Warrior193

^^^^ Plus, do not allow them to fob you off - inform them that you are aware there is in fact a TPI issued for this exact fault.

There's only three places the oil can be going - onto the ground, out the crankcase breather - or out the exhaust. Is it calling for frequent DPF regens? If it's burning that quantity of oil, there should be a significant amount of smoke, especially on the overrun. I'd suggest getting a compression test done.

It appears that yours is the EA189 engine - which was the one involved in Dieselgate - but I've not been able to find any particular issues with oil consumption with this engine. How many miles has it done?

If there errors being sent from one of the ABS wheel sensors, that will raise an ABS fault. Do you have automatic idle stop (stop/start) and/or cruise control - does they operate correctly?

Therefore a EA888 engine - either Gen 3 or 4? Have you done a search on this forum for oil consumption issues with this engine? Are you sure the smoke on start up is white, not blue? Heavy blue smoke after standing for a period possibly suggests worn valve guides. White exhaust smoke suggests burnt coolant, unless it is simply steam condensation you are seeing - which is normal for a cold engine. Does the exhaust smoke heavily on throttle up after running downhill or after 'backing off' on engine overrun? Ignore the first line, I misread that you in fact have a TDI. Lines 3, 4 & 5 will still apply to your engine.

Hello, welcome to the forum. - It will help others if you say what engine you have - and whether TSI or TDI. - How many miles are you driving in a week? - Is there heavy, blue smoke from the exhaust on first start from cold?

@Vijay2018 does your engine not have an oil level dipstick?

Hello, welcome to the forum. I'm sure that someone will come along soon and post the relevant TPI number for this well documented issue.

The 14 volt test reading, if taken under correct conditions (engine off and surface charge dissipated) cannot be true unless your battery is being seriously overcharged. In fact, that reading should be impossible unless the alternator is running.

I note there are also a number of low voltage faults on that scan, strongly suggest a full battery test to check condition. A failing battery will often raise spurious DTCs

Hello, are you sure of your engine specs - has the engine been modified in this car?

Check at the front of the engine, on the side opposite the battery - see if there is any fuel dripping near there. Been there, done that! although in my case, the engine would fire - then immediately shut down.

Yes filler cap. Loosening the cap, particularly when hot, releases the normal pressure build up in the coolant system - which can cause the coolant to rise, giving a misleading level.

@goatboy Were you getting misfiring with the faulty coil, if so, was it particularly noticeable?

I think that would be a good assumption to explain the fault. The slightly high resistance in the circuit will probably remain and may possibly cause spurious alerts in future. If access is easy, I'd suggest checking/cleaning the lamp contacts.

One issue with that is if the electronic service history is important to you - your BSG is unlikely to have access to upload service history updates.

The cooling fan should definitely run if coolant temperature has risen above normal, particularly when vehicle is stationary. Coolant fan not normally required at normal engine load and with vehicle moving at speed.

I'd recommend using a proper engine or brake cleaner rather than brake fluid to clean off leaked fluid. Brake fluid will leave its own residue behind.

Check reason for coolant fan not running when engine overheating. If 'Mit Silicat' bag is still in expansion tank, remove it or replace EV for one without it ASAP.

A tip if you are attempting to verify age of battery - there is usually a date stamp on the top of the negative terminal, format is WW,YY.

Not familiar with the Mk2 - but does your car have separate fluid cylinders for brake and clutch? The mk3 shares the fluid for both systems. Probably not necessary to change the clutch fluid if it is a separate cylinder though. Have you had the brake fluid tested to see if it is actually necessary to change - or are you simply following recommendation?

If that is while the temperature gauge is indicating high temperature, it will be the cause of overheating while stationary, particularly while undergoing a DPF regen. You previously said that the fan does run when you switch off engine during regen, so I'd suggest checking the coolant fan thermo-switch.

Suggest check for DTCs referring to any under boost issues.

Hoping that you didn't really mean 'jump' on the bonnet - that would certainly be an abomination unto Nuggan. 😁

But does the cooling fan run DURING the regen while the engine is indicating overtemperature?