Warrior193

Ah, is she absolutely certain that she filled up with petrol?

Hello, welcome to the forum. Sorry that your wife has run into a problem. Engine starting, then stopping almost immediately can indicate immobiliser operation - but AFAIK would not prevent the starter from cranking the engine. That symptom might indicate a bad connection on the starter circuit. Hope they sort it quickly for her.

Possibly not that one - I'd expect factory towbar prep to incorporate a multi-pin socket and a Can bus module, that loom is possibly tail light wiring or rear parking sensors.

Is that rev limit while driving in gear? There is a rev-limiter that operates while vehicle is in neutral.

SWMBOs Fabia (CHZC) had a similar issue with the MIL and EPC warnings, with turbo actuator fault code logged - fixed with a replacement actuator arm kit. The DTC I read on my own OBD device was P003A, the garage device read P334B00 code.

Hello, welcome to the forum. Does your vehicle go into limp mode when the EPC lights up? Are there any other fault lights? You will need to get the vehicle scanned for any faults (DTCs) recorded. There is no point in trying to guess what might be causing the warning light to appear.

If your bad experience with Group 1 Skoda (Norwich) is typical, perhaps Skoda UK will consider their options when the franchise next comes up for review. Group 1 applying pressure on customers to give top reviews will be a red flag.

Try a few of the smaller engines, the 1.4TSI will give you around the same power as a 2.0TDI and the low-down torque is still pretty impressive - and you should get a true 45+ MPG with those sort of runs.

You could try flagging @pab567 for advice on whether that would be plug and play.

Hello, welcome to the forum. It means that the wiring loom required for towbar electrics has been fitted during assembly.

I'm not sure - but isn't that just the screen unit? AFAIK, the head unit for the MIB2 is in the glove compartment. Do you have any SD card slots in the unit located there?

Fuel calculation average is more accurate with higher figures - but you don't have to completely run the tank down to the reserve - ensure the vehicle is reasonably level each time you fuel, brim the tank to 1st click of pump nozzle shut off, record fuel quantity and odo reading. Do the exact same the next time you fuel. This will give you an accurate fuel use figure and will also allow you to gauge the vehicle fuel computer accuracy.

What could possibly be happening is one (or more) cell has developed a high internal resistance, which will display a fairly reasonable voltage under no load conditions - but will severely restrict current when load is applied. The only way to diagnose this is a proper battery load test - although your cranking voltage test does indicate the battery is either discharged or faulty.

That is an immediate fail - what is the reading with the engine running?

That is atypical for stop/start - the function should be automatically inhibited if the battery SOC is too low to allow a restart.

The primary reason for using isolating transformers is the fact that the supply is completely isolated from any earth (ground) connection - so that even if a connected appliance develops a fault, there is no return path from the appliance to earth. This is also true for Double Insulated appliances.

True that 110 volt shock is a little less likely to be fatal - however the risk of electrical fires is considerably higher due to substantially higher amperages in circuits.

Actually the angle between separate phases is 120 degrees.

Unfortunately I cannot see a replacement engine being an economic solution. The frequent DPF regens, especially given your stated runs, should be investigated - these can certainly be the cause of disappointing fuel consumption - and I wonder if it could also be part of the oil consumption issue. Is there still a window for rejection - or has that now closed, even though this issue was reported fairly early-on in your ownership?

Next time you visit your Stealer, politely ask Vuyani to put that advice in writing. Then show it to the MD.

Not sure for your Fabia, but take a look in your car settings menus for 'Convenience Opening' (Opening and Closing) - on the Amundsen MIB2 system, there is a checkbox for that function.

Thanks for the update, please confirm success when correct switch fitted. Do you know history of when present switch was fitted? I'd suspect a diode to be there as an anti-flyback measure.

OP did post that a 'full engineering inspection' was done and compressions were 'normal' - I'd be a little surprised for that to be the case on a 125K mile, 24 year old engine - especially a G2 EA888!

Hello, welcome to the forum. The safest way is to plug an external 12 volt supply into the permanently live 12 V socket to power the central locking - ensure correct polarity! Centre contact is + Positive. With care, it is reported to be possible to gently bend the hood release lever towards centre of vehicle enough to allow it to clear passenger door and release the hood (not had to try this myself. Yet)

How long had the spark plug that failed been fitted to the engine?