VWD

I's indeed a shame. My PC is a lot faster than min W11specs,with a decent FSB bus speed and more than double the memory needed. It lacks the TPM chip and the CPU is not compatible. But W10 is still supported till 2025(?). With the current state of the NHS ( no politics please), can I expect my health to be supported that far into the future? So do us older folks NEED W11? And then I wonder. HOW long will corporate clients wait to upgrade from W7 or W10 to W11.

AH - mis read that apologies. Possibly as I never get the chance these days to get out and use main beam.

I've joined the bright side and have LED on my dipped beams. For a few years, I've noticed that the Bavarian brigade can't see a Fabia unless it's got dipped beams on. But the connectors are4 not that good, and I've changed both a couple of times. ( the cable/connectors are not up to speed for 6A ). So I now get 55w out of LED at a tenth of the current, and for those of you that don't know the formula, it's all to do with heat generated by I*I*R. At last MOT, the tester could not find fault with the beam pattern or light output. All he had to say was that the "manual" did not allow LED lamps. So I

Were you "hacked" or subject to a data breach, where a site with your data was breached. There has been a lot of this recently. Sites like "haveibeen pwned" will alert you to breached usernames or passwords, but they want cash to tell you which site had the breach. Available for: Mac iOS Android Clario is free ( I've no connection other than as a happy user), but once you've added your username, it will happily tell you which password for that account has been on a dark site so you can change that one. It runs almost in the backgound on tablets etc, and will give you an alert for data breach. I run Avast one with Malwarebytes, but another program worth looking at is RogueKiller. It's guilty of false alerts, but better that than a hack/breach. But the best defence is being alert.

It depends on how you define on line banking. I define it as using a browser to access the bank on line . You can do this on any device capable of going on line( PC/laptop/tablet). It's simple. On browser log onto www.BANK.co,uk ( where BANK is on line address e.g. natwest etc) , then on bank site, "log in " with your own personal customer number( usually DOB + a unique number supplied by bank), then answer security questions. After that bank will send you a SMS with a pass code to the phone number they hold for you. Enter that on line and all is well. You are in. Or alternatively ( and I recommend using a 10" tablet,as it's a lot easier than anything smaller), find the bank app for the bank . Install and follow instructions. But the app method is more restrictive than logging on. Any help.

For those thinking of upgrading, Computer active(Oct/ Nov 2021) ran an article on tips to let older computers bypass some of the checks and asks the question if MS will reduce some of the requirements to meet public demand.

Nexbase tell me that there's two circuits. One is a shock sensor ,the other a voltage sensor. I can get in mine and opening door starts camera. Sit long enough and camera switches off. Turn on ignition and camera kicks back in. I don't thnk it's battery condition as I had the camera operating like that last year when battery struggled/failed to start car. In my car, my camera keeps on recording for a few minutes after engine switched off , so I shouldn't think that it would behave any different on a stop /start model. My camera is connected to the permanantly on ciggie socket, via a 12/5 v regulator, so I can only think that it's a small spike in the voltage rail that switches camera on. I suspect that you'd need a scope on he 5 v line to detect that , although any simple circuit that differentiates between the 5v line and any small differential should be capable of doing that.

Or for a lot less https://www.energizedcustoms.co.uk/vehicle-lighting/headlights.html?vehicle_make=58&vehicle_model=297&year=1583 post free and very quick delivery. They are based in Telford, but will allow collection by appointment. Approx £80 a side or £150 for a pair. My tip for fitting the bottow radiator side bolt is to screw the plastic ferrule fully out and tie a bit of string etc to the bolt. Stops the bolt falling into the undertray when ( not if) it works loose when fitting it into the hole. on one side I had to "persuade" the wing to move up about 1/2 inch. Possibly as it had been changed( some one with a van clobbered me).

I've got a nextbase 3 series and I've looked at some pics in various light situations and it seems to cope with varying light conditions.

Make of dashcam, as most of the better ones have both a motion timer and a voltage sensor to shut the dashcam down . My Nextbase has both. One motion sensor to start/stop the camera when the car is jolted and another voltage sensor which switches camera on when the voltage line drops, such as when a door is opened. Otherwise the dashcam ( when left alone in a stopped car) just shuts down. On the recording side, most dashcam will record and wipe( i.e continue recording till memory card full and then over write). On the Fabia( possibly the same on Octavia ), my electrical side has what is known as circuits controlled by an X relay where such circuits are only on when ignition is on. In which case you could find one and use a "piggy back" fuse to provide power to that side. But with the consumption of a dashcam is it worth it? I'd suggest you get hold of a Haynes and look for any fuse controlled by an X relay if you want to go down that route. Or buy a decent dashcam with auto shut down/power up when volt rails vary.

I've got same problem ( barking) with my little cross. She's a rescue, and hates women of a certain look. She does not lick windows, just makes them mucky.

