Warrior193

Is there any sign of oil leaking from the bottom of the clutch bellhousing?

'The curse' is where as soon you mention an item to be trouble-free, it fails - AKA Sods Law. ☹️

Ask the guy who is claiming probable damage how much oil was recovered when he originally drained the box. Sudden failure is very unlikely unless the gearbox has been making loud and unusual noises for a considerable time, or has been throwing out of gear under acceleration/decelleration.

Definitely get a second opinion! Where is the oil leaking from - engine or gearbox? How or where were you checking oil level? Are there any symptoms from the gearbox at present?

There's nothing serviceable on the AC compressor, apart from actually checking the refrigerant charge - This'll probably trigger 'The Curse', but my 11-year old system is still operating correctly and has never been touched.

Did the AC technician identify (and repair) the refrigerant leak?

I've not worked on a drive hub for a very long time, but yes, with the caliper and everything else off the hub, I would expect it to pull off over the driveshaft splines. Take care with the CV joints.

In my silly youth days I fitted tapered rollers on my rally car build, they used a spacer between the inner and outer races - so they weren't adjustable in the usual sense, adjustment required machining of the spacer.

Just curious - are these wheel bearings tapered rollers - or a type of deep row ball bearing?

I'd be very surprised if the tail lights were different between Combi trim levels of the same model.

Hello, welcome to the forum. Far cheaper and simpler to just keep the keys in a shielding pouch when they're not in use, I'd guess that the steering lock would be the major problem.

Good thing you don't have a pair of Danes!

Check that you hadn't accidently switched on the parking lights - which are activated by moving the indicator stalk up or down when the ignition is switched off.

Unlikely for the spilt fuel to have damaged the AC compressor or shear plate - the aux. belt, possibly - but that would also cause issues with the alternator. When my fuel rail bolts failed, all the fuel was running down the front of the engine, not the offside.

I'd be very surprised if this left-hand steering bias was a Continental 'trait' - on a flat, LHD road this could put the driver into a head-on collision situation.

Request clear confirmation that suspension transit blocks have been removed during PDI.

No, there are plenty of online suppliers of correct card, you will need 32gb for full European maps.

Hello Jon, welcome to the forum. Your Amundsen MIB2 unit requires a genuine VAG SD card for GPS maps - it will not work with a standard SD card.

Musk should have got Acme in.

If the key fob loses sync, it becomes inoperative until it is resynced. I always rotate the spare fobs on both our vehicles, so have never had to do it - but I think I have seen references to some procedure using the emergency lock cylinder to unlock, then starting the vehicle within a short time period.

AFAIK, habitually using only one key fob can lead to issues where the unused fob gets 'out of sync' with the immobiliser rolling code.

Hello, welcome to he forum. Does the temperature gauge indicate any overheating at all? Check the EV cap, it is possible that it is not holding pressure when the coolant is hot - resulting in lower coolant boiling point and loss through overflow. Replacement is not expensive if there's any reason to suspect it.

I tried to remove my A-pillar trim once in an experiment to see if I could run my dashcam lead behind it - ended up chickening out as I just couldn't shift the trim at all!

Hello, welcome to the frum. try scrolling down to that spot/line in the menu and click the enter button - speed adjust function probably toggles between 'active' and 'off/inactive'