Warrior193

Issues not very likely to be connected for problems 1 & 3. Two things to check first - - Check if coolant expansion tank is "Mit Silicat" type. It is possible that the heater matrix and/or radiator has become partially blocked due to known issue with coolant additive bag. - Get the battery properly tested, at 10 years, it may well be nearing end of life.

An important issue with the indirect TPMS system most commonly used by Skoda and others, is that it may never flag pressure loss before tyres fall to unsafe levels if the loss is roughly equal over the set. It is a fact that ALL tyres will lose pressure to some extent over time.

I really worry when I hear how infrequently some drivers physically check tyre pressures - and all fluid levels!

Relative tyre pressures are very dependant on vehicle load and speed, but should match on the same axle - any tyre pressure label fitted on a vehicle is only a recommendation, not a legal requirement. IIRC, maximum pressure permitted is usually moulded into the sidewalls.

I'd suggest getting the oil pressure tested.

Hi, I will check my MY16 (late 2015) Octavia shortly - I don't remember if there is an option in the infotainment system. Just checked, go to "Vehicle settings" scroll down to "Wipers & mirrors" there are check-boxes for enabling functions - this is for Amundsen MIB2 system, but other infotainment systems should be similar.

Overtightened wheel bolts, courtesy of gorillas with hammer guns set to max, easily fixed with breaker bar and socket in tool kit.

I have (rather unfairly, I think) been considered to be a little conservative at times, probably the ex-scout in me - E.g. carry a spare wheel, portable boost starter and a few roadside tools, etc. in all my vehicles.

Unlikely to fail during your upcoming trip, it may even give it a chance to recover somewhat. Do get it properly tested after the trip though.

If replacement clutch is necessary, definitely worth doing the DMF while the box is out.

Possibly your problem is clutch contamination, causing drag on the lining. If this is the case, replacement of the clutch will probably be required. Have you tried deliberately slipping the clutch a little during a fairly quick start? - Don't overdo it.

I'd suggest getting the battery tested - preferably a high-rate discharge test. If your runs are mostly relatively short distances, the battery management system will typically restrict battery charge state to around 75%, reserving the remaining approx. 25% capacity for energy recuperation. The slightly rougher idling could possibly be the alternator being loaded-up in an attempt to raise battery charge state.

Hello, welcome to the forum. Does the clutch release any better if you pump the pedal a couple of times before attempting to engage 1st gear? - If so, it could simply need the clutch to be bled.

Hello, welcome to the forum. New battery will require adaption (coding) to the vehicle, especially if type or capacity is different to original - this battery adaption is done via VCDS (or similar device) plugged into the OBD port. It is not necessary to maintain the 12 volt supply during a battery disconnection, the DTC faults generated when the new battery is connected will clear after a short drive.

That's a pretty impressive hike on the price of gold!

Possibly leaking injectors?

Hello, welcome to the forum. Do you have what could possibly be the only Skoda in the State - or do you have one of the other brands From the VAG family?

It sounds as if you have a competent dealership workshop, what did the relay unit and fitting cost?

I asked because I'm not aware if the original 1.5TSI issues were ever properly addressed by VAG - rather like the continuing issues with the MkIV.

Note that there are plenty of good quality, OEM replacement expansion tanks available for less than half that price.

Is this a manual or DSG gearbox?

Hello, welcome to the forum. There is another cause for 'sloshing' sounds when braking - check the lower door seals, especially on the rear doors. The drain holes in the lower seal can block, resulting in a surprising amount of water being trapped in the doors. Gently run fingers along and between the seal lips and see if this is the case.

Was the 1.5 so-called 'Fix' usually more successful after a certain year?

Unable to say for the 1.5TSI - but I'd be very surprised if it was supposed to be set significantly higher than the 600 - 750 rpm on my 1.4.

IIRC, there may be insufficient adjustment in the suspension components if the subframe is disturbed.