Warrior193

Perhaps it was not necessary to remove the crankshaft sprocket - does the manual specify that the sprocket needs to be removed to replace the cam chain?

The charcoal filter version type do look pretty dark when new. For the price of a new, OEM cabin filter, I cannot see any worth in cleaning an old one.

Hello, welcome to the forum. If you have Williams car products available in Oz, I can recommend their screen wash, either concentrated or premix.

Hello, welcome to the forum. Assuming your profile details are correct, you have a non-ACT engine - that quoted price would be too high even if you had the much more complicated ACT engine. Strongly suggest checking with an independent specialist - or at least a comparison quote from a different Skoda garage. What engine (size and fuel) do you have?

I'd suggest checking if the radiator cooling fan is working first.

Great price for AGM, shame about the cost of adaptation - swings and roundabouts I guess.

A bit steep for less than 10 mins coding, but not a bad price for the battery - was that an EFB or AGM? Did replacing the battery restore CC?

Unless your vehicle is fitted with Stop-Start, a normal, flooded lead-acid battery is usual. There can however be advantages in fitting an EFB or EFB+ battery for improved performance and life.

Are you aware that to do so is illegal in UK?

Is that quoted price tag of £48K a misprint?

18% loss in less than 3 years would be of some concern. Probably impossible to discover- but I wonder if the battery has been abused by constantly charging to 100%?

Very difficult to say without knowing if oil pressure has failed for some reason. Engine can be rebuilt, but labour cost is likely to be fairly high, depending on how much damage has occurred - especially if the reported noise is due to damage caused by lack of lubrication. The red 'Oil Can' warning light should show every time the ignition is switched on - then extinguish almost immediately the engine is started - are you sure that this warning light does not show up? The start up warning light test sequence is critical, anyone driving a vehicle really needs to be aware how important it is to check them every time.

Sorry to hear of your problem. Has the low oil pressure light (red) been seen to be lighting correctly when the ignition is switched on - and going out after the engine starts? Has the car EVER been run with the red oil pressure light showing? Are you in the habit of physically checked the engine oil level on a regular basis?

1.5TSI EA211 & EA211evo cambelt is definitely a dry belt. The change, when specified, is more expensive than the 1.4 (also a dry belt) because there is apparently more work involved with this engine.

Hello, welcome to the forum. You haven't posted your location country - but don't do this if you are in UK.

More likely sequence of events is the alarm activating after some sort of electrical fault dropping the battery voltage. The alarm has its own self-contained battery that will operate the sounder if battery voltage is removed while alarm is set.

Hello, welcome to the forum. Did this problem start shortly after fuelling? If so, fairly rare, but it's possible you have picked up a batch of contaminated fuel.

New battery requires to be adapted (coded) into vehicles BCM if you have automatic idle stop (Stop/Start) and if ANY details of its specification are different to original battery. Coding is also advisable to inform vehicles BCM that battery has been replaced so that any recorded battery defects, that may be limiting charging rate, are deleted.

The response I received from DVSA was dismissive! In the reply I received, they stated there was considered to be no risk of fire from this type of occurrence, due to the lack of any ignition sources!

Agree ^^^ TC boxes have come a very long way since the old GM Hydromatic.

There is an Aisin 8-speed torque converter gearbox used in some markets, including North America and Australia. AFAIK, on 1.4 TSI, non ACT engines.

You should get a DTC scan done to find why this fault is being generated. I understand that this indicated fault remains even though the over-temp sensor was replaced? Unable to see the temperature gauge needle in that image, but looks to below 100 deg.C.

--- But if that was the case, the temperature gauge would indicate higher temperature. OP says that temp gauge stays at 90 deg. Even allowing for widely reported tolerances in gauge reading, if the coolant temperature is rising sufficiently to trigger any secondary warning, it should be noticed on the gauge. @LoadaSkoda are you able to post an image of the temperature warning reported?

That 115PS figure is what is being queried by Otohere - the 1.5TSI is rated at 150PS/148BHP. Or are you saying that there's a new, de-rated engine now being used?

Hello, can you post an image of this 'engine overheat warning' that you are seeing?