Warrior193

Hello Eddie, welcome to the forum. That symbol is, as you thought, an indication that you may be too close to the vehicle in front - this indication is from the front assist radar system, the same sensor that performs emergency avoidance braking if the system thinks a collision is imminent. Retrofitting ACC when you have standard CC will require (at least) a replacement control stalk - and possibly other hardware changes.

Can you post a picture showing deformation of the springs?

The 'Drop test' (usually called high rate discharge test) your garage mentioned will be good enough for a reasonable condition assessment - but needs to be done on a fully charged battery to be accurate.

If your car has automatic idle stop and the original battery was EFB (likely) your battery management needs to be adapted (coded) to the new battery. When fitted with a smart alternator, the BMS will control the alternator to charge the battery to around 75% - the remaining capacity will be via energy recuperative charging.

I'd take a guess at using 'Dynamic' - which I'd think will reduce assistance as vehicle speed increases. I know almost everyone does it to an extent - but it's not especially good to wind on wheel lock while the vehicle is stationary.

It is due to the tyre tread pattern rather that the wheel rim itself - asymmetric tyres must be rotated in the correct direction.

My original AGM failed within 1 year - symptom was non-functioning stop/start, dealer eventually diagnosed faulty alternator and replaced both under warranty. The replacement EFB is still showing at least 85% health on test after 8 years and I always use idle stop apart from stops of less than around 10 secs.

Of course, those recorded faults may be from when the old battery was disconnected - simply clearing them after the battery is tested may resolve it.

^^^^ - And check battery connections are clean and tight.

When did this vehicle last have an oil (or any) service?

Issues not very likely to be connected for problems 1 & 3. Two things to check first - - Check if coolant expansion tank is "Mit Silicat" type. It is possible that the heater matrix and/or radiator has become partially blocked due to known issue with coolant additive bag. - Get the battery properly tested, at 10 years, it may well be nearing end of life.

An important issue with the indirect TPMS system most commonly used by Skoda and others, is that it may never flag pressure loss before tyres fall to unsafe levels if the loss is roughly equal over the set. It is a fact that ALL tyres will lose pressure to some extent over time.

I really worry when I hear how infrequently some drivers physically check tyre pressures - and all fluid levels!

Relative tyre pressures are very dependant on vehicle load and speed, but should match on the same axle - any tyre pressure label fitted on a vehicle is only a recommendation, not a legal requirement. IIRC, maximum pressure permitted is usually moulded into the sidewalls.

I'd suggest getting the oil pressure tested.

Hi, I will check my MY16 (late 2015) Octavia shortly - I don't remember if there is an option in the infotainment system. Just checked, go to "Vehicle settings" scroll down to "Wipers & mirrors" there are check-boxes for enabling functions - this is for Amundsen MIB2 system, but other infotainment systems should be similar.

Overtightened wheel bolts, courtesy of gorillas with hammer guns set to max, easily fixed with breaker bar and socket in tool kit.

I have (rather unfairly, I think) been considered to be a little conservative at times, probably the ex-scout in me - E.g. carry a spare wheel, portable boost starter and a few roadside tools, etc. in all my vehicles.

Unlikely to fail during your upcoming trip, it may even give it a chance to recover somewhat. Do get it properly tested after the trip though.

If replacement clutch is necessary, definitely worth doing the DMF while the box is out.

Possibly your problem is clutch contamination, causing drag on the lining. If this is the case, replacement of the clutch will probably be required. Have you tried deliberately slipping the clutch a little during a fairly quick start? - Don't overdo it.

I'd suggest getting the battery tested - preferably a high-rate discharge test. If your runs are mostly relatively short distances, the battery management system will typically restrict battery charge state to around 75%, reserving the remaining approx. 25% capacity for energy recuperation. The slightly rougher idling could possibly be the alternator being loaded-up in an attempt to raise battery charge state.

Hello, welcome to the forum. Does the clutch release any better if you pump the pedal a couple of times before attempting to engage 1st gear? - If so, it could simply need the clutch to be bled.

Hello, welcome to the forum. New battery will require adaption (coding) to the vehicle, especially if type or capacity is different to original - this battery adaption is done via VCDS (or similar device) plugged into the OBD port. It is not necessary to maintain the 12 volt supply during a battery disconnection, the DTC faults generated when the new battery is connected will clear after a short drive.

That's a pretty impressive hike on the price of gold!