Warrior193

I agree that the pressure drop is substantial - the point I was attempting to make was that the pressure loss is not obvious with a visual check, and solely relying on the indirect TPMS to confirm tyre pressures is ill-advised.

I gather that there are two engine power options - 60PS & 70PS. Figures on Parkers for fuel use are 47 to 55 MPG. The manufactures quoted figures are often very difficult to attain - so I'd think your 46.8 is not too bad for 'normal' driving.

Hello Ollie, welcome to the forum. Not familiar with the CityGo - what engine and fuel?

With experience of more than 6 slow punctures, my TPMS consistently flags at approx. 0.5 bar drop. At that pressure (on 16s) the excess sidewall bulge is not that obvious, so better to check pressures with a reliable gauge.

@Occy245 Please don't let one member with a very poor attitude deter you from partaking in the forum.

The 'Ignore' button works ok though.

Reciprocating and rotary parts will start failing almost immediately once lubrication system fails.

I should edit my post to say 'Crank Engine' instead of 'Start ICE' - but too late for edit.

That's not the way the BCM works, maintaining the power only prevents transient faults being generated when the battery is reconnected, which will all clear themselves after a short drive anyway - any battery faults that may be restricting charge from the alternator to the old battery will NOT be cleared by maintaining power while the battery is replaced - nor will any material changes to battery type or capacity be registered to the BCM.

@PetrolDave Can you confirm my belief that stop/start unavailable is not an MOT fail?

Hello, welcome to the forum. I recall the stop/start warning being worded as -'Stop-Start unavailable' ,or something similar - is that the warning you get? AFAIK - (and I stand to be corrected) that is not an MOT failure point. A few questions - - Was the new battery adapted (coded) to the vehicle when it was replaced? - Was the alternator tested at the time for correct output? - Was the correct type of battery fitted?

OP explained originally that he didn't want to further deplete any remaining charge by starting engine while he was unable to drive vehicle to recharge.

Plus, if you don't have memory seats, the mirror dipped position can be a little random.

An extremely expensive experience. No engine should ever be run if an oil pressure fault is indicated and no fault warning should ever be ignored. Serious damage will result from running, even for only a very short distance.

I'd be more than a little sceptical about that claim, it goes directly against what I have read on other posts on ACC vehicle windscreen replacements.

I recall seeing mention of the requirement to change the clockspring - I'll flag this up for @ApertureS to see.

I would be praying that any missing parts haven't managed to find their way into the engine.

Do you mean unlock with the emergency lock?

It is probably not necessary to do that if the spare key has been accepted to unlock the car, I'd have thought the rolling code would have updated on unlocking.

Yes, I believe that this is the recommended practice.

My understanding is that the keyfob sends a rolling code signal - meaning that a different code is sent each time the vehicle is unlocked. AFAIK, the receiver has a list of expected codes to recognise - or anticipate in subsequent code sequences, which change every time the RX & TX communicate. It is apparently possible for the transmitter and receiver codes to become mis-matched if the transmitter sends more than a certain number of codes while not in range of the receiver.

The reason for your battery failing when you left the door open, interior lights off, will be because the various electronic modules etc. were prevented from going into 'sleep mode' - the resultant current draw is much higher then.

@beneix I can see your point if, in fact, the 12 volt battery is not (or rarely) used for actually starting the ICE. Is this actually the case? There is possibly still an argument for using at least an EFB for the longer inherent lifespan.

In answer to the question does the alternator generate the energy? - no, it doesn't directly - it acts to reverse the chemical reaction the battery cells undergo on discharge. The chemical composition of the cell plates is changed between charged and discharged state.

But to get back on topic, the OPs battery is very likely to lose up to 25% of initial charge, purely from self-discharge over four months - add to that the quiescent load to the various electronic modules (quite possibly the same) and bearing in mind the battery probably only being 75-80% charged, maximum, (due to the smart alternator control) at the start of the layup, it is conceivable that the SOC could drop to around 30%, even with a battery in perfect condition. Lead acid battery lifespan can be significantly reduced if kept at a low state of charge.