Warrior193

I mean what is the alternator output? - measured at the battery terminals with the engine running. A voltage as low as 7.96 is far too low under any conditions - was this while the engine was being cranked? It is little wonder that fault codes (DTCs) are being thrown!

9.6 volts is too low and is a strong indication the battery is failing. What is the charging voltage? Total failure can be sudden and leave you stranded. At the very least, you will be chasing phantom fault warnings - remember what happened to the Boy who called Wolf once too often.

The drain holes are concealed under the seal on the door and are prone to blockage - gently insert fingers between the folds of the seal at the bottom of door and run them along it.

The very first thing to do if odd, and sometimes seemingly random errors are indicated on these vehicles should be to give the battery a through test, including at a high load.

If it is a genuine fault indication, I'd say definitely yes - I'd have thought that driving with any braking system fault that could result in sudden loss of braking force would be a no. I once tried rolling a vehicle down a gentle slope with the engine off, and was shocked at how I literally had to stand on the brake pedal with full weight to get any braking - this was at less than 2MPH!

I believe engine block and head are aluminium. Has the coolant concentration been maintained in service records?

AFAIK, it should not be the case for the Mk4 - but there was an issue with the 'Mit Silicat' insert in the coolant expansion tank of earlier Mk3 models splitting, causing blockages, especially in the heater matrix.

Hello, welcome to the forum. If you have the folding type key fob (like penknife) - flip out the key blade, insert a coin or something similar into slot and twist, battery cover will pop out.

Good morning Giedrius, welcome to the forum. Can you describe what is puzzling you?

Controlling RPM is not important when regenning a GPF - ensure vehicle is in ICE mode, disable coasting, get engine fully up to normal temperature, get up to speed and back-off throttle several times (probably ideal going downhill)

If the expansion vessel is correctly sealed, there should be no (or negligible) evaporation from what is a closed system. Yes, the H2O content of the coolant will boil-off sooner than additives, but should not be lost from the system. I'd suggest checking that the cooling system is actually pressurising (and holding pressure) when it heats up.

^^^See above.

GPF regens differ from DPF and do regens during throttle-off overrun. Get up to speed in ICE mode and allow to run down, best would be on fairly steep down-slope.

Re. the fuel filter, AFAIK that is the case. It does suggest that picking up a load of contaminated fuel could end up being very expensive!

To clarify - the water pump replacement reference is for TDIs only.

I don't understand - 'as soon as it connects the car starts' - as soon as what connects?

Hello Willum, Skoda UK changed their 5-year cambelt change interval about 2 years ago - It is now recommended on mileage only (I believe 120 - 140K miles) There is plenty of discussion on the forum regarding EA211 cambelt changes. Skoda UK were the only manufacturer of VAG that previously mandated a 5-year interval. I believe that the fuel filter on the EA211 series is integrated with the tank fuel pump.

Are you certain that it's the button that's at fault - what are your symptoms? Do the Crossed A symbol and message appear in the instrument cluster when the button is pressed? Intermittent inhibition of stop/start, when required vehicle parameters are normal, is usually caused by low battery SOC, either from short trips, or failing battery.

Either a bad seal around the tyre bead, leaking valve stem or screw/nail in tread. Leak partially re-sealing while running. Jack wheel off ground and check carefully for foreign objects in tyre. Test valve stem with saliva or soapy water for leakage.

I have used chains and found that they gave so much traction that I kept stalling the engine when I was trying to climb up a steep earth bank. Granted, I'd much rather use M&S tyres most of the time. Does the requirement to carry chains simply mean carry - rather than fitting them being compulsory - in which case the snow socks may be sufficient for most conditions.

Probably - what is the tyre size (not the spare) on your Citigo?

Thanks, that second picture is a lot clearer and the oil colour looks better to me.

Hello, welcome to the forum. How long since the last oil change? The oil on the stick looks very light-coloured if it has not been changed very recently. Does the oil on the dip stick smell of fuel? Is the coolant level falling and needing topping up frequently? Does the check engine light extinguish when the engine is running?

Opening hood, then reclosing it without doing anything else will temporarily reset oil warnings for a short period. Reduce engine oil to correct level. Carefully monitor oil and coolant levels at frequent intervals. Check oil for smell of fuel. Check oil for any sign of coolant emulsification.

Hello, welcome to the forum. Are you absolutely certain that there has been no increase in engine sump level from when it was serviced? If there has in fact been some increase in oil level that is not explained by incorrect topping-up, the only answer is a faulty injector leaking fuel into cylinder - or internal coolant leak.