Warrior193

Completely agree - the Combi is even worse in rain - to the point of virtually zero rear vision directly behind without the wiper.

The battery may be recoverable - but it will have suffered some damage through the deep discharge. I'd suggest recharging with a suitable charger then a proper condition test before deciding on replacement - remember, any replacement battery will require adaptation ('coding') if your vehicle has smart charging system.

Which voltage means your battery is down to around 35% state of charge (yellow warning level) - even more importantly, your battery voltage will almost certainly be falling to critical level when the starter is operated. At a minimum, your battery requires a full recharge, then a proper test.

It looks like an intentional machining, but does not appear to run beneath the sealing ring - if so, would not affect the seal.

If you consider that a vehicle could be on extended servicing - with the oil changes at up to two years, there is no reason to think that lubricating oil kept in a closed container and stored in reasonable conditions will deteriorate. The main reason for mandating regular oil changes is to remove the contaminants picked up during engine run cycles - it should be remembered that there was once a considerable market in re-refined lubricating oil - where used oil was recycled and resold. The original base lubricant was reported as being essentially unaffected by previous use. Unlike brake fluid, lubricating oil is not hygroscopic while stored after being opened. I used to purchase 2-stroke oil in bulk, and have stored it for at least three years with absolutely no detrimental effect.

I can easily attain 40-45 mpg, with my 1.4TSI Octavia - over a wide mix of driving - you should be able to get significantly better with a diesel! Fuel usage is highly dependant on driving style.

I've seen prominent signs in some workshop mandating all wheel fixings being rechecked by leading hand mechanic before vehicle is released. Perhaps more should do this.

One thing to do is to verify that all the door detection switches are operating correctly, open each door in turn and check that the indicator on the instrument panel responds accordingly.

How long does it take you for the 5 M walk to car after pressing unlock button? Are you are aware that doors will relock if no door is opened approx. 35 secs after unlocking?

High idle for short period after start is normal - appears to be much more noticeable on the 1.0TSI than on my 1.4.

As far as I'm aware, many main Stealers hold a full set of the wheel bolt security keys, a visit to ascertain the correct key, then buy one over the parts counter. No help when the key is missing - but there is a ID letter code stamped into top of VAG security keys. The Ebay option is probably your best (and cheapest) option, suppliers I've seen supply the correct key identified by you sending a clear image of your security wheel bolt face.

Does your wagon have electrically opening hatch - or standard gas struts? If fitted with standard struts, hatch would need to be manually lifted to approx. 1/2 way before gas struts take over.

The real thing to ask though is why the brake pedal is being pressed so hard to bring about these ABS interventions? Unless driving too fast for the existing conditions, encountering unusually slick road conditions (diesel spill, ice, etc) or being suddenly presented with an unexpected hazard, it should not be necessary to press the brake pedal so hard that ABS is triggered.

If the tyre pressures are equally high - and remain within the detection tolerances of the TPMS from when they were last set, raised pressures will not trigger the alarm on a indirect system. Indirect TPMS detects changes relative to the other tyres.

I believe that what JR is saying is ABS will intervene any time the brakes are applied hard to reduce risk of control loss through wheel locking. No matter what speed, the vehicle could be travelling in slippery conditions, which could lead to loss of control through hard brake application without intervention. I've had full ABS mode operate a couple of times at around 10 to 15 MPH when front assist has detected a possible collision risk.

Unfortunately, no help from our 2018 110PS - for confirmation, assuming yours is a RHD vehicle - is this component in the vicinity of the offside engine mount?

Hello, welcome to the forum. I'll take a look at SWMBOs Fabia tomorrow - is this a 95 or 110PS, what year?

I'd lay good odds that you are not the first to get caught on that one.

Indirect TPMS uses signals from the ABS wheel sensors to compare the relative rotation of each wheel - if a tyre loses pressure, its circumference reduces, resulting in a change to its rotational speed in relation to the other wheels. The system can also be triggered by increases in pressure caused by an rise in temperature in one (or more) tyre. Presumably, the system averages-out the normal differences in wheel rotational speeds resulting from cornering.

A thought occurs, it would be worth first just unclipping the sensor plug, removing then refitting - it might be sufficient to clean the connections if that was causing the problem.

One of the main reasons for the smart alternator control is to allow headspace in battery capacity to allow for energy recuperation while braking or in overrun. Together with automatic Stop-Start, this allowed the vehicle to be classed as a micro-hybrid.

Have you tried a different Stealer?

I suspect that this will require an enable code (SWAP?) to be purchased from a Stealer.

@Jus Do you have an update on your brake fault yet?

The contamination looked more like scaling to me, I'd have expected to see noticeable discolouration of the coolant if oil was present. If, on inspection, it is found to be caused by scale, I would strongly recommend a full coolant change.