Warrior193

I think there may have also been issues with stretching cam chains on some EA888s - just done a little checking, the Gen2 engine was revised to Gen3 in 2011. I think if the 1.8 was a very good price, I'd take the risk - but it would have to be in really great condition and I'd want a good long test period before accepting.

Hello, welcome to the forum. Unfortunately, the issue with some EA888 engines wasn't due to lack of regular maintenance, I'm not certain, but 2012 would probably be a Gen2 engine. Some owners appear to have had no issues, but there can be serious issues with excess oil consumption from poor quality piston rings used during manufacture. Take a good read through the forum regarding EA888s - and check the V5 document of the 1.8 for any fairly short ownerships which might indicate a vehicle being quickly passed-on after discovering problems.

Falling to 11.4 volts, your battery SOC is less than 10% and considerably below the 'danger point' of discharge! Get the battery properly tested.

Thanks Paul, sounds like a really useful discovery if it works across other models and years - I'll try it out on our Octavia and Fabia.

12.9 volts on no load does not necessarily mean the battery is OK - after being charged, what does the voltage drop to now while the engine is being cranked? Anything lower than about 10.5 volts while cranking means the battery is failing - the sensors and control modules will certainly malfunction if the supply voltage drops too low at any time.

I'd consider turbo lag to be non-existent in both the 1.0 and 1.4TSIs

The 11.3 volts indicated on the bottom line of that scan report is very likely an indication for the cause of fault. Strongly suggest a proper load test on the battery.

Has the 12volt battery been tested?

Hello, welcome to the forum. Is the headlight switch in the 'Automatic' position? Not sure for the Mk4 - but I seem to recall that the Mk3 requires this for CH/LH to operate.

Hello, welcome to the forum. Does the red indicator led on the key fob flash when a button is pressed? AFAIK, the emergency (physical) key only unlocks the door it is mounted on.

At the very least, the battery is failing. Worth giving it a full charge, if possible, to confirm condition.

Just a note, the terminal voltage will register a little lower than true SOC if not all of the vehicles' control modules are in 'sleep mode' as they will be loading the battery by drawing current.

Considering just how highly hygroscopic brake fluid is, is it not reasonable to think that any moisture would tend to migrate throughout the system?

12 volts is more than 50% discharged - what does the voltage fall to while the engine is being cranked over?

Have you carried out a load test on the battery?

Politely ask your Dealer to demonstrate the location of the key to you. It usually would be located with any wheel tools supplied with the vehicle.

Can you confirm that the revs being limited while driving - or only while in neutral? As Alasdair says, there is a rev limiter while vehicle is in neutral.

How many wire connections are there on the trunk latch? I have seen references, in some models, to the sensor switch being incorporated in the latch itself - are you able to try manually closing the latch while the tailgate is open, to test if the 'gate open' indicator extinguishes then?

I don't know the location of the sensor switch - are there any wire connections on the latch itself? It might need a trawl through a manual unless anther Yeti owner can advise. Do the trunk lights operate correctly - I.e switch off when tailgate closes?

Very possible that the rear-end damage has caused the tailgate sensor to misalign, causing the 'tailgate open' warning. I believe the rear wiper will not operate if the sensor indicates the tailgate is open.

Do you mean the splines on the clutch plate?

Are you using 2025 cells - or are you trying to squeeze 2032s in? It's not unheard-of for even 'new' cells to be faulty.

If the red LED on the fob is not lighting up, the problem will likely be the new batteries - or the battery contacts inside the fob. The LED indicator does not indicate that the car has recognised the fob - it indicates that a signal is being sent to the vehicle. Did you make sure that any protective film on the new batteries were removed?

12.25 volts is approx. 65% SOC - which, with 'Smart' alternator does not necessarily indicate failing battery. Suggest doing a load test to confirm battery condition.

Had the original battery monitoring module gone faulty - or was it replaced simply as a precaution?