Warrior193

The chemical reaction occurs in the engine, the fuel tank simply stores the potential energy.

Allow me a little semantics - but all secondary batteries (including lead-acid) don't really 'store' energy as such - they generate energy by a reversable chemical reaction. These types of battery will all exhibit a degree of self-discharge, even on open circuit, in addition to any quiescent connected load.

My 8 year old Moll EFB still testing at 80% - despite stop/start always being used would suggest that this function does not give the battery a 'beating' An idling engine produces emissions - for zero MPG.

Crumbs, who'd have believed it? Glad the boy wasn't hurt.

There is the option of charging through the 12 volt socket, with a suitable adaptor, if unable to open the hood for access to the battery.

I have ramps similar to the red (angle iron) ones - but without the jack-pads. To prevent the front splitter hitting the ramp, I made up a couple of blocks from decking planks to reduce the angle as you get onto the bottom of the ramp. Works for the rear (combi) too.

Good morning Simon, connection order of charger clamps is not important - but ensure negative clamp is to the flat tag on the firewall bulkhead - not the battery terminal, make sure the connection is good by scraping the clamp against the tag a little. Absolutely no harm in starting the engine, rather than pushing, to move the vehicle back a bit. Agreed, the positioning of the hood release on RHD vehicles is a serious fail by VAG.

Not sure I understand - is that the available cranking Amps? If so battery is down more than 25%. What was the state of charge during that test result? Battery condition state may be recoverable, but I'd strongly suggest that could be cause of your fault indications. The battery voltage will be dropping to very low levels when cranking the engine, the onboard computers can throw double 6s when that happens. Are you able to give the manufacture date of the battery - usually a 4-digit code stamped on the top of the negative terminal.

Bought my replacement set in March this year. Take a look at Car Mat Co - Custom fit, 4 x colours in carpet, 1 in rubber. I got the black carpet with grey trim.

I recently got a new set (front and rear) from Amazon for my Octavia - very reasonable price and seem to be good quality. Will look up supplier soon.

Definitely CAN be caused by a failing battery. Just how bad was the battery condition test report?

Hello Simon, I hope you are recovering well from your operation. 4 months sitting idle not ideal for battery life, especially as temperatures are dropping. Are you able to borrow a charger from anywhere? Otherwise, worth considering purchasing a reasonable smart charger - occasional use of one can usefully extend battery life.

The battery is the first thing to check when getting seemingly random fault warnings on these vehicles. You should get the battery tested. Does stop/start work?

I'm certain that the Bolero does not support Navigation - that SD card is for the MIB2 Amundsen.

Hello Shelbs, welcome to the forum. What are the issues you have?

I don't believe that unit can support Satellite Navigation, I think it might be a Bolero unit.

If you have ACC, there should be an optical sensor (for the rain sensor (RHLS)) plus a camera.

Is the black exhaust smoke the meth injection kicking in - or just excess fuelling?

My understanding is that as well as the radar sensor in the front grill, ACC uses a specialist camera fitted to the screen behind the rear-view mirror.

Hello George, why did the glass 'repair' guy/gal hit it with the centre punch - did he/she consider the damage beyond repair? You may need to get the ACC sensor recalibrated at an independent specialist (preferred option) or dealer.

I repeat my suggestion to get a compression test done on the engine.

If CC is operating correctly, almost certainly rules out ABS sensor faults - therefore probably faults caused by failing battery, or bad terminal connections.

Do any fault lights show up at all before it dumps coolant? If you can get a DTC scan done, fault code P261A is one I have seen reported for aux. cooling pump issues.

First check would be to get battery properly tested - preferably with a load test. Another possible cause of those DTCs is a failed ABS wheel sensor - does your cruise control work?

EV = expansion vessel (tank) Fan kicking in when parking up is probably normal - either running a DPF regen - or simply calling for cooling because of vehicle stopping (no forward air flow) TSIs have an electric, auxiliary pump to circulate coolant for short period after vehicle stop, unsure if TDIs have the same, but probably - if aux. pump is not running when required, it is likely that coolant temperature (and pressure) will initially rise on engine shutdown.