Warrior193

The overnight voltage drop you are currently seeing will be normal - especially given the current battery is faulty. Fit the new battery, carry out correct adaptation (coding) if required - E.G if vehicle has 'smart' alternator, then test again to check if there is any parasitic drain - which I think will be unlikely. Provided the new battery is not discharged below 30% - below approx. 11.8 V for AGM/EFB (or 11.6 V for standard L.A battery) and the battery is recharged immediately after discharge, the battery will suffer no damage.

I'd suggest trying that procedure on a longish down hill section. Get the engine fully up to temperature first. The GPF regen should happen in normal driving - but it appears that frequent slow driving in traffic can inhibit it. Apparently some makes are able to do both passive and active GPF regens - but I haven't found if VAG vehicles can do this.

Hello, welcome to the forum. Have you used the correct method? - it sounds as if you have confused DPF and GPF regen methods. GPF regeneration is done on closed throttle engine overrun.

A battery in good condition will be 75% charged at 12.4 VDC - agree, the only reliable way to test a battery is by imposing a known load and measuring the voltage drop. OP appears to be chasing a possibly phantom parasitic load, while admitting the battery is 'goosed'

Important, the control modules will not go into sleep mode with a door open. You have repeated that the vehicle struggles to start when the battery voltage drops to 12.4 volts - the battery is still 75% charged at that voltage! Unless either the starter, the wiring connections to it - or the battery has a fault, there is no reason the engine shouldn't crank at normal speed - even down to around 12.0 volts (50%) It is critical to know what the voltage falls to when the starter is operated, I suspect that the voltage is dropping critically low due to a battery fault.

Flag to @ApertureS Can you advise?

How old is the battery? If you have confirmed that the battery is 'goosed' you are possibly looking in the wrong direction by looking for parasitic draw. How was the battery tested? The overnight terminal voltage drop you are seeing is probably no more than you could expect - especially with a suspect battery.

I stand to be corrected but believe that is referred to as a 'low level' camera along with rain and automatic headlight sensor - AFAIK it is incompatible for TSR.

AFAIK, park mode can be sufficient to prevent control modules from entering sleep mode - it is on my Octavia.

OP says dashcam is left on in park mode - this will draw a small but constant current.

A little hard to read that gauge due to scale and parallax - but that looks about 1 to 1.5 bar. Another post on this forum, for a 2012 1.8t gives 1.8 bar on low setting and 3.3 bar on high.

I think I have seen a figure quoted of around 2 to 3 bar at high rate if fitted with dual pressure oil pump, bit I don't know if that applies to 1.8

Flickering Xenon (HID) can be lamp at end of life or faulty ballast.

Important note, leaving the dashcam on can prevent control modules from entering sleep mode when the vehicle attempts to shut down - combined with short trips, this can result in low battery SOC. Does your automatic idle stop operate normally?

Can you post another image with the extraneous bits on a sheet of white paper?

Hello, welcome to the forum. I'd consider a failed oil pump as the first suspect, depending on how long the engine was run after the oil pressure failure indicator lit, it is likely that your engine has suffered significant damage. All vehicle instructions I have seen mandate immediate engine stop and recovery if oil pressure fails. Highly probable that turbo seizure is the result of oil pressure failure - not vice-versa.

Can you post what type of headlight you have fitted? If lamp is faulty, very unlikely to be still under warranty after 3 years.

Be aware that the majority of 'reconditioned' engines being touted will be no such thing - almost invariably pulled out of a wreak, steam-cleaned and plonked on a pallet (pallet optional)

Is the infotainment system in the centre of the dash panel the original, factory-fitted system? I have seen reports from a number of owners who have experienced parasitic battery drain issues when after market systems had been installed.

Could you be more specific - was this a dedicated alternator output test device?

@Cherry_140 Have you succeeded in removing the offending object?

It is likely that your cooling system has an airlock, this may eventually clear by itself, in which case the coolant will require topping up - or it may require to have a recommended bleeding process of the cooling system carried out. NB. this air purging process should have been carried out by the mechanics who replaced the EGR.

Recheck that the alternator (battery) indicator light operates correctly - on with ignition, extinguishes immediately on engine start.

13.8 volts, dropping to 12.9 volts on load appears to be a reasonable output for the alternator - what indication was given for assuming a charging fault?

Looking at the drawing, it appears to be just a cap, there does not appear to be anything actually on the lower part of the shift tower retained by it.