Fact of life. Diesel vehicles only heat up when working. Get a diesel up to running temperature and then stop it with the heater on and watch the temperature gauge drop. Before retirement, I worked for a rail company. We'd often end up at night on a standby role. (i.e. we'd turn up, wait while work was performed in case some signalling kit was damaged). During the waiting time, we found a corner, got the van heated up and slept, but we knew not to turn the heater up too far as the engine would cool down. In my car, the heater is excellent, but only after a trip of more than a few miles. But a thought for Pentium. Do you leave the dog/dogs in the car for a while? I've got a small dog(JRT/cairn X), We often leave her in car whilst at supermarket to come out and find the inside steamed up especially if the grass is damp.

I did mine ( with help from son) a couple of years ago. Pointless changing just one, as the other one will most possinbly be stretched. The clamps on the rear arm can be re used ,but a tiewrap meets MOT standards and stops any problems with cable corrosion. One thing I'd suggest is the use of a 10mm ratchet spannen.

Sticky handbrake cable on one side?. I had problems on one side where the handbrake clip to the arm had corroded and damaged the inner. No real sign of damage to cable sheath other than slight corrosion. I found easiest way was to take cable off car and check for problems or slacken off adjuster ( 10mm ratchet spanner works well) , remove cable from handbrake and rear shoes and check for friction/ any sticking points. One other place I found problems is with the adjuster wedge not dropping when replaced. Local garage has also told me of problems with "notches" on the wedges getting filled with dust. Again I found it simpler to replace both cables as the other one had stretched and examine the sheath showed signs of problems. I used a cheapo torque wrench on the wheel nuts to ensure wheels are binding equally.

I changed mine over last year and found https://www.energizedcustoms.co.uk/ cheapest around. I notice their prices have gone up a bit but delivery is quick and free. Better than any of the second hand places who wanted close to the price energised charged and £10 for delivery. My reason for changing was that a "kind" person had hit the passenger on and I decided to change both as I'd have paid same to have it done under insurance. I can confirm that the motors are an easy swap . On mine I had to ensure that the ball on the motor engaged with the socket on the headlamp. As per my post a few months ago I've still got a driver side headlamp going free to collect or arrange collection. I changed it to keep the pair matched. It passed MOT u till then with no advisories .

Quick tip for rear drum cylinders. I had problems getting one out and asked my mate a truck breakdown bloke for help. His reply was a disc cutter on the body of the cylinder, as the body was too corroded to take the correct key. I secured the new one in with an industrial Allen bolt( a bit longer than needed and of a bit better quality than origonal)), with a lock nut. Allen bolt finger tight to backplate, then tighten a locknut to backplate. MOT man was impressed and approved. it means that in future removing cylinder is easy ( or as easy as it should get0.

Can't comment on the cartridges but I've used this place for lots of years, both personally and as part of a residents association printing a newsletter ( circa 300 copies of double sided A4 with 4 pages in each) and in over 15 years we had only one bad cartridge. The MD lived locally and he delivered personally. They are not OEM but compatible. I use a Epson WF2010 and a set of cartridges cost me circa £12 or circa £8 for two black. The firm moved to Louth in Linc's years ago, but still the same prices and speedy service. The MD is an IT bloke and if he won't use a product he won't sell I. www,printer cartridges.net.

Thats why litle lexi is left untethered on the back seat. If someone gets close she can retreat and not feel threatened. Bit different from one dog ( a large 12kg Cairn), who'd defend his car against anyone getting too close. Or something I saw in Africa. In Bulawayo, cars did not have alarm systems, till there was a spate of break-ins and folks started fitting alarms to front doors. The natives got wise and started to take out rear windows. One day, a game warden had rescues a baby Crock . He'd left it on the rear seat under a damp towel, whilst he nipped into bank. Meantime, two locals spotted something nice on rear seat ,under towel. Police arrived to find one local with a crock attached to arm and rear window on ground.

Mine has the cable hatch release, which has MK1 radio release waiting ( it's a "round tuit" job) which involves a control unit in boot with a cable to the LH side of the boot release. 😁

"locked glove box." I did not say that. I repeated advice about leaving the glove box OPEN so that any person looking in could see that there was nothing in said glove box. It's NATIONAL crime prevention policy. DO NOT leave anything in sight to attract a break in.

Fabia alloys- last person stealing them was sent to looney bin. Stereo in back street. Would you want to tangle with a 8kg JRT cross who is frightened of strangers.

Meanwhile back in 2021 , crime prevention advice remains the same. Anything inviting left on display is a target. Car systems are protected. Alloy wheels are locked) , but ANYTHING of value inside a car can /will be stolen for a fix. I've seen it in past.

As posted above . Idea being that it's obvious( by being open ) that glove compartment contains nothing of value and is not locked.

If you only want the amp to work when ignition is on, you could buy a piggyback fuse ( it's a fuse holder with a parallel fuse which plugs into a fuse position. ONE fuse position supplies the origonal circuit whilst the second one supplies the aux circuit via a seperate fuse). Plug it into an always on circuit ( with a small fuse in the secondary position, or into a position controlled via ignition on ) .Scotchlock ( insulation displacement connectors) are frowned on these days as there's a possibility of corrosion at the joining point. Always a possibility in a MK1 Fabia due to damp inside car.