Warrior193

From my apprenticeship days, carburising is the process of stoving steel in a carbon-rich medium, in the first stage of case hardening. The metal then being hardened in the 2nd stage by heating and quenching.

A reputable AC engineer should not recharge an aircon system before locating and repairing the leak.

How was the refrigerant charge verified?

Hello, welcome to the forum. Check the pollen filter, it may be damp and/or overdue a change. Not sure where this is located on a Mk2 Superb, but it might be behind the glove compartment. Hopefully a Mk2 owner can advise.

The readings will be originating from the sensors and being seen(and responded to) by the ECU. At the very least it would be reasonable to assume that the issue of the cooling fan constantly running is caused by these completely impossible readings.

Unless they are typos, with recorded temperatures above the melting point of steel - or at absolute zero being reported to ECU, it can be no real surprise that the engine will not run.

Unless they are typos, I am still seeing three reported temperatures between 2 and 3 thousand degrees C, and one (heat delivery temperature in cooling system) of minus 273.1 C! If sensors are in fact sending impossible readings such as these to the ECU, they should be looked at.

@SKFABM What country are you in?

Longer runs with the engine fully up to temperature are much better for it, you will be fine.

You wrote that 'this will be its second service' - was the vehicle serviced regularly before you purchased it?

Unless those DTCs are unique to Skoda (unlikely) I don't see any of the three reported having a connection with brake performance. What year is your Fabia? That is a very serious defect, have the brakes been inspected by a competent mechanic? Is the brake fluid level correct? When the brakes do operate correctly, does the pedal feel 'spongy' at all - which feeling then improves if the pedal is pumped?

Hello, welcome to the forum. It will help others if you post engine code and fuel type. Would also help if a description of how these reported faults affect the vehicle (symptoms) is given. A quick search online found - B116829 = Steering angle sensor fault. C102DF5 = Power steering fault (possibly excess resistance to movement). The first two faults may possibly be connected. U042300 = Invalid data from instrument panel control cluster.

So presumably, the internal coil spring is part of a check valve? That's going to need a pair of very long-nose pliers to get out.

Is it possible to post an in-focus, close-up exterior shot of the copper tube with the endoscope?

Nothing like that in the Mk111 filler, but might be best waiting for confirmation from Mk11 owner before attempting removal.

Hello, welcome to the forum. That does rather look like part of a flexible spout similar to the type fitted to 'dodgy' Jerry cans. I'll just check my Mk111 filler. Looks too high in the filler to be an anti-syphon fitting.

Perhaps, if you had been chancing your licence with a WOT blast around the Road to Hell - then come across its more usual car park conditions, it might be reasonable to allow the engine to idle short period before shutting down, but it's normally not necessary.

= Wide Open Throttle. Though wasn't a typo.

From other posts it appears that OP has Mk3 Superb, 1.4TSI - therefore EA211 with cambelt.

Quite possible, I've seen at least one other reference to hard to start TDI being resolved by replacing a faulty temperature sensor.

I believe that VAG state that this procedure is no longer necessary due to the turbo being water-cooled and the fitting of the auxiliary coolant pump. Probably still not a bad idea to follow the old shutdown procedure for 30 secs or so following a WOT blast though.

Hello, welcome to the forum. I found no specific removal order of the hoses necessary. Tip 1 - Make sure the hose clamps are completely clear of the internal spigot of the air induction ducting, the convoluted hose will come off reasonably easily once you do this. Tip 2 - definitely recommend in investing in a proper set of hose clip pliers as shown in Silver1011s post, they are not expensive and make removing the clips so easy. Get the type that will lock in open position so that the clip can easily be moved up the hose, clear of the clamping area. Tip 3 - for the push-on breather hose, gently twist with your hand before pulling off elbow. Tip 4 - Don't be mislead in thinking that it's only the sprung clips holding the airbox lid to the body, there are screws (pozi-drive I think) hidden on the underside of the airbox too - only accessible from beneath! If you think that's a stupid idea - so do I!

With the original issue of using (or losing) 2 litres of oil in just over 1K miles - while not reporting loss of coolant at the same time, I'd say the possible HG failure is probably a symptom, not the cause. Almost a certainty that, at the very least, the piston oil control rings have failed.

IIRC, there is an auxiliary coolant (not oil) pump to alleviate risk of excess heat transfer to oil on engine shutdown.

Just reflecting on your query about the cambelt - there just might be a date stamp on the outside face along with the manufacturer brand marking.