TruckbusUK

DSG -Direct Shift Gearbox Without going into all the technical detail, essentially a variant on an automatic gearbox. hope it helps.

Ah, ok, sorry thought it was your car, and was interested on how you got on.

So ignoring scrub and with approx. 15mm more clearance, and the speedo under reading by about 5%'ish .... has it achieved what you wanted, and do you feel any change in the cars handling?

I agree, my nearest tyre chain, who are now owned by Halfords, has a Hunter machine, but on questioning, no-one on site was trained to use it .... Check who has the kit on www.alignmycar.co.uk

Basically the same only two terminals vs three and in the "old days" they were used for higher current applications ... but yeah, long time since I've seen that term used.

Have you checked the door seals? Dry and dust with talc, then as you state, park the car pointing downhill and give it a good drenching with a hose .... wait an hour or so then check the footwells for dampness and the door seals for missing talc (the point of ingress.) If all is dry at least its one thing off the list as a potential cause.

I would not delay, esp at this time being close to Christmas, get the fitters back out explaining nicely that there was no leak before the replacement and they need to rectify the issue as your car is now being damaged by a leak.

TBH I thought and may be wrong that the permitted overhang on the sides was 305mm (past the wing/door mirrors,) and if it exceeded that then you need a wide load permit so 50mm is unlikely to break any rules. 🙂

Mmm, so he also stopped and chatted to every caravanist as well?

Exactly what happened with my Volvo, the McGuard locks were totally butchered and it took a whole day for the dealer to remove the locks with no more damage to the wheels, so wheels still get nicked maybe not for the wheels but certainly for the £900 quids worth of tyres that had just been fitted. Luckily the dealer only charged £100 to do the removal and lock replacement through goodwill.😭

Excellent ... safety first etc 🙂

Surely you "crack" the bolts/nuts off whilst the car is still on the ground relieving the tension/stress, then lift the car up with the jack and remove the bolts/nuts with out any danger of pulling the car off the jack?

Sorry nonsense, regardless of where the bolts are manufactured and by whom, if they are to the design and purchase spec, and they should be or the QA dept and the goods-in testing departments should be fired if not then its really unlikely to make a jot of a difference where they are manufactured or sourced from.

TBH, I would have guessed that that damage was done with a rattle gun with its torque setting set at max and a non impact spec socket that was already worn, really surprised you can do that damage with a hand tool and not notice. 😲

I'm sure it was only £2.71 + vat (it was a couple of years ago) from my Skoda dealer when I managed to loose one down a stank whilst changing a wheel, plus it was in stock so no waiting.

I agree with J.R. defo aluminium oxidation on the cooling fins, the casing acting as a heatsink for the electronics situated in the casing, it totally normal where the aluminium has been exposed. Unless it looks like its been out before and has signs of copious amounts of silicone in an attempt to reseal I'd leave well alone, its unlikely that water ingress has happened if its still factory sealed. Just my opinion.🙂

I have been lurking with interest, and I have done that for 30 years and IMO it is by far the way to go, even running several sets of Winters all year round (I never experienced any of the scare stories about them wearing out in jig time or loss of grip etc, etc.) The fact I'm now older and wheels and tyres have got much bigger and heavier, I went for "all seasons" on the Yeti this time and lost the summer/winter set up, saved some money and more importantly saved my back etc, but that's just the way I went, if Dale_Stevens wants to overlap his tyre profiles, then fair enough its his choice, don't see the benefit personally, but then again we are all different. 🙃

Don't forget to wipe down the joining surfaces with IPA to get rid of any grease or other contaminates, if you can press the tape with a roller or similar, alt a dry cloth and press hard before making the joint. 3M web site has installation criteria and tip/hints for use.

3M VHB 5952 tape 1.1mm thick or if you need a thinner version VHB 5925 0.6mm thick, available in various widths. Hope it helps

Thanks for that, interesting, but I've looked, both ours are diesels, and with ADblue, the floors are exactly the same as the pics of the 4X4 in that thread, and have the tools stored under the spare wheel, the moulding for the towbar is now in the drivers side moulded box., so certainly in later ADblue equipped diesels, there is no difference in the floor boxes, they are the same, cant comment on any petrol derivatives. So maybe its the diff between later petrol and diesel cars and the need to put the optional towbar hitch somewhere that's not being used for the ADblue tank.

No problem, confused though as we have had both and the inserts were the same. Good luck with your quest. 🙂

Didnt think there was any diff in the foam inserts between the 2WD and the 4WD in the Yeti. anyhow, I have a new'ish (used for 3 months) set of inserts available if your interested, sure we could come to some arrangement.

Sadly I did check this many years ago J.R., and you may be correct, as if I remember that registration number was indeed a Blue Yeti from the VAG fleet, but never made its first MOT ..... 🙃

Take care loading the roof ... the load limit is 100kg, less the bars, feet and any roofbox/basket you use, and remember each style of roofbar has different load capacities .... ie Thule square bars are only 75kg, where the aero/wing bars are 100kg. Enjoy Germany and the wonderful Autobahns 🙂

g6zru, get it done, dealer or indi, whatever/where-ever its small change to the cost of an engine rebuild if it decides to let go, some makes of cars I have had easily out last the "recommended" change interval ... but VAG in my experience everything seems to fail or wear out around the documented intervals.