Warrior193

... and slightly lower emissions.

I've just used Mannol 5W-30 for my recent oil service - it was still certified as VW504-507.

@Cubbs Did you get a resolution to your problem?

My moneys on Duck 2 being a mallard.

Note, it is possible that when the coolant level falls to a point where the expansion bottle is completely empty, air pockets can become trapped in the coolant passages of the engine - if this is the case, it may take some time for the trapped air to be purged from the system, the coolant level will drop as this air gets purged, mimicking a leak.

It should not use (lose) coolant at all - as I suggested earlier, monitor the coolant level regularly from now on to check if it is losing it. Take it back to garage if it is.

From the post, it reads as if it was the coolant that had the 700ml top up.

Low annual distances travelled (or regular short trips) make regular oil servicing even more important - you should consider planning your servicing on an annual basis.

Has the coolant level fallen since you topped up 700ml? Strongly advise you to monitor both oil and coolant levels more frequently - the oil usage is probably normal given the distance travelled, but the coolant really needs to be kept a very close eye on for some time until you can confirm there is no leakage. Why is there so long between oil services - do you plan one soon? It is a big mistake to simply rely on warning lights instead of doing regular engine checks.

Are you seriously saying that the oil in your engine has not been checked for 26000 Km? Yes it is normal for an ICE engine to consume a small amount of lubricating oil - but, at that distance, I'd have thought the oil would have been due for a change in any case! For your ghost coolant level warning, did you visually check the coolant level yourself before taking it to the service centre? Was the level below the minimum level marked on the side of the expansion tank?

A different model, but still indirect TPMS - my Octavia does identify which wheel has triggered the warning - but the wheel ID message disappears very shortly after the warning chime - leaving just the general tyre pressure loss warning message.

Do tell, what did they do to p155 you off so much? Name and shame.

I'm not sure of the MkIV tank capacity, but I'd suggest putting in 10 litres, you could try leaving the ignition on so that you are able to read the gauge while filling. Annoying, but it will be much cheaper to err on the slightly generous side (to the rental co) - the penalty 'refuelling' charges will result in probably the most expensive fuel anywhere!

Completely agree - the Combi is even worse in rain - to the point of virtually zero rear vision directly behind without the wiper.

The battery may be recoverable - but it will have suffered some damage through the deep discharge. I'd suggest recharging with a suitable charger then a proper condition test before deciding on replacement - remember, any replacement battery will require adaptation ('coding') if your vehicle has smart charging system.

Which voltage means your battery is down to around 35% state of charge (yellow warning level) - even more importantly, your battery voltage will almost certainly be falling to critical level when the starter is operated. At a minimum, your battery requires a full recharge, then a proper test.

It looks like an intentional machining, but does not appear to run beneath the sealing ring - if so, would not affect the seal.

If you consider that a vehicle could be on extended servicing - with the oil changes at up to two years, there is no reason to think that lubricating oil kept in a closed container and stored in reasonable conditions will deteriorate. The main reason for mandating regular oil changes is to remove the contaminants picked up during engine run cycles - it should be remembered that there was once a considerable market in re-refined lubricating oil - where used oil was recycled and resold. The original base lubricant was reported as being essentially unaffected by previous use. Unlike brake fluid, lubricating oil is not hygroscopic while stored after being opened. I used to purchase 2-stroke oil in bulk, and have stored it for at least three years with absolutely no detrimental effect.

I can easily attain 40-45 mpg, with my 1.4TSI Octavia - over a wide mix of driving - you should be able to get significantly better with a diesel! Fuel usage is highly dependant on driving style.

I've seen prominent signs in some workshop mandating all wheel fixings being rechecked by leading hand mechanic before vehicle is released. Perhaps more should do this.

One thing to do is to verify that all the door detection switches are operating correctly, open each door in turn and check that the indicator on the instrument panel responds accordingly.

How long does it take you for the 5 M walk to car after pressing unlock button? Are you are aware that doors will relock if no door is opened approx. 35 secs after unlocking?

High idle for short period after start is normal - appears to be much more noticeable on the 1.0TSI than on my 1.4.

As far as I'm aware, many main Stealers hold a full set of the wheel bolt security keys, a visit to ascertain the correct key, then buy one over the parts counter. No help when the key is missing - but there is a ID letter code stamped into top of VAG security keys. The Ebay option is probably your best (and cheapest) option, suppliers I've seen supply the correct key identified by you sending a clear image of your security wheel bolt face.

Does your wagon have electrically opening hatch - or standard gas struts? If fitted with standard struts, hatch would need to be manually lifted to approx. 1/2 way before gas struts take over.