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Warrior193

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Everything posted by Warrior193

  1. Hi Stu, I strongly recommend the 1.4 TSI, although this would mean a 2015-2016 model. From the comments I have seen (I've never driven a 1.5 TSI) I think the 1.4 is the better engine.
  2. Hi Dean, it would a good idea to 'use up' those old, I assume, summer tyres when you can - it evens-out the wear and will help prevent a good set of tyres going to waste when the date code exceeds the recommended period.
  3. Hi Beak, try Googling 'will they fit' - the calculator on that website will give you all the answers you need. The first thing you will need to match is the pitch-circle diameter (PCD) of the wheel bolts.
  4. Hello Dean, welcome to the forum. I hope it's not too cold up your way, feels like winter is on its way - soon be time to change to winter tyres.
  5. In order. Vespa 150 sport. Austin A40 Cambridge. Morris Mini, 850. Austin Cooper S 1071 Mk 2 (rally car) Ford Cortina 1600 Mk 3 Holden HQ 186 station wagon. Toyota Corolla estate. Suzuki 185 trail. Yamaha 250 trail --------------------------- Volvo 360 GLS. Vauxhall Carlton. Isuzu Trooper. Honda Jazz (Swmbos choice) Octavia Combi Mk 111 (present) - Vehicles 1 - 9 in NZ.
  6. yeah - but this neat cap is a much more elegant solution, not expensive either.
  7. Did it look as if the 'greyed-out' area might have been some sort of military installation?
  8. Agreed, some of the suggestions are very like predictive spelling ones.
  9. Not sure that this change would do what you want - I suspect the taller front sidewalls will just induce more understeer.
  10. Two on mine, I'd be wary of fitting only one due to the possibility of twisting the hood. I have seen other posters considering fitting only one though. I know there's only a single prop on original fit - but that supports the front of the pretty heavy hood.
  11. H C ! those corner entry speeds scared me just watching - and he only got slightly offline once that I saw - instantly corrected. Do you know what the lap time was for that?
  12. +1 for the Febi Bilstein struts (350Nm). I removed the prop and keep it in the storage bay along with the roof bars.
  13. Hi again, just had a quick look at spec. for 1.5 TSI (2017 - ) it looks as if 5W - 30 is the correct spec. (VW 504/507) - I think 0W - 20 is for some of the larger-engined VRSs To be certain, take a look at the engine code label under the carpet near the spare-wheel well - on the label will be a 4 letter code for the engine - type this, along with fuel type and engine size, into any oil supplier website.
  14. Hi, welcome to the forum - shouldn't your model be a MK4 now on a 20 plate?
  15. Would not the new engine data - from which the type could be determined from Skoda - have been updated onto the DVLA website when it was replaced?
  16. I'm sure your credits good for that.
  17. I can see absolutely no reason for them not to make this offer to you.
  18. What! no free coffee for customers - or is their stuff that bad?
  19. I changed both the air and cabin (pollen) filters myself - the date stamps on both filter cartridges indicated that both were original from the factory (2015) and both were well loaded with debris at less than 17000 miles. Although my car was main dealer serviced for the first 3 years, it is obvious that they did not change the cabin filter at 2 years - disappointing - but not too much of a surprise, I guess! It does raise the question - does 'Main Dealer Servicing' really rate the premium charges once out of warranty? I say, in many cases, no.
  20. Is your car a NZ spec.? Often features are standard in one country, optional in others - sometimes also depends on spec. level. Sure it was standard in UK version Octavia SE L.
  21. Often surprising just how 'economical with the truth' (Liar) many dealers can be when attempting to fob off owners questions about something that may be wrong!
  22. I thought the hill hold is standard - my Octavia 3 has it (with manual handbrake)
  23. Hello, I see in your original post that you replaced a suspect, 10 year old battery about 2 months ago 'but no coding was done' - are you aware that if (at least) the battery serial number isn't changed in the coding, the battery charging module will not know that a battery change has occurred - the BCM charge-rate on the new battery may be excessively low due to probable faults on old battery. It is also important that the BCM is coded correctly for the battery type (lead-acid, EFB or AGM) Was the replacement battery the same type and capacity as the old one?
  24. 'Manufacturer and serial number filed off' - who supplied this part? sounds like a Friday night special!

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