Warrior193

A device that plugs into the OBD port and can access, re-programme, or operate the various electronic modules on a vehicle.

No matter which is driving side of road, excessive light scatter is a serious hazard for oncoming traffic.

I seem to recall reading that the ABS block needs to be operated via VCDS or similar device when bleeding the brakes, was this done?

If the headlight reflectors are not designed for led you may find that what you propose is not legal - there is a serious risk of blinding oncoming traffic from excess light scatter. Have you checked?

Too be honest, the only time I could think this might be useful is when some moron parks their enormous SUV hard up against the drivers side door.

Hello, have you checked the cabin filter? This filter can be the source of bad odours in the AC system.

Hello Luke, welcome to the forum. I have flagged this to @pab567 for advice, but I wouldn't be surprised if the 7.5A fuse in position 11 is the correct one.

I meant testing the brake lights a number of times while stationary - should give a reasonable indication the switch is operating correctly, or not.

Although you say your battery was replaced about 6 months ago, check battery SOC as a first move - preferably get battery tested.

Have you checked if the brake lights work when pedal pressed?

Is this a reference to regenerative braking not being available?

As I don't use diesel, I don't know the chemical composition of Adblu. Certainly worth trying warm to medium hot water first. Keep away from any wiring connections.

Hello, welcome to the forum. That external crystallising would suggest a leakage of the Adblu to me, get it cleaned off and check sealing.

I'd be a little wary of the low-priced Rybo ones - they may be ok, but seem far too cheap to be of reasonable quality. I didn't see any reference to a security key either - or are you not bothered with this?

I agree that the DSG operation in manual is counter-intuitive - when I was buying my Octavia I considered a DSG but did not like the way VAG have set this up.

They at least had the advantage of never going wrong, if you discounted driver error. The first automatic chokes were however a very different proposition - to the point where manual retrofit kits were fairly common.

Beyond my knowledge unfortunately - I'll flag this up to @ApertureS to see if he can help. Have you checked the battery?

I'd suspect a faulty ignition switch.

If the radiator has also become blocked, the coolant loss could be the result from overheating - has this been happening?

Hello, welcome to the forum. Is this a normal steering lock - or is it keyless ignition? If normal lock, the steering lock function will be mechanical only, so will have no relation to electrical issues. If normal ignition lock, does the ignition key turn in the lock to all positions? Has the battery been tested?

Not normally necessary to use one.

What was original cause of issue - stretched chain, worn sprockets or tensioner failure?

Further to my above post, if the head is currently off the engine, careful inspection of the valves and seats should establish if damage has occurred - might be well worth replacing valves and lapping seats while the head is off anyway.

The compression test will require the engine to be turned at a normal cranking speed.

Bent valves and low compression?