Warrior193

Even a full-on VCDS doesn't cost 'Thousands'!

^^^ This. A very good idea for all modern vehicles. A good OBD II reader will probably cost less than just one diagnostic session. Unfortunately, even very good independent garages will probably not accept an owners claim of faults present without carrying out their own checks - but it's at least a starting point for investigation.

Hello, welcome to the forum. A suitable replacement label should be available from a Skoda parts counter - I had to get one for my Octavia after a panel repair a few years back. Not expensive.

De-ionised water is fine to mix coolant to required strength - but I'd not recommend using it for top up unless in an emergency - and changed for correct coolant ASAP.

Use correct coolant, don't dilute by using plain water to top up.

If your mechanic means that the mounting bracket for the front radar sensor has been displaced or broken in the 'bump' it will require replacement and the radar will almost certainly need to be recalibrated.

Sometimes they are - but not necessarily so.

DTC = Diagnostic Trouble Code. These are accessed by plugging a reader device into the vehicles OBD port - did your dealer do that? If so, did they give you a printed read out of any DTCs recorded? It sounds to me that you need to go to someone competent to get this checked. Has the battery been tested?

... And what were the DTCs found? You haven't said yet what engine you have.

Hello, welcome to the forum. What engine do you have - TSI or TDI? Has the battery been tested? When you get the DTCs scanned - after testing the battery, look for anything relating to intermittent crank or cam position sensor faults.

Definitely would not recommend adding any coolant sealant! - if the loss is only very minor and there are no obvious leaks, I'd suggest topping up with compatible coolant and closely monitoring the level. If only adding a small quantity, safest to top up with concentrate rather than diluted coolant. Do you know if the coolant has ever been replaced? It does have a limited service life for corrosion protection.

Have you had resolution to this yet ? @JackP230725

I would not simply assume this 'losing lock' issue is down to a 'Skoda software' issue if it has developed relatively recently (and not immediately after an update) - the GPS antenna can be subject to failure and I'd strongly suggest at least checking the satellite signals being received. For an Amundsen unit, from the bottom menu bar, select 'View' option - select 'Split-Screen' - select 'Position' option (check box) - Lat/Long, Alt and number of satellite being received will be displayed on split screen. If strong signals from fewer than four satellites are being received, GPS indicated position will be unreliable.

I recall that there is a setting in the GPS menu that allows the number of satellites being tracked to be displayed on the screen - this sub-menu location may vary depending on the system installed, but I will check my Amundsen MIB2 system tomorrow morning. This satellite display would likely give an indication if there is a problem with the antenna.

It should not be beyond a workshops capabilities to test the signal strength from the GPS antenna.

Hello, welcome to the forum. It sounds very like your battery is finished, possibly not even worth having it tested before replacing it. Has that battery lasted 16 years - is there a date stamp on the top of the negative terminal? Does your Mk2 have auto stop/start?

Get the GPS antenna checked.

In the first instance, your radar possibly mistakenly identified the bridge abutments as a bend in the road ahead. In the second, I'd suggest it was operating correctly, as, although only a minor one, there was actually a junction there. Possibly not an issue on motorways due to more open space to either side and no cross-junctions - but maybe your radar is a little oversensitive.

Your charging (engine running) voltage may be a little low and the voltage with the engine off indicates a SOC of around 50% if all control modules were in sleep mode when that reading was taken. With your battery at around 50%, I would expect a charging voltage above 14 volts. This may be part of your problem.

Given the date, time and mileage stamp of the second (B2000 00) fault, I'd just have it cleared and see if it reappears. It may have been due to the battery disconnection. Ditto for the U1123 00 DTC - although this one may indicate an issue with one or more of the ABS wheel sensors if it recurs.

Hello, welcome to the forum. The very first thing you need to do after getting numerous and seemingly random DTCs is test the battery for SOC and health condition.

Suggest addressing the Aux. belt and tensioner issue and see if that could be the cause. Does your automatic stop/start operate correctly? Have you checked the battery voltage?

If your Aux. belt and tensioner are inhibiting correct battery charging - or are allowing battery voltage to drop too low, this could affect the electro-mechanical power steering - but this would also adversely affect starter motor operation, which you do not mention.

Hello, welcome to the forum. That sounds as if you may have a fault with your steering rack or the variable-rate control to it - strongly suggest getting the steering inspected ASAP. The suspected fault will not leave you without any steering at all if the assistance fails completely - but it may well feel like it!

Do you have the headlights actually switched on when you notice this?