Warrior193

Warm start is definitely going to be less stressful on battery than cold, so something else is possibly the cause of slower warm start.

Is your 2014 vehicle fitted with Stop/Start? OBD reader is probably unable to give a battery condition report. Given the way the battery management operates for recuperative charging, consider adding a suitable battery test instrument (and possibly charger) to tool box.

Hello, welcome to the forum. Did you actually have a fire caused by this failure? I filed a report to the DVSA detailing my fault and highlighting the NHTSA recall, they dismissed my report, saying that there was considered to be no fire risk!

What is typical usage of vehicle - is it mostly short trips? Do you know how old the battery is? There is often a date code stamped onto the top of negative terminal - format is WW;YY. Suggest getting a full battery test, there are very reasonably-priced test meters available that will give accurate condition readings - or get a trusted garage to do it, who may charge a significant portion of the cost of having your own device. Outlets providing 'free battery testing' may not always be competent or completely unbiased.

Hello, welcome to the forum. Best advice is to get the battery tested, don't forget that any replacement battery will require adaptation (coding) to the vehicles BCM. Also, get the DTCs (error codes) read from the OBD data port.

Hello, welcome to the forum. That alternator output, if constant, could possibly be an indicator that the battery is struggling to hold charge - depending on whether it drops back to float voltage after replacing usage, etc. shortly after start up. Around 14.7 volts is normal, max. charging voltage for AGM/EFB. One fact I've not often seen mentioned is that a charged secondary battery, in good health, acts like a smoothing capacitor, if battery health is compromised, more electrical interference (noise) from the alternator can be present in the vehicle circuits. Have you had the battery tested?

I'd take a guess that's paint transfer, try a gentle rub with car wash and cleaning pad - or a very gentle wipe with T-cut.

If the EV pictured is the one off your vehicle, it was originally fitted with the Silicate 'teabag' - it is possible that it was previously removed if you aren't original owner. I have not seen any other 'mit silicate' tag apart from the one shown on the EV. If that is your EV, strongly recommend replacement.

Are you sure there's no toe adjustment? What type or rear suspension does the Mk1 vRS have - IRS or torsion bar? If there's truly no adjustment possible, excess inner tread wear could indicate running too low tyre pressure for load (although wear would normally be on inner and outer) - or something's bent.

I'm struggling to see any connection between an indicated under boost issue and faulty glowplugs! What was the DTC that was read?

Bexhillian beat me to it, just came back from the Octavia to check - the satellites in view info in split screen mode is the same as MIB2.

Pedal feel and response improving when it is pumped would strongly suggest air in hydraulic system to me. Does the fluid level in the master cylinder look as if it has dropped since the repair?

Does an aftermarket add-on spoiler like that not mask the high-level brake light?

While not perfect, testing the voltage at the battery terminals while cranking the engine on the starter motor is a reasonable test of battery health. A high-rate discharge is still the best test, but a dedicated battery tester is a relatively inexpensive and extremely useful tool to have.

Fiddling the Odo reading on a trip could affect the range per charge by stating that the vehicle has travelled 76 miles per trip, when it was actually only travelling 25 miles. The inflated cumulative distance would make it appear the vehicle was achieving a much greater distance between charges.

Lawsuit filed on Feb. 7 in California, reported on Newswire, published 9/4/25 - action involves a 2020 model Y.

Apart from the warranty aspect, that would also indicate an inflated range per charge.

Hello, welcome to the forum. Does your Amundsen system use a SD card for the GPS? If so, what is the date of the card?

AFAICS, there is no detriment to using long life oil on annual oil servicing plan - apart from (possibly) slightly increased cost of the product - long life oil will possibly be blended to a higher standard / or contains improved additives to allow for the longer service periods. Provided the oil complies with the required standard, it will be suitable.

Hello, welcome to the forum. Is a misfire code being logged on the ECU? Has replacing the plugs or coil packs been tried? Unless they were tested under load on a dyno, it would be unlikely to be able to produce the same conditions that trigger the misfire.

If it is not actually necessary to disturb or remove the cam sprockets, holding tools are possibly not required so long as the camshafts stay locked in position - but this is a job I would rather pay a tech for. I'll flag this to @ApertureS for advice for you.

Hello, welcome to the forum. From some of the cautionary tales I've seen on here after the camshafts have been allowed to move, even only very slightly, because the cams were not completely locked in position, I'd strongly suggest investing in the correct tools for the job. I've even seen instances where supposed professionals have got it wrong.

So likely just high wear on the front seats then.

A quick question - do the rubber pads on the pedals also appear more worn than you would expect - or even brand new?

How wide is the base (furthest from tow ball) of the triangle? - purely a guess, but I'd suggest it is a guide for trailer, when reversing, to prevent jack-knifing.