Warrior193

Nothing like that in the Mk111 filler, but might be best waiting for confirmation from Mk11 owner before attempting removal.

Hello, welcome to the forum. That does rather look like part of a flexible spout similar to the type fitted to 'dodgy' Jerry cans. I'll just check my Mk111 filler. Looks too high in the filler to be an anti-syphon fitting.

Perhaps, if you had been chancing your licence with a WOT blast around the Road to Hell - then come across its more usual car park conditions, it might be reasonable to allow the engine to idle short period before shutting down, but it's normally not necessary.

= Wide Open Throttle. Though wasn't a typo.

From other posts it appears that OP has Mk3 Superb, 1.4TSI - therefore EA211 with cambelt.

Quite possible, I've seen at least one other reference to hard to start TDI being resolved by replacing a faulty temperature sensor.

I believe that VAG state that this procedure is no longer necessary due to the turbo being water-cooled and the fitting of the auxiliary coolant pump. Probably still not a bad idea to follow the old shutdown procedure for 30 secs or so following a WOT blast though.

Hello, welcome to the forum. I found no specific removal order of the hoses necessary. Tip 1 - Make sure the hose clamps are completely clear of the internal spigot of the air induction ducting, the convoluted hose will come off reasonably easily once you do this. Tip 2 - definitely recommend in investing in a proper set of hose clip pliers as shown in Silver1011s post, they are not expensive and make removing the clips so easy. Get the type that will lock in open position so that the clip can easily be moved up the hose, clear of the clamping area. Tip 3 - for the push-on breather hose, gently twist with your hand before pulling off elbow. Tip 4 - Don't be mislead in thinking that it's only the sprung clips holding the airbox lid to the body, there are screws (pozi-drive I think) hidden on the underside of the airbox too - only accessible from beneath! If you think that's a stupid idea - so do I!

With the original issue of using (or losing) 2 litres of oil in just over 1K miles - while not reporting loss of coolant at the same time, I'd say the possible HG failure is probably a symptom, not the cause. Almost a certainty that, at the very least, the piston oil control rings have failed.

IIRC, there is an auxiliary coolant (not oil) pump to alleviate risk of excess heat transfer to oil on engine shutdown.

Just reflecting on your query about the cambelt - there just might be a date stamp on the outside face along with the manufacturer brand marking.

I wouldn't buy the 'It's NOS from 2015' story if that's what they say - even if they did try it, did they charge you 2015 price? 😆

I'd challenge your garage if they charged you for an air filter change that clearly was not carried out. Is this an official Skoda garage? At the very least, I'd be looking for a trusted independent specialist for any further work.

Practically impossible to tell visually, were you supplied with an itemised invoice for the work? Other than the non-replacement of the air filter, do you have a reason to suspect it wasn't? I had my belt changed at 6 years, although at less than 1/2 your mileage - this was when Skoda UK were still stating replacement at 5 years - the belt and tensioner looked in practically new condition. Apart from the potential fraud, there is no need for particular concern, Skoda UK are now quoting timing belt as 'lifetime' with (I think) replacement at mileage well in excess of 100K miles.

@WorkHorse what was the cause of your damage, collision?

That is what VAG say, although I believe it's too long when you consider how many cubic metres of quite polluted air will be drawn through it in that time. If TSI, do you know if the spark plugs were replaced at 4 years/40k ?

VAG do have what I believe to be an unrealistically long air filter change interval - I made a post quite a few years ago regarding this. I'll need to check what VAG schedule is, but I consider it to be too long.

Is that for the air - or oil filter?

The only sign of oil leakage I can see is around the sump drain plug, the corrosion bubbling visible looks to be surface only, beneath the nominal paint cover and would be nowhere near perforation. The plug leakage could be caused by something as simple as the original seal and plug being reused on a service - or incorrect torquing of the drain plug. If the drain plug threaded insert has been damaged during a service, this might require sump replacement if the leakage is significant.

Well, that appears to be more promising, appreciate it if you keep this updated on final outcome.

Hello, welcome to the forum. There looks to be two cracks that I can see - the obvious one on the mounting eyebolt section, but is there another in the angle where the mount meets the block? I'd say that engine block has received a seriously hard knock and suggest rejection. I recall a taxi driver friend of my father buying a replacement engine, externally it appeared completely unmarked, but turned out to be scrap as internal castings had been shattered by an impact on the crank pully.

I believe there may be some misunderstanding in translation - Brand / manufacturer code is totally unimportant. Fleece/EFB, battery capacity and an alteration to the last digit of the existing battery serial number is the ONLY relevant data when replacing the battery.

Which leads me to think, given the OPs description of the circumstances of the original failure, that the clutch diaphragm failed suddenly - if this was proved to be the case, this would (could) be classed as a mechanical failure - not driver abuse, and perhaps should be covered by the warranty. The subsequent damage to the clutch lining and flywheel caused by the extremely ill advised recommendation by the contracted warranty recovery agent would be, I consider, be a strong case for recovery of, at the very least, a significant part of the damages.

If I understand your question correctly, just leave the vendors code as it was/is.

The actual manufacturers code of the battery is not critical, the only critical information when adapting a new battery to the BCM is type (AGM (fleece) or EFB) capacity (AH) and registering the change by altering the last digit of the existing battery serial number.