Warrior193

Incorrect positioning of the rotor shouldn't directly affect the ignition timing - but you may possibly get a weaker spark as the gap increases from the rotor to the required spark lead contact. Ideally, the points should open while the rotor arm is closest to the external plug contact, but there will a fair degree of tolerance because rotor contacts are normally curved.

To ask clarification again - is the symbol you refer to the shoe/foot within a circle, surrounded by two brake shoes, all in red?

@PetrolDave is it possible for you to post an image of the A5 camera circa MY16?

I can only see one symbol illuminated in the image you posted. Would be better if you describe it - or draw a highlight ring on the image.

What I meant by my question was - is the handbrake operated with a normal lever - or is it foot-operated? What does the 'not fully illuminated' symbol look like?

The only indication I can see in that image is the red symbol and would more suggest to me something to do with a foot-operated brake system - is there anything unusual with the handbrake on the Mk2?

I strongly suspect that if you take the engine output to anywhere near the figures you first suggested, you will very soon be looking for a replacement engine.

It's not unheard-of for new batteries to fail prematurely, definitely the first thing you need to do is carry out a load test on the battery. If you do not have a load tester available, the easiest way to do this is with a fast-response DMM on the battery terminals while someone cranks the engine. The near-fully charged battery dropping to around 8.0 VDC while only loaded with ancillaries and glow-plugs strongly suggests your battery is faulty.

Hello, welcome to the forum. I cannot see that an attempt to increase the power of a 20 year old engine by more than 60% will end well - especially on a low budget!

^^^ True for batteries with removeable cell plugs - pretty rare now, mostly sealed type.

What voltage are you reading on the meter at the terminals when the alternator is operating?

Not necessarily, the bad cell will still be in circuit (series), but drop its voltage when its on load.

Happy New Year. I'd suggest first checking the battery terminals for tightness, then having the battery load tested - dropping to 8 volts strongly suggests a faulty cell in the battery.

I assume that you actually meant you changed the settings FROM 70 AH to 90 AH for the new battery?

Not sure if it applies to vehicles with ACC - but do you get the 'Following too Close' symbol that appears in the trip meter display when you close up the gap to the vehicle ahead?

Interesting - does that Synchronous Compensator operate in the same manner as a Rotary UPS?

Could it be that you were already reacting to events at the time? clutch, steering and throttle inputs will all override FA.

Hello, welcome to the forum. What leads you to think that Front Assist isn't working on your vehicle? If Front Assist is inoperative for any reason, ACC will be de-activated as FA sensor is critical to its operation.

@LukeWarmWorm What was the cost of the misfuelling specialist callout?

I don't drive a diesel, but isn't there a start delay holdoff to allow the glow plugs to reach ignition temperature?

Be very cautious if you intend to use 'One Click' coding - it can result in unwanted, and difficult (or impossible) to reverse changes. You would be strongly advised to download all existing settings before making ANY changes.

Hello Ian, welcome to the forum. It is highly unlikely that the ESC error indication will be the cause of the failure of the engine turning over and is probably coincidental. Has the vehicle been scanned for any DTCs? Are the glow plugs working correctly? Did you have the alternator output tested?

Hello Luke, welcome to the forum. If the tank and fuel lines were flushed, I'd be inclined to leave the filter as it is - unless the diesel was badly contaminated too. Any remaining diesel fuel will be flushed out of the filter almost immediately. Petrol through a diesel fuel pump might have been a little worse though, but I'd still think the possibility of damage to be pretty low. I think I've seen references to the filter being integral with the pump.

...or would demand unreasonable price to do.

Does this 'whining' noise happen just as the clutch starts to engage - I.e. before the vehicle actually starts to move?