Warrior193

Age of battery can often be determined from 4 number code stamped into the top of the battery negative terminal (WWYY) E.g. code 3519 is week 35 2019.

I read the post as saying - original tensioner failed, then the replacement tensioner failed within a week - Is that correct @Dannh ?

Were the camshafts checked, could they be seized?

Is this for LH drive with the hood release on the drivers side?

I assume that you have tested the fuse? You could try using a pin (to connect test meter) piercing the wire insulation near the connector to test for 12 volts, this would also serve to prove the column switch.

The other two wiper connections will be for the park position switch (allowing the wiper arm to return to park position at switch off) I'd suggest checking continuity of all connections on the connector plug.

That is a surprising level of error for the fuel computer - my indicated use when compared against actual calculated use is usually around 2 to 3 MPG lower (computer reads optimistic)

Geeze, I hope not!

That is incorrect - seriously consider using a service provider that knows these vehicles!

^^^^ The seal I was referring to was the drive shaft one - or is this for an electric pump?

As the DSG is actually an automated manual gearbox - not a TC automatic, I don't see any reason why it cannot be towed, provided neutral gear can be selected.

Hello Paul, welcome to the forum. Certainly worth a try, do the pump seals and bearings look OK? Simply fitting a new pump without addressing the seal face would probably not work anyway.

Hello, welcome to the forum. Are you aware that airbag faults are the latching type? - meaning that even if the original fault that caused the fault code has been fixed, the code will remain until it is cleared by using a device capable of doing this.

System "Load too High" is just the way VAG flag an indication that battery voltage (SOC) might be lower than normal - this can be caused by frequent short trips, a failing battery, or a faulty charging system.

It isn't better performance I'm after - just the best, most reliable plug. In the past, I have found significant differences in plug reliability, even from the same brand, depending on where they were manufactured. Defaulted to a preference for NGK - although I used Golden Lodge annular type on my Cooper S.

What will you do when it fails the MOT and you are unable to drive it?

^^^ for the Mk3, but I wasn't sure if that was the case for Mk2 AC system.

1.4, 150 TSI, CZDA. Thinking about getting replacement set of plugs shortly, favouring NGK over Bosch from long past experiences. Looking at NGK PKER 7A8EGS / PZKER 7A8EGS - or alternative (possible upgrade?) IKER 7A8EGS. It appears that the upgrade? IKER has two side electrodes, and presumably iridium centre electrode. Does anyone here have recommendations or suggestions? Thanks.

One issue with the ice scraper location is that the fuel flap can freeze shut in severe icy conditions - good idea to have a spare in the cabin.

Was the replacement battery correctly adapted (coded) to the vehicle when it was replaced? Have you checked battery SOC?

That is most likely because the sensors are not working!

According to Parkers, the 2014 Octavia Elegance is fitted with parking sensors - if yours are not operating and you want them to, I suggest taking your car to someone competent to find out what is wrong and fix them.

The reversing sensors do not require a separate switch - they operate when reverse gear is selected (and the display shows on the centre screen)

To avoid issues caused by air locks in the cooling system, I understand that, as a minimum, vacuum filling is required.

No, just your stealer trying it on with an upsell. In fact I'm pretty sure I've seen VAG advice to not do engine flushes when carrying out oil changes unless change periods have been neglected.