Warrior193

Further research suggests that my original answer regarding OCU backup battery is AI generated and incorrect. Still believe that failing OCU battery (if true) is not contributing to your GPS location error.

According to an online search, VAG OCU does not have a battery - either incorporated or separate - it uses vehicle power supply! If this is true, I'd suggest changing to another Garage.

Is this under warranty - or is it chargeable to you? I'd certainly insist on only the GPS antenna being replaced initially.

When you say 'The fault only comes up when I'm stopped' do you mean when the vehicle is stationary (with engine idling) - or when the engine is shut down?

Is the fan rotor free to turn by hand - or does it feel stiff/seized?

Ah, right! - that will be a heatsink, the resistor will be beneath it

Unable to say what that is, where was it located?

There is a repair kit for the actuator arm for the Mk3 - it seems that there were sufficient failures to warrant making a repair kit. I had SWMBOs Fabia (2018 1.0TSI, CHZC) actuator arm replaced last year - symptoms were MIL & EPC lights on, engine occasionally going into limp mode on hard acceleration. No issues following actuator arm replacement.

Hello, welcome to the forum. Try searching for 'Sealing Cap, coolant tank'. I replaced mine together with the expansion tank - parts were OEM, not Skoda branded. The part (article) number for the cap was 111 023. This was for a MY16 (October 2015) Octavia 1.4TSI.

Try disconnecting the infotainment power for more than 10 mins - perhaps for more like 30. Assuming your system is Amundsen MIB2, I could supply a suitable SD card, but the map content is more than 5 years old.

That may well be the explanation for the ambient lighting not working for that door - although I wouldn't have thought it would affect the RH door - unless that was also damaged in the crash. When did you purchase this vehicle? The simplest way to progress this would probably be for the seller to accept the vehicle back with some compensation paid to you for the inconvenience caused by their fraudulent sale.

Not clear in your original post, but was the LH front door replaced - or just repaired?

Has the infotainment system displayed the 'Insert SD Card' message ever since you bought the vehicle - or is this more recent?

Hello, welcome to the forum. On system boot up, does the infotainment system switch from Nav. to another mode when physically switched?

Hello, welcome to the forum. It does rather sound as if some of your issues are likely to be the result of the crash and subsequent repair. Did the price you paid for this vehicle reflect the fact that it had been repaired after suffering significant damage? I don't know what consumer protection you have in Sweden, but I would investigate what your options are regarding rejection of this vehicle.

Hello, welcome to the forum. I'd suggest the first thing to do is to get the actual oil pressure tested - I'm not sure, but it may be possible to do this by inspecting Live Data (via. VCDS or OBD11) while the engine is running - otherwise it will need an external pressure gauge to be plumbed into an oil gallery.

NB. failing battery resulting in very low voltages CAN cause the alarm to trigger - this is a protection against the alarm being disabled by disconnecting the vehicles battery while the alarm is armed.

Your starter battery is almost certainly faulty, if, as you say it is only 1 year old and you have checked the battery terminals for tightness, I suggest having the battery tested to confirm condition and claiming for replacement on warranty.

At 11 volts, your battery is less than 10% SOC! This will probably be the cause of your random alarm activations. What is the alternator output when the engine is running?

Comment removed as previous post has answered.

Just a warning - you will not get any support from forum members if you do choose to use any pirated device.

A useful tip for checking valve stems I have used for more years than I care to say is to smear a trace of saliva (or soapy water for the fastidious) across the top of the stem to form a film, then leave for a few seconds before replacing the cap.

Possibly, but reports I've seen on the forum suggest most common failure is the resistor block.

With regard to the seal block, allow the gas strut to form an impression in the seal when the hood is closed into it, then carefully pare away excess material with a sharp craft knife.

Not sure for the Mk4 - but likely to be very similar (and easy DIY) to MK3, which I did by making up my own kit. Would be even easier when using a prepared kit. The only special tool needed is the correct size spline adaptor for the hood hinge fixing.