Warrior193

^^^ faulty power supply or ground (earth) connection is a strong possibility - another possibility is a fault with the PCM as opposed to the ECU/ECM. Reflashing the PCM is a suggestion I have seen from a little online research, but I'd suggest checking all control unit connections first.

Engine shutdown while idling I can understand - but I struggle to see how this can be possible while the vehicle is running in gear unless ignition or fuel supply is being lost for significant periods.

Take a very close look at any warranty exclusion clauses before accepting those, if too wide, can often not be worthwhile.

I don't understand, you say the engine cuts out while you are driving - is this while vehicle is in gear?

Hello, welcome to the forum. What gearbox do you have - DSG? What are the error codes when it was scanned for registered faults? Was the refurbed ECUs tested?

I think that 5th and 6th gear on the 6-speed box are both overdrive ratios (taller than 1-1) but the real advantage is the closer-spacing of all ratios. SWMBO has a Mk3 Fabia with the 6-speed 1.0.

AFAIK, the OBD data is from the sensor - but I believe that the temperature gauge can indicate a stabilised reading of 90 deg. C over a fairly wide range of temperatures. The OBD reading is likely to give actual temperatures.

It's not impossible that the new thermostat is faulty - or was damaged while being fitted.

For myself, without taking notice of possible differences in insurance premiums, I'd go for the 115 PS/6 speed for drivability - provided the condition defects do get sorted to your satisfaction - but you may find advantages in the lower powered 95 as a first vehicle for your son.

Does the indicator led on the remote fob light when a button is pressed?

Have you tried replacing the battery?

I'm inclined to think that following economy driving techniques will give substantially better results than changing to different tyres.

'Better' is not necessarily a term I'd use for tyres with a lower rolling resistance - especially if achieved by lower grip in certain conditions. What really should be considered is tyres with the best overall grip for usual driving conditions, combined with acceptable wear, noise and economy - in that order.

It's doubtful that your DSG box will be the cause of disappointing consumption, as it is simply an automated manual - therefore there is no torque-converter slippage. Apart from possibly carrying a little extra weight with the DSG box, theoretically it should be at least as economical as a manual.

One of the advantages of the Kombi variable-height floor is the storage space beneath it in the raised position - roof bars, breaker bar, torque wrench, tow straps, golf umbrella, etc. all live under there.

If that notional 65% battery health condition was with the battery charge state at normal level by the vehicle alternator, I personally would keep the battery in service. You would almost certainly see an improved health percentage if the battery was to be charged fully - as would probably be the case after a decent run.

If the beam in question is the Torsion Beam, it twists to allow suspension movement - jacking in the wrong place risks damaging or bending it, adversely affecting the suspension.

I guess it depends on the price difference between the two types, the AGM is reputed to have considerable performance and life advantages over the EFB. If anything, the AGM should be more suited to relatively infrequent use.

Another very useful item for the tool box is a pair of the threaded rods to initially position the wheel while refitting the bolts.

Important, bolt torque is 120 Nm - NOT 1400!

Hello, welcome to the forum. Possibly a silly question - but have you removed the plastic cover trims from the wheel bolts? A ratchet wrench is definitely not the correct tool to break out wheel bolts! Unless the original bolts have been changed, one bolt per wheel is a security fitting requiring an adaptor to remove. Another possibility is that a tyre gorilla has used hammer gun set to max - a long breaker-bar is useful to break initial hold.

Extremely poor (and risky) for them to have overfilled by that much - how far above max was it after the service?

Hello, not sure if it's a good assumption that your Banner-branded battery is original - I'd agree it to be more likely if it had been a Moll EFB. There will possibly be a date code stamped on the top of the negative terminal, which can confirm age. AGM performance is superior to EFB and is possibly worth the extra cost - but it is even more important that new type is adapted (coded) into the vehicles BCM if changing type (any replacement battery should be adapted anyway)

Is your engine fitted with a normal dip stick - or is it one of these new 'wait until the low oil warning lights up'? - A terrible idea IMO.

I'm not sure I'd trust them much if it's common for them to hand over vehicles without oil even being checked - what else is being skipped? Is there any visible sign of this oil being burnt?