Warrior193

I thought the hill hold is standard - my Octavia 3 has it (with manual handbrake)

Hello, I see in your original post that you replaced a suspect, 10 year old battery about 2 months ago 'but no coding was done' - are you aware that if (at least) the battery serial number isn't changed in the coding, the battery charging module will not know that a battery change has occurred - the BCM charge-rate on the new battery may be excessively low due to probable faults on old battery. It is also important that the BCM is coded correctly for the battery type (lead-acid, EFB or AGM) Was the replacement battery the same type and capacity as the old one?

'Manufacturer and serial number filed off' - who supplied this part? sounds like a Friday night special!

That doesn't sound right.

The old pollen filter in my 2015 Octavia was dated the same year as the car when I changed it recently - was main dealer serviced for the first 3 years!

Is there a small, round hole in the narrow end? My guess, insulating sleeve for a push-on blade type electrical connector.

Winter tyre compound is normally softer than that used for standard tyres. This is why the wear rate is higher if road temperatures exceed 8 degrees C.

On a wide, flat area (empty car park?) try turning tight circles in both directions at relatively slow speed - often get the CV joint noise on one lock only.

Hi, I run my Alpin5 winters 0.2 bar higher than summer pressures - which I normally set at around the Eco pressure recommendations.

Hi Strasbourg, do you live anywhere near Wimbledon area ? if so I would be willing to run a comparison run with you sometime. I also have a spare SD navigation card we could try - older maps (not updated recently) but still runs correctly.

Odd, I hope you get resolution soon.

Just don't let SWMBO catch you using the kitchen spatula for this!

No, I believe the idea is to get the longest pipe run cleared first to guarantee that fresh fluid is pushed right through the system. The last time I bled brakes it was usual (showing my age!) for the twin circuits to be split front/rear - I understand that now they are split diagonally so that you will still have one front, one rear brake operating in the case of failure.

Truly a case where a picture speaks a thousand words.

Hi, welcome to the forum, I have not bled brakes for a very long time now - but I would suggest you use a pressure type bleeder system (eezibleed or similar) and start on the rear, wheel furthest from the master cylinder, then the other rear wheel, then front wheel furthest from M.C, finishing with wheel nearest M.C. Other members may be able to advise whether better to do with engine running or not - I'd guess engine running for vacuum assistance. Take care that the M.C reservoir is always kept topped up, or you will have to repeat process all over!

I recall that you had to be careful not to slacken off the bleed nipple too far - just enough to allow fluid flow under fairly hard pressure.

As a slight aside, but a similar problem - I once had something like this on my Mk2 Cooper S (my icon) it was a rally car I built for competition in a couple of Internationals in '73. While out on a recce for the Safari Rally in New Caledonia, the engine revs increased without corresponding increase in speed - it turned out that the driveshaft splines had sheared inside the left-hand hub and the shaft 'wound up' the hub nut, after shearing the split-pin, until it was tight enough to lock the hub to the shaft! I drove most of a division (at least 6 special stages) like that before discovering the problem. I didn't have a LSD fitted.

Hopefully a result.

OP has said that present tyres are not directional.

Also from an older generation where -ve earth was just starting to come in as alternators began to replace dynamos (generators) - you had to be careful that the bumpers didn't touch when connecting vehicles of different polarity - metal bumpers - remember them?

Hi, the tyres I was thinking about are the Goodyear Efficientgrip Performance 2 (B/A rating, not AA) Take a look at something like tyre reviews UK 2020 - these rated 2nd after the Continental Premium Contact 6.

+1

Hi, in regards to the tread depth - swap the 5mm rears to the front and the general consensus is put the new tyres on the rear. The reason for this is that it is generally considered safer for the vehicle to understeer (more grip on the rear) Watch out for any rotation direction arrows if the tyres are 'directional' I will leave tyre recommendations to others - although I did see some new ones recently that were rated as A/A (grip/economy) - I would have to look up the brand. I currently run Continental summers and Alpin5s in the winter.

This is part of the reason why I always use a portable power-pack. The integrated compressor is useful for tyre checks too.

I'd guess that once the jump-leads lit up no one was brave enough to grab the hot clamps.