Warrior193

I tend to live with it unless targeted by flying muck spreaders. I avoid automated car washes but will give the Octavia a hose-down, then a bucket wash, pacing myself, maybe three times a year.

If you do a parts number search, it may tell you in the description. Is your tank marked with anything other than the coolant spec - Eg. G13? If your EV does have a silica insert, it would most likely be the later type, which is reported to be a tubular plastic capsule - which has not been reported to suffer from the same problem as the earlier Mit Silicat 'teabag'. If this the case, it is likely to be visible when the EV cap is removed.

I finally found a VAG data sheet that gives a figure of 1.6 bar (160kpa) relative boost for the 1.0TSI 110PS. Still searching for turbo details, but as the charge pressure is controlled by an electronic bypass flap, it suggests to me that the turbo vanes aren't variable.

I was hoping that someone here had experienced this fault and found an easy/cheap fix for it.

Update, cleared the P003A fault code and took it out for a hot run (not saying where, Officer 😇) EPC and MIL light stayed off on a full-throttle run, taking it to the red line through the gears for 17 miles after getting oil up to 90*. Then took it up a hill, redlining in 2nd - ditto. Turned-off into a side-turning for return home and the EPC lit up as I was doing 3-point turn! - no MIL light. Cleared fault and drove a mile towards home, EPC came up again when I did a hard accelerate in 2nd. A second, slower run a little later gave real time monitoring boost pressure of 220kpa absolute on hard throttle in lower gears (approx. 99kpa static, therefore about 1.2 bar boost) can anyone tell if this figure is in the ballpark? VAG data for the CHZC appears to imply that the turbo is not variable-vane type - can anyone confirm this is correct?

Scan tool is Autophix OM126P. Can do live data. 1 x DTC logged (twice) is P003A - turbocharger boost control A position exceeded learning limit. No other DTCs logged. I haven't cleared the fault yet, as it is in for a diagnostic check on Friday. No recent work under hood, apart from usual oil and fluid checks since oil service last June. Battery is original EFB and standing voltage is a little over 70% (12.35V) vehicle has not done much running since Christmas - although I wouldn't expect the smart alternator to maintain charge level much higher than it is.

2018 Fabia 1.0 TSI 110PS, 24K miles. Wife came home this afternoon and reported amber EPC light on, which resets when engine is shut down then restarted. Went out to check, EPC lights up on switch-on, extinguishes on engine start - so far, so good; started engine, no warning light but EPC warning lit up immediately when engine throttled-up in neutral, light resets if engine shut down then restarted. Took it for a test drive, MIL and EPC lights both came up straight away, engine appears to be running completely normally, no misfires. I have not plugged in OBD reader for DTCs yet - will do that tomorrow if weather permits. Car is booked in for diagnostic on Friday, I'm thinking faulty MAF sensor might be a possibility - but does anyone have thoughts on possible causes?

OP might have been very very lucky in avoiding valve damage.

I'm wondering if that's a misprint - the length of the hatch trunk is shown as being 34mm longer than the combi.

A BEM code is not necessary, a new serial number can be created by simply changing the last digit of the original number. This will serve to inform the BCM the battery has been replaced and clear any logged battery defects that may be limiting alternator charging rate.

Perhaps it was not necessary to remove the crankshaft sprocket - does the manual specify that the sprocket needs to be removed to replace the cam chain?

The charcoal filter version type do look pretty dark when new. For the price of a new, OEM cabin filter, I cannot see any worth in cleaning an old one.

Hello, welcome to the forum. If you have Williams car products available in Oz, I can recommend their screen wash, either concentrated or premix.

Hello, welcome to the forum. Assuming your profile details are correct, you have a non-ACT engine - that quoted price would be too high even if you had the much more complicated ACT engine. Strongly suggest checking with an independent specialist - or at least a comparison quote from a different Skoda garage. What engine (size and fuel) do you have?

I'd suggest checking if the radiator cooling fan is working first.

Great price for AGM, shame about the cost of adaptation - swings and roundabouts I guess.

A bit steep for less than 10 mins coding, but not a bad price for the battery - was that an EFB or AGM? Did replacing the battery restore CC?

Unless your vehicle is fitted with Stop-Start, a normal, flooded lead-acid battery is usual. There can however be advantages in fitting an EFB or EFB+ battery for improved performance and life.

Are you aware that to do so is illegal in UK?

Is that quoted price tag of £48K a misprint?

18% loss in less than 3 years would be of some concern. Probably impossible to discover- but I wonder if the battery has been abused by constantly charging to 100%?

Very difficult to say without knowing if oil pressure has failed for some reason. Engine can be rebuilt, but labour cost is likely to be fairly high, depending on how much damage has occurred - especially if the reported noise is due to damage caused by lack of lubrication. The red 'Oil Can' warning light should show every time the ignition is switched on - then extinguish almost immediately the engine is started - are you sure that this warning light does not show up? The start up warning light test sequence is critical, anyone driving a vehicle really needs to be aware how important it is to check them every time.

Sorry to hear of your problem. Has the low oil pressure light (red) been seen to be lighting correctly when the ignition is switched on - and going out after the engine starts? Has the car EVER been run with the red oil pressure light showing? Are you in the habit of physically checked the engine oil level on a regular basis?

1.5TSI EA211 & EA211evo cambelt is definitely a dry belt. The change, when specified, is more expensive than the 1.4 (also a dry belt) because there is apparently more work involved with this engine.

Hello, welcome to the forum. You haven't posted your location country - but don't do this if you are in UK.