Warrior193

How bad is this misfire? Not sure how advisable it will be to continue driving for too long if mis is noticeable.

Guard against possibly voiding any warranty by having work carried out by anyone else.

Is this an 'approved Skoda' warranty? How long have you owned it? How many times has it been back to their workshop for the misfire?

To confirm condition of suspect coil pack, it could be moved to a different cylinder - if misfire moves to that cylinder, that's the problem! NB. it is strongly recommended to use a coil pack extractor. Edit - ^^^^ what Gaz said.

Very much doubt that using V power will make any difference - in any case, poor fuel would affect all cylinders. Did they actually have the coil packs tested off the engine?

Suggest checking cylinder 4 coil pack, if that checks out OK, possibly a faulty injector.

I cannot see dirty fuel being a cause of misfire in just the one cylinder. Was the misfire there before the plugs were changed?

Hello, welcome to the forum. I think that is for the left/right park light - to display side lights on just one side. That function is normally found on the indicator stalk. To confirm, does the stalk move up/down as well as forward/back?

@daveo138 Just a note, yours is actually EFB - not AGM. Still not doing too badly at 10 years old though.

Have you used the proper SD card? - Amundsen MIB2 will only accept Skoda/VAG SD card.

There is usually a date stamp into the top face of the negative terminal, format is WWYY. Stamp matching production year would indicate battery is probably original.

I'm not familiar with this idea of deleting the oil level dipstick - is there an electronic 'button press' to check oil level now - or are you supposed to wait until the Impending Doom light flashes up?

Hello, welcome to the forum. That looks like a intermittent electrical connection, either the main connections, or behind the instrument panel. Has the battery been properly tested?

That almost certainly indicates a clutch position sensor fault - the vehicle should always require the clutch pedal to be depressed before allowing engine start. A message should appear on instrument cluster if clutch pedal is up and start should be inhibited. From past references on this and other forums, clutch inhibit switch/sensor has been fitted to Skodas since at least 2010.

Not particularly likely, AFAIK, Eco mode simply lowers change-up point of gearbox (lower revs) and limits throttle response. Interrupted DPF regens and shorter trip distances are more likely to be the cause - although it sounds like your issue of increasing oil level may not be as much as you originally thought, and may actually just be a oversensitive high level sensor.

Hello, welcome to the forum. Has the battery failed, have you tested battery voltage or checked for loose battery terminal?

Hello, welcome to the forum. The only 6M gearbox version of the Fabia I am aware of is the Mk3 1.0TSI 110PS. The 1.0TSI 95PS is a 5-speed - both are 3 cylinder engines. Not sure if the earlier 1.2TSIs also came with an M6 gearbox, but I don't think so.

Assuming the meter used is accurate, dropping to below 8.0 volts on start is a confirmation your battery is failing, very likely a decent battery test meter will show high internal resistance along with seriously reduced capacity. If replacing battery, ensure the new one is correctly adapted (coded) into the vehicles BCM - either OBD (with necessary functions) or VCDS will be able to do adaptation.

Easy to tell the difference between belts - timing belt has toothed segments on underside; Aux belt has multiple Vs.

I would not think that to be likely.

Mine was - from AGM to a Moll EFB, along with the alternator.

According to VAG website, your engine is EA288, DFGA. All images I see have the cam belt covered. A strong probability that your belt cover was not refitted during the recent replacement - very suspicious if they didn't mention its absence during the work.

Hello, welcome to the forum. I'm pretty certain there should always be a cam belt cover fitted. Can you post your engine code (can be found as 3 or 4 letters at start of engine number on V5 doc) The mention of replacing cam belt at the same time as the water pump was changed suggests a TDI - is that right?

Do both dry and wet compression tests - this will help to narrow down where possible problem lies.

What was the reason for vehicle not being recovered to home address?