Warrior193

There are a number of posts on the forum where either the low-oil has not lit when the level was low - and others where the indicator has lit (or remained lit after topping oil up) when the oil was above the minimum level. All this would strongly suggest that it may be unwise to rely solely on 'modern technology'!

Running out of fuel will be an inconvenience - although I do not rely solely on fuel gauge, but use trip odo as well - running out of oil can often be catastrophic.

I'd suggest that you have the belt and tensioner carefully checked for condition during your next service. If, purely for peace of mind, you do decide to have the belt and tensioner replaced early, make very sure that the place you contract to do the work knows exactly what they are dealing with! I have seen other owners quoting prices for the 1.5TSI being around £1200 - with the 1.4TSI at around £700 to 800.

AFAIK, in a 'non-dusty' environment (which includes UK) the change interval is somewhere around 120 to 140K miles - with no maximum time period stated. I believe that VAG state the belt is 'for engine life' - but of course 'life' could simply be up to the point where the belt fails! Make no mistake, cambelt failure can be catastrophic for the engine, and the belt should be inspected at regular intervals - but it never required replacement at the intervals that Skoda UK were stating two years ago. Previously, Skoda UK, contrary to all other VAG manufacturers, were stating 5 years.

...but completely pointless if its accuracy is in any way suspect.

I would suggest extreme caution if your mechanic is not familiar with your engine type - I did point out in my first reply to you that a cambelt change on your engine type does not impinge on the water pump. It is apparently extremely easy to get the valve timing wrongly set on the EA211 1.5!

...but, apparently, one can be retrofitted.

I would suggest not relying on the sensor - IMO, nothing is a substitute for regular checks of the stick.

I think that will be MIB1 - you can confirm if you check the hardware version in settings.

That is a lot cheaper than the quotes I have seen on here for the 1.5. Critical, check that he can guarantee he has the correct locking tools for the 1.5 - it requires different (and quite expensive) tools than the ones required for the 1.4!

Not sure with the Mk4, but I believe I have seen a reference to removing the trim cover to access it - simpler on the Mk3 as the sensor is exposed.

If OPs VRS is late 2015, it should be MY16 - with MIB2 fitted.

Check your infotainment system for your system type ID - I assume that you have either a Amundsen MIB2, 2.5 or 3 depending on year. Try a search on the forum for updated SD map cards.

Try gently pressing the sensor in all directions to check if there is any movement, and visually check if it looks in any way out of alignment. The mounts appear to be easily damaged in a parking 'nudge' without displaying any obvious damage to grille or bumper.

Hello, welcome to the forum. Probably the easiest way is to simply buy a new SD card with the latest version of maps - especially if you need to increase card capacity to 32G to accommodate full maps. There was a member on the forum who was able to supply - otherwise try the Bay.

Hello, welcome to the forum. Are you aware that Skoda no longer mandate 5-year cambelt change? If you have a TSI, are you aware that it is not necessary to replace water pump when replacing the cambelt?

The ADAS radar will almost certainly require fairly expensive alignment process if the sensor is disturbed in any way.

SWMBOs MY18 Fabia with similar engine (CHZC) had an identical issue in March last year - except it also occasionally went into limp mode. The issue was caused by a faulty wastegate actuator arm - which was fixed with a replacement lever arm kit. DTC was P003A. Kit replacement number was 04C198701D £32.35 from TPS; total repair cost inc. diagnostics, was £293. What is the DTC on yours?

I don't think that Front Assist is a mandatory test item (unlike ABS, lights out or EPC indicators) - although the test technician may incorrectly take the position that any fault indication is a fail.

Possibly because earlier EA888 engines had issues with stretching timing chains and failing chain tensioners - at 2017, OP should have a EA888/3 engine and AFAIK, these particular issues were sorted by then.

How about using a suitable sized 'Bosbag' type of flexible garden bag to keep the cable in when not in use?

For intermittent stop/start operation it is possible that the replacement battery wasn't adapted into the vehicles BCM correctly - or the battery is faulty. Have you checked charging voltage at the battery terminals?

From your post, was the vehicle somewhere near Lawrenny at the time?

It's a really poor idea to rely on 'idiot lights' when it comes to maintaining vital fluid levels in a machine that can destroy itself very rapidly if they are not there.

Try adding more oil to bring the level fully to the top of the indicator line on the stick - it's possible that there's a hysteresis in the switch between warning off/on.