Warrior193

From what I have seen reported for TDIs, the EGR is a possibility for coolant loss.

Hello Ingper, that looks to be a leak of Adblu fluid from the injection connection.

Hello, welcome to the forum. I specifically optioned the 16s when I bought my Octavia, but the difference in ride between 16s and 17s is not likely to be worth the expense of the change. The consensus appears to be smaller wheel gives a more comfortable ride (through taller sidewalls) - but the overall tyre diameter of the two sizes is essentially the same, so fuel economy should not be affected.

IIRC, the 0W oils were introduced solely for slightly reduced emission readings (through lower engine drag) use of the previous spec oils was permitted.

Hello DC, welcome to the forum. Are you aware of the well documented issues with the EA888 engine? Have you driven it long enough to see if it is using engine oil?

As several posters have pointed out, your engine will be 1.0 (not 1.1TSI) Is there any misfiring when you get this problem? I would not absolutely rely on scheduled servicing actually being carried out fully.

Some of those wires show clear damage to the external insulation, exposing the possibly intact inner cores - your issue may be with wiring that has breaks in the inner cores, causing a intermittent connection. Copper wiring often has a tendency to work-harden when repeatedly flexed, the inner core then can break, sometimes without any obvious sign of damage to the outer insulation. A wiring colour code list will help in identifying the wires to look for.

A fair point - but if you think about it, wiring connected to any door flexes every time it is opened, regardless of mirror position.

I'd be more than a little concerned about the short time the 4th owner kept this vehicle after the presumed post repair sale early this year.

It would have been helpful to mention asking price in OP. Still too much for a repaired cat S IMO, my very low miles, non-cat MY16 Octavia is supposedly worth less than £8k

£13,600 for a 2015 repaired cat S? No way.

If you have the 3 button key fob, pressing the middle button unlocks trunk/boot without unfolding the mirrors.

Full disclosure - no experience with Bi-xenon, but I'd say beam pattern 1 - number 2 looks less focused and with too much scatter between steps. Lower step (on left) possibly too high as well.

For battery test, battery must be fully charged before test. Is this the original battery? There should be a 4-digit date stamp on the top of the battery negative terminal (MMYY)

If that 11.7 volts was read at battery terminals, I would suggest getting the battery properly tested. At that voltage, battery is almost completely discharged.

Removing the magnets and using the wipers in service position to hold the cover down is probably a better position.

I use one for the windscreen only, it's the quilted, dual-purpose type with reflective silver one side for use in sun. Certainly keep the screen clear. Never had an issue with water ingress where it traps inside the front doors. Full car cap could be useful if not needed to be secured under vehicle.

Hi, not the exact product I got, but yes, anything similar should work. Note to self, time to apply some to Octavia's doors.

The only thing I have seen on this forum that produced rev restriction without a fault indication was a faulty fuel pump.

Have you tried applying a door seal rejuvenator product to them? I have seen references to a German one (Gummi Pflege) Also helps prevent door freezing to door frame seals in winter.

Would I be correct in thinking that engine will not rev beyond around 2000rpm while in gear? I don't know what revs are limited to in limp mode, but odd that there is no fault indicated. I think you will need to get a full DTC scan to see what is happening. @ApertureS - any ideas?

Good afternoon Nick, welcome to the forum. To assist others to start diagnosing your fault, can you confirm that the vehicle will not exceed 20mph in any gear? Is this DSG or manual gearbox? What does the engine rev to in neutral gear? Do you know if crash sensor was reset, or was it not activated? Were any airbags deployed? I assume not as you don't mention them.

Was that battery EFB, EFB+ or AGM? Pretty good price anyway - great price if AGM.

You say are filling 'almost all the way to the top' is this correct? if so there will be insufficient air space in the EV - fluids are effectively incompressible, so coolant will be ejected via the relief valve as it heats up and expands.

I'd suggest inspecting the steering angle sensor - I was originally going to suggest the NSF ABS sensor, but you don't mention TPMS or ABS faults. Do you have dashcam footage of the incident?