complete with front and rear bushes and the outer lower ball joints at 95K miles because of wear in the same rear bushes. But with the Fabia the fail was that the central rubber had delaminated from the outer metal ring. Front bushes don't tend to suffer a much and with the outer lower ball joint being a separate part on the Fabia I decided to just replace both rear bushes. So lift the car up and remove both front wheels/tyres and the undertray. At the rear of the arm there is an 18 mm bolt going from under the subframe up through the bush with an 18 mm nut on top of the subframe. At the front of the arm there is one 18 mm bolt pointing to the rear of the car. Then undo three 13 mm nuts holding the outer lower ball joint on to the arm. Once all of these are removed you wiggle/pull the whole arm out. The bushes need removing from / refitting to the arm using a hydraulic press. The O-S one is in two parts being the middle and right bits in the photo above. There were some knocking marks on one part of the outer metal ring where it was hitting the subframe. The part on the left is from the N-S and is also showing signs of delaminating. Note the triangular arrows on the rubber parts need to line up with guide marks on the arm, and when fitted one points to the front bush and the other towards the back of the car. Once the new bush is fitted then reassemble. I found that you want to fit the rear bush in to the subframe first. This was tight and by holding the arm but with the front bush closer / pointing to the front hub and with a rubber hammer it went in easier. Then fit the rear bolt and nut in the bush but don't tighten up yet. Twist the arm to locate the front bush and fit front bolt but also don't tighten up yet. Then refit the three 13 mm nuts holding the outer lower ball joint on to the arm. Then tighten all nuts / bolts and repeat this on the other side. A short drive to let the suspension settle and an alignment adjustment later all is good. No knocking noises since. Everything came apart without any difficulty. New bushes were expensive though. 😮 Prices in £ In the grand scheme of things, not the end of the world. Still like the car and still plan to keep it long term just like the other three cars I have. Thanks. AG Falco
  8. It can be done. I have done this on one of my cars. You do need to right software / app. Don't complain to Skoda though:- ''Lane departure warning systems (LDWS) are another type of lane assist technology that simply alerts the driver if they're veering out of their lane. Alongside speed limiters, more basic forms of lane-keep assist are expected to be made mandatory on all new cars in 2022.29 Mar 2022 '' Thanks. AG Falco
  9. I bought 4 Skoda wheel trims recently and had them delivered from:- https://www.skoda-parts.com/online-store.html For the ones I wanted they were cheaper than TPS including delivery to the UK. Thanks. AG Falco
  10. Signal. I have Lane assist and have programmed it to remember the last state it was in. So it stays off until I turn it off. Saw a kid from the same senior school get hit by a car back in the 70's when front bumpers were hard chrome covered metal. It was on a four lane road, two lanes from his right and two lanes from his left. There was only one car coming from his right and they didn't signal when they changed lanes from lane two to lane one. He wasn't very visible as he was standing behind some pavement furniture. So the kid assumed the car was staying in lane, and the driver assumed no one was about so didn't signal. So both were in error but you can guess the rest. So I just always signal. Thanks AG Falco
  11. Signals (rules 103 to 106), Hide Rule 103 Signals warn and inform other road users, including pedestrians (see ‘Signals to other road users), of your intended actions. You should always From the present UK highway code - note the last three words. Thanks. AG Falco
  12. If you have a infotainment system then you might have a second manual just for that. Thanks. AG Falco
  13. Make sure it is a smart stop/start alternator that they fit. Thanks. AG Falco
  14. Are you near North Dorset. Thanks. AG Falco
  15. The explanation we had was that the BMC will charge the new battery to the same level as the old one. So the new battery starts its life by not being charged enough. Hence the shorter life it might have. So coding the battery to the car tells the BMC there is a new battery and it will charge it as a new battery. Thanks. AG Falco
  16. The battery manufactures training we had. Thanks. AG Falco
  17. It doesn't NEED coding but when I need a new battery on my Fabia III I WILL code it myself. Short term you wont notice anything but coding helps with the life of a battery long term. We fit many batteries a week and all stop/start, EFB, AGM batteries with a BCM unit are coded. If you keep a car long term and need a new battery the the bigger the better. It only needs to save you once and the extra was worth it. Some OE Moll batteries expired early although mine is still going strong after 7 years / 76K miles. Thanks. AG Falco
  18. Just a hole and you can see the fan/motor/workings. Underneath the passenger wiper blade/ left hand side. Thanks. AG Falco
  19. Are there three connectors on the bulb holder. I might have a look at mine. Thanks. AG Falco
  20. Does it only flash when you indicate right? Thanks. AG Falco
  21. Do you have the MFSW. Multi Function Steering Wheel. The instruction manual for the Bolero is separate/different from the car manual. I do have it as a PDF. Thanks. AG Falco
  22. What Citigo have you got and what age, mileage is it? Do you have any MOT and Service history? Coolant. check strength of coolant, it's anti freezing resistance. Change if low/poor only. Oil and Filter change every 12 months / 10 K miles. ( Don't use Halfords ) You can check when the last service reset was done using some OBD2 devices like OBDeleven. Don't assume that the service was done without some other proof like an invoice. Air filter. every 60K miles but do it when the Spark plugs are changed which is at 4 years / 40K miles. Pollen filter. every 2 years / 20 K miles, remove and see if it is clean. Light condensation. remove cover to bulbs and blow a hairdryer in to it. Transmission oil. Don't need to change unless you have a problem. Bushes & suspension, look at MOT history first. Some useful info in this post:- Thanks. AG Falco
  23. If you have more than one VAG car then look at this:- https://obdeleven.com/ Thanks. AG Falco
  24. I have a Citigo 2018 and these were easy enough to change. I have a Fabia III 2016 and these are harder to change and they look the same as the OP's photos. See here:- Thanks. AG Falco
  25. I have always put a very small dab of grease on mine to help. I also have a home made tool to help with the twist in & out fitting. I have had to raise the beam direction under the bonnet to get the best out of them. 6mm Allen key. Dont forget the headlight adjuster knob on the dash as well. Do they work better? Thanks. AG Falco

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