Warrior193

Hi Dave, are you aware that you don't actually have to remove it from the vehicle for charging? - unless the issue is actually getting a power supply to it.

Hi Pete, the 75% SOC indication MAY be misleading, depending on whether the battery was fully charged before testing it - the energy recuperation system on these micro-hybrids will not normally allow the vehicle alternator to charge the battery to 100% - to allow spare capacity in the battery to permit regenerative charging when on overrun coasting or braking. The battery in my 1.4 TSI often gets down to 40-50%, at which point the auto engine stop function ceases - chiefly due to short trips to work being my main mileage. I'd advise getting the existing battery charged and retested before discarding what MAY still be a serviceable unit. If it has actually reached the end of its life, there are several suggestions on the forum for suitable replacements - search battery replacement. Is yours AGM of EFB?

I quite like that in the yellow/gold.

Which you can hide with an engine cover, available on a popular online supplier starting with E (genuine Chinese-source OEM)

I am currently using 215/60/R16s for my winters, summers are standard 205/55/R16 - the 215/60s increase the rolling circumference by approx. 4% over the 205/55 size, which makes my speedo read exactly right when checked against a GPS. Suggesting the speedo reads about 4-5% high on the standard 205/55 size.

I give my Octavia a top-up about every two months during the winter - 18 mile round trip work commute, 3 days a week being my main mileage currently. I use a Ring RSC608 smart charger. Battery SOC usually indicates 40-50% before charging. My battery and alternator were replaced under warranty in the first year-current battery is only an EFB. I intend to replace it with an AGM when it dies - and get the change coded.

Yep, guilty as charged. Came over on my OE in '84, married the girl next door - still here. Born and grew up in Windy City, moved to Taradale in 1980.

Hang in there Lady E.

Hi Banana, love the colour of the 'stang (assuming that's yours's in the Avatar) Do you have a strip near River City now?

+1 for the above - the 'liquid moly' reference rings an alarm bell too, if the oil used has any friction-modifier additive in it I can easily see where gearbox syncro-hub operation could be adversely affected.

I drove a Canada spec. Passat with the 8-speed TQ box in 2019, quite liked it although I've always preferred a manual for normal driving. I think the gap has closed a bit now with reduced engine-braking from the micro-hybrids.

Tena Koe Kiwi, welcome to the forum.

No, recommended method is to connect charger negative only to the flat earth-tag on the firewall bulkhead - same applies when jump-starting, either as donor or recipient.

No, my guess is that the manufacturer just changed materials or made some improvement to it, maybe ongoing R&D?

Hi Dave, welcome to the forum - I'd take a guess that it's just an updated/uprated version of the original.

Hi Jase, charging with battery still connected is fine - charger + to battery post, Charger -ve to tag on firewall bulkhead (important) Note to 1st poster - that battery is pretty well discharged, probably from the short runs. I'd invest in a reasonable smart charger to see if that helps. The automatic stop-start and regenerative battery charging systems really do not like short trips, especially as the alternator doesn't fully charge the battery!

Hi Fox, welcom to the forum. All highly disappointing - make sure you aren't fobbed-off with a base loaner while your Kodiaq is in for repair. Give them one more chance at fixing it properly, then tell them you want to reject.

Crumbs, you must be doing some miles! It takes me about 2 months to get rid of a tank-full on my essential trips to work.

Hi Nag, welcome to the forum , nice car - I probably couldn't resist driving that. rather unfortunate timing, filling up the tank on the old one just before replacing it.

Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF) regeneration, where the fuel system injects fuel into the exhaust system to raise the temperature and clean out the filter.

There wouldn't necessarily be excess play or end float in a damaged wheel bearing early on, you will probably need to rotate it at speed and listen to the hub - preferably with a 'sounding stick' to an ear. What may have happened is one of the ball-race faces got 'dimpled' when you hit the curb - or the same with the CV coupling on that side.

Hi, welcome to the forum. I'd suspect damaged wheel bearing.

Having spent the first half of my life in a country that went fully metric while I was still at school in the 60's - and now living in the UK where speedo, road signs and distances are measured in miles, while fuel is measured in litres - what fuel consumption comparison do other members find convenient to use? I know that you shouldn't mix standards - but I have never liked the 'official' Litres per 100 Km that is often used and I have evolved to using miles per litre.

Hi Knocker, your engine has the cambelt. I believe the switch from chain to belt was when the EA211 engine started production.

Hi Vimal, much of the difference in the pressure plate diaphragm fingers is probably explained if most of the old lining material had worn away. The vibration was probably a bad release bearing. Was there any sign of a break in the old clutch diaphragm?