Warrior193

I've always called the part in direct contact with the cam a cam follower.

Second trying the 1.0 TSI - be aware there are two engine versions, keep a lookout for the 6-speed, 110 PS version.

I can recommend the Ring smart charger.

I assume by that is that you felt that there was a significant drop in performance - did your consumption also go up?

Hello Zagato, welcome to the forum. One thing you may not be aware of - due to the way VW charging system utilises energy recuperation under over-run and braking conditions, the alternator very rarely will be permitted to charge the battery to more that 60-75% - even on a battery in perfect condition - leaving the remaining 25% battery capacity available for regenerative charging.

You could go back to them and ask for a price breakdown.

Almost a certainty that there are better options available than original. I'd be very tempted to change to Koni or similar when the time comes for mine.

Hi Colin, has it fixed the problem?

Hi Boro, great price - did that include the tensioner?

Re point OK7, shouldn't that be a NOT OK? - the red LED should only flash when car is locked and alarmed.

Hi Nick, I'm curious - what happened?

Hi, it was the 'hard vibrations/misfiring' you quoted that concerned me. I suppose turbo failure could be a possibility, but if the oil seals have 'blown' I see it as less likely for it to cause an over boost issue. I may be wrong, but I think the fuel rail low pressure (000135, P0087) fault does point towards something driving the fuel pump. Also, unless the turbo has shed its blades into the engine, I don't really see it shutting it down completely.

Unfortunately, very likely to be the case, plus possible damage to pistons. 1st thing to check will be the cam chain and tensioner - then, depending on what is found there, ideally, the head would need to come off if found that compression has been lost.

Hi, welcome to the forum. Strong possibility that the cam-chain has stretched, or cam tensioner has failed, causing the valve timing and fuel injection to get out of sync.

That was a great price - especially including the water pump.

P.S. I retained the old belt and tensioner and gave them very careful inspection after removal - they both looked good enough to put back on!

Hi Cheesy, welcome to the forum. It's a judgement call really. I had mine replaced at 6 years (very low miles) - I was tempted to take to 7 or 8 years, but I chickened out! A consideration to make is that it is only Skoda UK that insists on 5 years - my understanding is that Seat, VW and Audi all specify longer periods - all with exactly the same engine. Mine cost £436, including aux. belt and tensioner, at a largeish independent garage.

Where is that drive sprocket from - is it the injection sprocket?

I rather suspect a broken camshaft as well as the tensioner!

Hello D Master, welcome to the forum. Almost certainly your cam belt tensioner has failed. Warning, do not rotate the engine any further until you can get it checked. Are you also saying that one of the cam gear wheels appears to be loose on the camshaft?

Mutton stew for dinner tonight?

Hello Bri, welcome to the forum. By reaching over from the drivers side, carefully pull (bend) the hood release towards the centre of the car until it clears the passenger door enough to move the lever rearwards. Another way is to plug a 12 volt supply into the 12 volt socket (take care with polarity - centre contact is positive +) this will power up the central locking.

How about a pair of powerful suction cups on the rear side windows, with web strapping across?

If you are ever going to be in the Wimbledon area, PM me and I could do a quick check of your alternator output.

The 096 is likely to be larger Amp Hour capacity than your original battery - but that's not a bad thing.