Warrior193

Possibly, but reports I've seen on the forum suggest most common failure is the resistor block.

With regard to the seal block, allow the gas strut to form an impression in the seal when the hood is closed into it, then carefully pare away excess material with a sharp craft knife.

Not sure for the Mk4 - but likely to be very similar (and easy DIY) to MK3, which I did by making up my own kit. Would be even easier when using a prepared kit. The only special tool needed is the correct size spline adaptor for the hood hinge fixing.

The manual will probably give an approximate figure, but depending on engine size, generally it is safe to assume there is about 1/2 litre between min and max line on the stick.

Unless your engine is leaking like the Torrey Canyon, or smoking like an old Russian tank, I'd bet money that your engine was not filled correctly at the last oil service, meaning it has not lost the amount you think it has.

...Or better still, invest in a hydraulic Porta Power pack - around £100 will get you a brand new 12 tonne one.

I recall that during the 1973 Heatway Rally, a competing Skoda was very badly damaged after crashing off a cliff - to get driving again, one end of the wreak was attached to a power pole and the other to a tow truck and pulled hard. To gain only a couple of mm, how about attaching the rear towing eye to something strong and doing a snatch pull?

Grinding away metal from the edge of the door will almost certainly compromise the door - the door edge is folded-over before being spot-welded, any significant grinding of the edge metal will probably cause the panel to separate.

Hello, welcome to the forum. The problem could also be caused by damage or misalignment of the front assist radar sensor. Check for any sign (even very slight) of damage to front grille - or any movement of radar sensor - replacement is often required if the mounting bracket has been broken.

Your blank battery status display is normal - that function was disabled by Skoda some time before MY16 (Sept/Oct 2015) If the battery type was actually changed from AGM to EFB, that change should have been registered (adapted) into the vehicles BCM.

If there's still oil showing on the bottom part of the dipstick, you have not lost all of the sump contents - probably more like a litre, some of which loss might be explained by the engine not being topped up completely during the service. Add about 1/2 litre of the correct grade oil and recheck the level, continue to add small quantities if level is still below maximum, then monitor for correct level frequently to check if oil is being used. Bad idea to rely on idiot lights - there is no substitute for correct engine fluid level checks.

It's not actually a software update - merely a change to the servicing schedule from Fixed (annual servicing) to Variable (mileage based service) Are you sure that the servicing schedule change has been done correctly?

It's to prevent possible damage to engine by overrevving in neutral gear.

Hello, welcome to the forum. I'd suggest first locating and taking a look at the fan speed control resistor. If that's not burnt, take a look at the air quality sensor, which is, I believe, in the airstream supply to the cabin heating system.

Did you go for the 95 or the 115?

@scottpcs what did you decide on in the end?

The VAG (Skoda) indirect TPMS does identify which wheel is affected - however the text message identifying which wheel is only displayed for a very short time, after which, it only displays the general warning. The identifying text is easily missed while driving - but it can be recovered by interrogating the vehicle status menu once you have stopped (or by co-driver) It should be noted that the TPMS will also flag an increase of pressure, possibly caused by tyre overheating.

I suspect that TPMS flags are not permanently logged as DTCs.

I believe all vehicles since around 2015 have had to have TPMS fitted. There are two types of TPMS (direct and indirect) the indirect system operates via the ABS system and compares differing rotational speeds to judge if pressure has been lost and it will indicate which wheel is affected - but the actual text indication (left/right/front/rear) is only displayed on the screen for a few seconds and is easy to miss, but it will be listed in the menu when you interrogate the fault. Only the direct type TPMS will show individual tyre pressures.

I'd suggest getting another DTC scan done - quite likely there is a faulty sensor giving incorrect data to the ECU.

Hello, welcome to the forum. Does it still do this once the engine has warmed up? Does the temperature gauge react to engine temperature changes normally?

You should be aware that the advertised fuel economy figures are not derived from actual driving conditions. Using Cruise Control will not usually give you the best fuel economy.

That answers your question - you have indirect (ABS) type TPMS.

... and water pump should be changed at same time as cambelt on TDIs.

PS - and I believe the fuel filter is integral with the fuel pump.