Warrior193

I don't know for the Mk4 - but on the Mk3 I believe it's a double press of the lock button, you could try that.

What does your tyre plate state for that size? Suggest you could try pressures of 2.6bar front, with rears about 0.2bar higher - that would be approx. 0.2bar increase on the fronts from what you have now.

What size wheels and tyres do you have?

What tyre pressures are you running? Especially the fronts.

In that case, it would probably make a pretty decent street cam and would probably not lose anything at the bottom end of rev band - I was unable to find any significant data online for that cam.

A lot depends whether that 280/280 is a race or rally cam - If race, it will be be very unhappy at low revs and will be 'lumpy' at idle (if it will idle at all below 1500rpm) to say the least!

I'd suggest just topping up with correct coolant and monitoring the level closely. Very likely it's been low for quite a while and might not actually be leaking. Really a basic precaution to check engine fluid levels at least weekly.

The various vehicle control modules draw current from the battery while they are active - there is a period after the vehicle is shut down where they continue to draw current, this period can run to at least 15 - 20 minutes and the battery will display a lower voltage while this current is being drawn-off. I have seen references from other members that say disabling the hood (bonnet) lock is necessary - so that it can be opened when accessing the battery terminals - but I simply pop the hood to 1st release, then lock vehicle and leave it for 30 mins or more until I'm sure everything has shut down. That 13.3 volt alternator output looks low - does it rise to around 14.5 volts at higher engine (say 1500rpm) speed?

Try pushing upper edge of the cover inwards. Press outer edge for the front cover.

Mib2 Start Facelift O3. My 2015 Mk3, MY16 (pre-facelift) has MIB2, I believe MIB2 was introduced after MY15.

Welcome to the forum. Your new (to you) vehicle is a micro-hybrid and battery charge state can suffer from persistent short trips as there is a considerable reliance on regenerative charging for the battery (under overrun or braking conditions) Although only 18 months old, it is possible that through being allowed to discharge excessively in past ownership, the battery is faulty. Recommend acquisition of an accurate, high-count DMM for your toolbox (these don't cost much) and arm yourself with some data for possible warranty challenge with the dealer. Check battery voltage with engine off and all control modules in sleep mode. Check what voltage the alternator is outputting to the battery terminals at idle speed. Check what battery voltage drops to when engine is cranked-over.

For 2016, you probably have a MIB2 unit.

In your original post you said the vehicle 'swerves' to left - do you mean it is a sudden, uncontrollable move - or is it a more gradual movement to the left when the steering wheel is released?

See my other comment - I believe you have front/rear pressure bias wrong.

You say the pressures are "OK" but what pressures are you running? Ignore, I see already answered. IMO, you have the pressures back to front - rear pressures should normally be same or higher than fronts.

Unless the 12.081 volts is while the battery is under load, that figure on a EFB is a fraction over 50% SOC - not 73% as stated by your scan. Battery health would appear to be around 30%.

Is your Scoob battery a standard lead-acid - or EFB/AGM?

What charger are you using?

Provided there is no load on the battery, 12.10 volts on a EFB/AGM is less than 60% charged. 10.5 volts on cranking is reasonable given the relatively low SOC. 14.3 volts on charging is a little low - but again may be due to low SOC of battery.

No, look at the top of the terminal itself - I can see it is / 18 (2018)

The visual warning in the instrument cluster should initially display text (with chime) for which wheel is detected - this text disappears after a few seconds, leaving only the general TPMS warning. The actual wheel affected is stored in the information when the data is interrogated via the infotainment system.

As per a post from @silver1011 quite a few years ago, there are at least 9 parameters that must be met for automatic stop-start to be enabled - coolant, ambient and battery temperature are three of them.

There is often a date code stamped on the top of the battery negative terminal (format is WWYY) very possible that your battery is original, therefore around 7 years old. Rather than blindly replacing what is possibly a still serviceable battery, I'd suggest testing it for condition first.

I've had more than a few slow punctures due to nails and screws picked up in treads - typically, my Octavia indirect TPMS does not flag until pressure loss is approx. 0.5 bar (normally run 2.6 fronts, 2.8 rear)

Some Skoda models do have direct TPMS as an cost option - but, AFAIK, the majority use the indirect system via the ABS sensors. Reading the OBD system data may reveal historical DTCs regarding tyre pressure loss, it wont show pressures, but might show a series of events for the affected tyre.