Alasdair1

I agree with the stoping distance. Some are as previously said shocking. Guy at our local tyre service told me that on budget and some lower priced mid range tyres its the manufacturer that states the tyre data so can be listed as better than they actually are. I found out when I fitted budget tyres to get car through MOT. Brand new and first wet roundabout went straight on instead of turning. (wasnt going that fast at all) Took them back and he fitted mid range GT radial with no probs so far. Kept the cheap ones as spares. Dont buy Comforser!! Alasdair

Is your coolant level ok. It may be a faiing waterpump or perhaps an airlock thats cleared itself or as simple as a sticking thermostat. I agree with changing sensor anyway and would monitor it and keep an eye on coolant. Alasdair

Many thanks. Tayna battery came up with 012 but some others came up with 063 which is slightly shorter. Similar Ah and cca. Will double check height when son gets back from work. Reckon he could do with a more powerful one as he has the usual amount of gadgets in car plus its damn cold here so hard on battery. One thats fitted is ok but a bit small and struggles on cold mornings plus at moment hes only doing very short runs so probably not getting fully charged. Alasdair

If its a use once nut 12 point then its 50Nm plus 45 degrees. (thats for the MK1 but think the MK2 is the same) It must be tightened with wheel off the ground.

Not sure but another quick point is disconnect battery while checking voltage before starting. just in case there is a drain somewhere. If it still reads under 12 and wont charge up any higher then I would get a new one. Alasdair

Sounds like the battery is failing. The turning may be coincidence or perhaps the power steering uses more power turning right? and the voltage has dropped too low for the electronics in car. I would try a different known good battery or a new one.

timing at 75k should still be ok unless its more than 5 years as long as they fitted a decent quality kit. Any decent garage would be able to look at it/check it for you and may be able to help. My old one that I used to use regularly before they retired didnt mind if you popped in to let them hear any problems especially if you took biscuits/cakes Alasdair

If the battery is 11.3 volts its either very low and needing charged or failed. Depending on how old it is it might need replacing if it wont charge up fully. With the car running are you getting 13.7-14.7 volts as it may be the alternator thats not charging rather than a failed battery. Alasdair

Could be as simple as a failing battery or bad earth/wiring fault/fuse/relay problem somewhere but you will need to get it scanned to see if it stored any fault codes to hopefully pin point the problem. Check that the battery is good and reading at least 12.4volts engine off and is actually charging 13.7-14.7volts when engine running. Check battery terminals etc and earths for corosion as well as fuses/relays for looseness or corosion as well. As said difficult/impossible to tell until its been scanned. Alasdair

Shouldnt work with ignition off and key removed. Maybe a stuck relay if it uses one or bad switch. Not sure which relay does wipers. Had a look online but couldnt find out any info. Alasdair

Hi I am trying to find out whats the correct battery for my sons 06 plate mk1 fabia 1.2htp. The one fitted has failed but doesnt match up with any online so I assume the previous owner fitted a different one. I have fitted a spare battery but its old and looks too small plus gone flat a couple of times. I have come up with an 012 but not sure. Alasdair

Found this list but not sure if its the same on your car. Reccomendation is to unplug each individually with ignition off and then switch on and check if code is gone. The sensor that removes code is likely to be the problem or wiring to it. Not sure if it helps but worth a try. Check for dirt/moisture in connectors Manifold Pressure/Boost Sensor (G31) Intake Manifold Tuning Valve Position Sensor (G336) Low Pressure Fuel Sensor (G410) Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor (often on this circuit) Throttle Position Sensor

I am trying to learn vcds as well. According to rosstech the p0642 is low voltage to a number of sensors but p3138 is intake manifold control which I think is one of the sensors. Check the wiring from ECU to inlet manifold for damage or corosion/looseness at terminals. Read common places for damaged wires are (taken from AI) Common culprits are shorts to ground from wiring/connectors (especially near turbo/intake/thermostat housing), a failing sensor (MAP, Boost, Fuel Rail Pressure, Throttle Position) Havent got VCDS yet but its on my list. Mate has just got it and is learning too. Alasdair

The radio is a weird one but I have read on here a couple of ttimes that some aftermarket radios were stopping OBD2 conecting to car. Doesnt make sense but at least you got it calibrated. Think someone mentioned it interfering with canbus but thats way above my level. Can you get a hub ring or is it a compete bearing? Alasdair

On mine I do the timing belt at 50-60k or every 5 years plus water pump. It may be getting to the mileage/age it should be done but difficult to tell if theres no history of when it was done last. Might be worth inspecting or getting someone to check belt to see if its in good condition. Have seen a few that are just holding on and no more. Alasdair

Try a length of garden hose. Put one end to your ear and move the other around the area where the noise is. You should be able to pinpoint where its coming from or at least narrow it down a fair bit. Check theres no damage or wear on alternator belt or alternator bearings. Had one fail and alternator fan was hitting the casing slightly making a tappet noise. It may be the tensioner or timing belt/water pump. When was it last changed. Alasdair

Maybe someone on here near you has VCDS that could scan car for you to see if it pings up something that your scanner has missed. If thats the second abs sensor it may be the bearing/magnetic sensor ring thats causing problems. Try a multimeter on sensor I think it should be 800-2000ohms and a steady reading. Change to AC volts and spin wheel. If the sensor and magnet is working you should get varying voltage as wheel speed changes. Thats for a two wire sensor. Think its 0.5-1volt at low speed. Alasdair

Sons is the same. I think on his its slightly worn rear bushes. Not sure what to lubricate with. I was thinking a silicone spray. Alasdair

If its not wiring then it could also be a problem with the steering angle sensor not being calibrated properly. If a manual reset doesnt work I read it may have to be done while driving and using obd11 or vcds which is a bit beyond me but someone on here will know. Alasdair

Wonder if you could get an old one from a scrappy to see if it fits. They are fitted to a lot of different cars. Alasdair

I use Febi parts finder https://partsfinder.bilsteingroup.com/en They have excellent pictures and dimensions etc plus what vehicle its used in an oem cross reference etc Alasdair

Is yours petrol or diesel. The diesel drive shafts I think are shorter but dont know if the fitting is the same. Had a look at Febi parts finder and Febi 181993 is used in 1.4tdi/1.9tdi MK1 and is shorter than the one on my sons 1.2 petrol. Think its 30mm shorter. Alasdair

On my sons mk2 you lever around the edge of the black trim where it meets the grey consol. His was really tight. I used an old flat narrow scraper and gradually worked around it. You are better with plastic trim removal tools as its easy to damage plastic.

Maybe by lowering car drive shaft is too long or at different angle causing strain or cv joint is failing. Check its not hitting anything as well. Alasdair

May be a wiring fault to ECM or perhaps a failing relay. Did read that it could also be a fault stored in ECM that is affecting other systems. According to rosstech the fault within the ECM will have to be adressed before the fault codes on other systems can be cleared. Alasdair