nidza
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Everything posted by nidza
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https://www.volkswagen-newsroom.com/en/electronic-differential-lock-xds-3943
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This thread is too long, as described behavior looks as 1 to 1 for strong FWD car with an e-LSD assistance (XDS+ trademark in VAG) when momentum transfer balance between front axles is severely disturbed, what exactly occurs when one of the wheels loses traction on bump. I can provocate it in my car all the time, even it has VAQ in the front - because on high accelerations on low speeds, momentum difference between front half-axles can go above what VAQ can transfer. XDS+ in this case applies braking force to the slipping wheel with short braking bursts. edit: don't waste your life going to the dealers, all what's happening is perfectly normal.
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I can propose you a workaround until you resolve the issue, or change your phone - maybe there is some compatibility issue, try battery saving mode in the phone while connected.
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Almost certainly wheel bearing. What may be tricky is that direction from which noise and vibrations are coming, if it's a bearing, can be deceiving.
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I know what you mean, as I have asked the same question to my dealer. They were strongly _against_ flushing that first oil prematurely, so I have replaced it at 13000km, because it was just ahead long trip to Spain (4500km), which would breach maintenance interval (15000km) severely. Just do as dealer says. If you need top-up, go to them, or buy exactly the same oil regardless of the grading, and freely top-up yourself.
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This is not a problem, you can mix up grades if the oil is the same spec. What you will get is an average grade, meaning, if you only top up, you will get quite small difference. In other words, if you top up Castrol Edge Titanium 0w-20, ~5l with 5w-30, ~1l, you will get: 1w-22 mixture. It is better if you mix different grades of the same brand and oil type, then same grade of different manufacturers, or even spec.
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You can order only drivers mat, original. I suggest you do so, as most likely the rest of mats for your car are brand new, as it was case with mine. First of all, I hate throwing away good stuff, and second of all, price of all set is something to divert you towards aftermarket, and this is unfortunately not the same as original in this case. This is part number 5E1 864 435 only for LHD, which my car is, not for your car, as I assume it is RHD. Use it only for argument because my dealer also didn't believe me that this is possible.
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@TrinityJay, DMF remained stock with upgraded clutch?
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Good news. From your first post it is clear it is inadequate clutch for the torque peaks of the engine, simple as that.
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Happens to me all the time. Clean the connectors or change the card. Mine is MicroSD and in the adapter, so probably this is an issue. Forgot about it until you've mentioned it, as I use mostly Spotify recently.
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@Rubes, it is true some other cars do have SMF but they come from the factory as that. Their transmission is designed with having SMF set in mind, torque maps in ECU as well. By my understanding, as an engineer, DMF indeed has its purpose in suppressing torque peaks, not only for the sake of comfort. Anyway, your feedback is so much appreciated and thank you for that, as it is encouraging me to investigate this topic further.
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I like your car, even more its faultless, but this photo filter is terrible.
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Wait a minute, by my understanding how this piggy back works, you connect it only to a positive of a fuse, and mass is going anywhere else, It doesn't matter which fuse you use, as it is not going through it anyway. What only matters is whether you need persistent +12v or not, so you can use any.
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I've put mine behind passenger side of mirror, so I don't see it from my seat. It is not below or above, but right behind. Plain 70mai camera without screen, controlled by voice, so you don't need to see it. If you have different one, maybe some other setup may be optimal.
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Silicone won't help, and for the Teflon I don't know whether it is safe. I don't care, if it falls apart, I will be happy to put aftermarket which don't cause any trouble. So far all is right.
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There are multiple thread on this issue. Temporal resolution is spray some grease, deeply inside the bushing from the both sides - it is approachable from below the arm with long nozzle. It doesn't last long, but it is cost effective, as you do it in 5 minutes. I use Motip Teflon spray, maybe you have another brand in your country. When you try it on the flat surface, it leaves greasy like residue, quite a lot of it, so if it's able to penetrate inside the bushing, it will silence it for some time.
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Weakest point of 1.6 TDI is probably its DSG. 2.0 TDI has the "real one" with wet clutches, much more robust and rafined. But, to be honest, each one, if they are not beyond their lifetime, work quite nice.
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Surprisingly, the wet formula doesn't really look dirt attractive, although you got the point. I don't know if the dry lube can penetrate properly in the mid of bushing, but why not, let's try.
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Yeah, I fixed it approx. 2-3 months ago with Teflon grease in spray. You don't need to remove the wheel, but you need to turn steering fully to the side you want to apply grease. It is more approachable if you raise front with lifting jack, but can go without - approach from the bottom. The problem is the front rubber bushing on the front arm: On the picture is this little horizontal cylinder lower right. It needs greasing in the middle. Silicone didn't fix, some bike chain spray didn't fix, but Teflon did. You need tightly to put nose of the spray on the bushing itself, so the fluid reaches as deep as possible. Residue of this spray is grease, so it lasts some time.
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Let's revive this topic with old big wheelie of mine on Gazprom fancy station. Haven't gotten tired of this car, yet.
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It's exactly the same wheel, only different colour. Anthracite is the correct way to go, if you can't find black. This plain alu version from the red car will look dull on the gray one, which is already dull alone.
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This description doesn't look like tire related issue, but this is all fairly subjective topic. Is it loud as much you need earplugs or just it exists there and is annoying? I had Pirellis, exchanged them to PS4S, although there is sometimes noise from the tires, it doesn't occur on the smooth surfaces as you describe. It is really silent car on smooth roads, but load on coarse asphalt, which is unfortunately, quite common in my country. Let's be honest, Škodas aren't really silent cars, but not terrible as well. Wheel bearing issue maybe?
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Why?
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They work in my car since day one like you describe - my car is in factory condition, nothing was altered ever and I don't have RVC. You don't need to reverse first, front sensor work in slow commuting always, let's say first and second gear. They also work on quite longer distance in traffic, like 5m or something, so in dense traffic they beep on the car entering my line of driving. Is it a feature, or just a side effect of Doppler principle, I don't know. Sometimes it is really helpful to raise your attention to the angle out of sight, while looking at the side mirror to check fast approaching vehicles, and another car is doing the same crossing your lane (happens in traffic here often, either you jump in the empty space quickly, or you wait forever).
