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The best car for you is the one you like driving most. I hope you enjoy your new Superb. (EDIT: I misread the 1000km / month as 1000km / year. 😄)

Meh! I have OBD11 and it ain't all that. The interface is painfully slow and clunky, IMO. Getting it all going is not a quick as it should be, and it turns what should be a quick check into a bit of an event. I don't like it.

MILTA Technology | Automatic Gea...Mobile first – Automatic Gearbox Prices of repair | MILTA...Here You can find our automatic gearbox prices. We help anyone who owns an Audi, Volkswagen, Skoda, Seat, Bentley, Audi R8 and Lamborghini. I can't vouch for them, but they might be worth a phone call.

Yikes! Danger, Will Robinson. Some sort of expert intervention is needed ASAP.

Do not panic if your petrol car has a PPF (or GPF as they're sometimes called). They are nothing like DPFs. I cannot recall seeing a single issue with a PPF/GPF, other than people worrying about them. I worried about my PPF and it's done nothing to make its presence known. PPFs work passively, so don't need fuel to heat the process, they use lean-running to increase exhaust gas temperature to activate the burn cycle. I haven't seen a downside to the PPF so far, other than the prospect at some point in the car's life that I may need to replace it.

The damper IS a pain in the backside, but it's not so bad to sort out, once you get the hang of it. But there is definitely a knack to be learned, and it's frustrating until you know what you're doing. If you can live without the damper, then that would make life a lot easier. 😄 Incidentally, I found the full fat Bosch filter (Bosch A8530 - Cabin Filter Filter+) to be a bit pricey the last time I looked, so I went for the MANN equivalent (MANN-FILTER FP 26 009 Cabin Air Filter - CARS + TRANSPORTERS, Yellow) which fits perfectly. Amazon links for both filters below. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01LBWX340 https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00URDQ27A (Obviously prices vary depending on where you get your filter from)

Thanks for the update. It's always helpful for people to post the solution to problems they post on here.

Hi @Donie are you happy with your car, or is there an issue or problem you want to discuss?

If the bag hadn't split, you shouldn't have a problem with silica residue in your coolant. However you should renew your coolant, and possibly look at upgrading your coolant from G13 to G12evo.

15cm water is well within operating limits, according to the MK3 Octavia manual. Just drive slowly.

I'm not seeing the danger or anything more than a marginal risk to safety. It's certainly inconvenient, and probably quite annoying though.

Any chance of you posting this letter? (Redact any personal information about your self before posting.)

I'd add to this that I think it's worth changing oil after a period of time regardless of mileage. Oil ages, and as it ages, some of the additives in it may stop working, or not be as effective. I believe 1 year is equivalent to 10K miles use. So for 40K miles service intervals, change at 4 years, for 80k mile service intervals, change at 8 years, regardless of mileage.

This is the classic symptom of coolant silica bag failure. If you have a silica bag in your coolant, you might think about whipping it out. But if you have a heating problem, especially half hot, half cold, you might need a coolant system & heater matrix flush. If you do, my condolences, it's a right pain. 😒 That said, it's not the only failure point. Good luck! My silica bag in-situ and removed.

I keep receipts and have a spreadsheet detailing what I've done, when, at what mileage (usually) and how much it cost.

I know almost nothing about the EA888 beyond Gen 3B.

Any dealer worth buying from should just hand you the keys and let you take a 15-30 minute test drive. Walk away and tell them that you're walking away as you weren't able to have a proper test drive of the car. If they shrug and say "Okay, goodbye." you've just dodged a bullet.

It depends on the mod to fool the battery charging level, @Bap33 . There's a mod where a sensor is physically disconnected, which is the mod I was thinking of. @MikkyTee wasn't specific about which mod he was referring to and didn't mention VCDS, so I feel my note of caution about the simple bodge solution was appropriate. If Mikky intends to use VCDS to tells the CPU that the battery isn't in a condition suitable for S/S, then assuming that changed voltage reference is ONLY used to permit/inhibit S/S, then that sounds fine to me. 👍

There HAVE been internal changes. From VAG Self Study Programme 645.

I've been thinking about this myself (Gen3B engine) and if I were to change, I'd swap from 0/20 to 0/30. I think 5/30 would be a mistake. Bumping up the 0 to 5 may result in more wear on engine start, though going from 20 to 30 would give better hot protection under heavy load/hard driving. As I generally potter about, it's not something I'm in a rush to do, but it is on my radar.

This is a good point that I overlooked because I have S/S switched off.

That has knock-on effects though. You can buy a dongle that connects to the S/S switch and gives persistence to the last setting. So once you switch S/S off, it stays off until you switch it on again. Fooling the ECU about battery charging is not a great idea, IMO.

Hello there and welcome! Well this isn't quite as straightforward as some might think. (There's a bit of debate on the issue, TBH.) I think it's worth doing a test. With just you in the car, drive then come to a halt and stop the car with your foot holding the car stationary on the brake, with the gearbox in Drive. Hold stationary a couple of seconds, and then put the DSG into Neutral. 1) If the car relaxes back, as though you've just lifted the clutch of a manual gearbox from light biting point to completely off, then IMO, the time to put your DSG in neutral is whenever you come to a halt for more than a few seconds. Frankly I put my car in neutral EVERY time I come to a stop. I do it without thinking now, it's just an instinctive thing. 2) If you can feel nothing in the car when you put the DSG into neutral, then the time to put the DSG into neutral is when you shift between Drive and Reverse. Beyond that, it's not strictly necessary. (I'd still put it into neutral if sitting stationary for ages, though.)

The DSG can seem to be a bit dim at times, however it's just trying to guess what you want from it. It's possible to wrong-foot the DSG inadvertantly, when it thinks you're planning to sit where you are for a while, but actually you want to set off, and you give a throttle demand that the DSG doesn't quickly respond to, then the revs rise, the DSG seems to dump the clutch and "Yoink!" off you go with an uncomfortable lurch. I have found I need to think slightly further ahead, release the brake, feel the clutch engage, and then hoof it. However as I always put my DSG in neutral when I come to a halt, my putting the car in gear from neutral lets it know what I'm up to. Sometimes, I switch from neutral to drive and back to neutral again, if the gap to enter traffic isn't quite right and I need to skip a car or I'm having a senior moment, and that will usually confuse the DSG and I get a lurchy getaway as a reward.

Good as my word, here is the rusty part in question. I think it's the crash bar behind the bumper, but it's not at all appealing. I've painted it with some Owatrol to keep the worst of it at bay, but I didn't take off the bumper, so access was limited but I got what I could see plus a bit more, which will have to do for now. Additionally, I sprayed Dinitrol in my sills and subframe cavities, so I've got that job out of the way for a bit. Incidentally, I'm always amazed at how rigid the Mk3 Octavia. Jacking my car up on the front jacking point will raise the back wheel as well. Very impressive, IMO.