Warrior193

You might find it quicker and more comfortable to adapt your driving style - consistent late braking is almost certainly not the fastest way around a corner, why not try - set up the car on the run into the corner, follow the line through it (within your lane) and then accelerate out?

Harder pad compound delays the onset of brake fade (where you run out of braking force due to overheating) They also have the property that once the brake material has been correctly conditioned, the pad (or lining) maintains a fade resistant surface when consistently used firmly.

Or indicator stalk UP if parked facing traffic - although that is not legal at night in UK.

I'm still struggling to understand how fitting soft pads help braking with your normal driving style - if, as you say, you are 'heavy' on braking, how do brake pads that are more prone to fade help? Wouldn't harder pads (similar to the old DS11 compound) work better for your style of driving?

I can't see that flex cable standing up to traffic, bet it's not fed off an RCCB either.

I strongly suggest that you get the battery load tested. Multiple fault codes is often an indication of a failing battery.

Welcome to the forum. It seems a bit of a stretch for the humidity sensor to be linked with front assist - but who can tell with all the control modules on a vehicle these days?

Hello, welcome to the forum. Does the drivers door lock when the internal lock button on the console is pressed?

Hello, welcome to the forum. I'm a little curious - you say that your usual driving style is 'heavy' on the brakes and normally switch to softer pads - don't you find the softer pads suffer more from brake fade? Road behaviour of your roos sound much the same as sheep on back-country roads in NZ.

How old was the TDI at 93K. Was there much damage to the top end?

The very valid point that unless the LED replacement has been fully tested and certified as being compliant, there is a distinct possibility of dazzling other road users. Certification is critical, I can't imagine anyone would countenance purchasing, say, a child's toy that may have been coated with leaded paint - or an item that contained asbestos.

In which case, the manufacturer should not have an issue in obtaining the necessary certification for them - have they done that?

That would be almost impossible to quantify IMO, but I'd think that the interval difference would be minimal compared to the belt running all the time. I can't see the inertial strain of the cam drive on start-up being significant.

Hello Simon, welcome to the forum. I'd think it can be summed up in one word - very - although my Octavia is the 1.4 version.

I believe the issue is that reflectors and lenses designed for incandescent bulbs are not correctly focused for LEDs - which will often cause unacceptable light scatter/glare.

I believe that something like this was reported recently - I think a snap-ring locating an inner driveshaft had been damaged.

Ask for independent garage recommendations from members in your area.

Hello, are you aware that VAG have revised the cambelt replacement interval? - IIRC, it is no longer fixed at 5 years. There is extensive information on other sections of the forum.

I'd take a guess that it's a fuel pump driven off the camshaft. Just checked on Google - it's the high pressure injection pump.

Cheapest would probably be a breakers. Nut cover removal tool etc. can be sourced from Amazon or the 'Bay. Rather than packing an impact wrench, why not get a breaker bar and socket - or one of the extending type wheel braces?

Actual manufacturer of battery is not critical information - EFB or AGM, capacity in AHs, and a minor change to the existing serial number sequence (to tell battery monitoring unit that the battery has been replaced) are all that is necessary.

OP had lost a key - so no key available to swap out parts.

Hello, I'd suggest pulling the plugs and check their condition and gap first. Use a proper coil pack extractor so as to not damage them when removing.

I seem to recall that @skodud ended up rejecting the vehicle.

All speedometers in UK have a statutory requirement to overread - you will be perfectly OK to use the 50 KPH mark on the dial.