Warrior193

Interesting that the recess in the dash appears to exactly match the switch bezel - is there normally some other switch in that position?

It sounds as if your energy provider is throttling-back your charging rate at some point (load clipping), then failing to restore normal charge rate after event. What time of night has this been happening? Ask Ovo reason why this might be occurring - and if your charging protocol can be changed.

Unfortunately that will not make any difference - as suggested above, get the battery tested first. I assume this 'shuddering' is while engine is running in gear - not while shutting down?

From the limited information I have found for the P0400 (injector4) fault, it appears faulty wiring (ground return) can be possible cause - perhaps possible the ECM fault is also connected. It appears that the injectors are fed a live 12V supply, with the trigger going to ground to operate it.

When this breakdown happened, did the 'check engine' (MIL) indicator light up also?

As far as I'm aware, the glow plugs are only heating on a start up, especially on cold start - they should not affect engine operation once it is running, I think you should be looking at the injector fault for your breakdown.

Hello Alonso, welcome to the forum. Most likely the connector failure was caused by nothing more than a loose female socket - or dirty male pin.

I've always been a fan of NGK plugs from my karting days - with US made Champion plugs second. Home-grown (NZ) Champions were always prone to chronic fouling.

Are those consumption figures you mention litres per 100KM?

Welcome to the forum. The engine has a 'soft limiter' - If you are attempting to rev engine while not in gear, this will limit engine speed - or are you having this issue while driving? What gearbox does your car have?

I'm still really impressed with my PFL (MY16) 1.4 TSI.

Are you certain you don't have a charge cooler? AFAIK, modern turbos usually have one.

Hello Eddie, welcome to the forum. That symbol is, as you thought, an indication that you may be too close to the vehicle in front - this indication is from the front assist radar system, the same sensor that performs emergency avoidance braking if the system thinks a collision is imminent. Retrofitting ACC when you have standard CC will require (at least) a replacement control stalk - and possibly other hardware changes.

Can you post a picture showing deformation of the springs?

The 'Drop test' (usually called high rate discharge test) your garage mentioned will be good enough for a reasonable condition assessment - but needs to be done on a fully charged battery to be accurate.

If your car has automatic idle stop and the original battery was EFB (likely) your battery management needs to be adapted (coded) to the new battery. When fitted with a smart alternator, the BMS will control the alternator to charge the battery to around 75% - the remaining capacity will be via energy recuperative charging.

I'd take a guess at using 'Dynamic' - which I'd think will reduce assistance as vehicle speed increases. I know almost everyone does it to an extent - but it's not especially good to wind on wheel lock while the vehicle is stationary.

It is due to the tyre tread pattern rather that the wheel rim itself - asymmetric tyres must be rotated in the correct direction.

My original AGM failed within 1 year - symptom was non-functioning stop/start, dealer eventually diagnosed faulty alternator and replaced both under warranty. The replacement EFB is still showing at least 85% health on test after 8 years and I always use idle stop apart from stops of less than around 10 secs.

Of course, those recorded faults may be from when the old battery was disconnected - simply clearing them after the battery is tested may resolve it.

^^^^ - And check battery connections are clean and tight.

When did this vehicle last have an oil (or any) service?

Issues not very likely to be connected for problems 1 & 3. Two things to check first - - Check if coolant expansion tank is "Mit Silicat" type. It is possible that the heater matrix and/or radiator has become partially blocked due to known issue with coolant additive bag. - Get the battery properly tested, at 10 years, it may well be nearing end of life.

An important issue with the indirect TPMS system most commonly used by Skoda and others, is that it may never flag pressure loss before tyres fall to unsafe levels if the loss is roughly equal over the set. It is a fact that ALL tyres will lose pressure to some extent over time.

I really worry when I hear how infrequently some drivers physically check tyre pressures - and all fluid levels!