Alasdair1

I got a sachs master from amazon as no one else locally had any and did it myself. Think it was around £45-00 and that was cheap but the cost of labour plus vat and any extras soon mount up. Its fairly straight forward but a pain to do as you have to remove pedals etc and its also one of those jobs you can see it but getting to it without a ramp isnt easy. I reckon say two hours labour plus parts and vat £227 is a fair price. Alasdair

Had a quick look and difficult to see due to battery box but looks external. The plunger/rubber gaitor on the slave is internal so if leaking wont be noticed but looks like it can be replaced without Gbox removal. Check bottom of bell housing/gearbox join for signs of fluid. Sons fabia is the same. His was leaking into bell housing but I replaced it without removing Gbox. Keep an eye on your brake/clutch fluid. It may be that fluid is getting past the seals in either slave/master but not actually leaking yet. If your fluid is dropping then theres a leak somewhere. Alasdair

Mine went and it was the master. Used to do it randomly. Couldnt see any leaks but they were ending up on engine undertray. When you replace it watch for the small rubber grommets/seas. They dont generally come with new master and can get left in old one. Have a 58 plate estate (same engine) sitting for spares so will check the slave and see if its external/internal for you. Alasdair

I read with vcds it can tell what degree the chain has stretched. Ai says VCDS checks a timing chain by reading the "Camshaft Adaptation Intake Bank 1" value in the engine control module to measure chain stretch in degrees of crankshaft rotation. For TSI engines, this is usually found in Measuring Block 93 (or Advanced Measuring Values), where a value approaching -5° or more indicates significant stretching requiring service A bit above my tech but maybe a VAG specialist or someone near you with vcds could scan it or you. Alasdair

Once you get a larger oil cooler/rad etc it may be adviseable to change oils as running at 140C I reckon will degrade it pretty quickly. Alasdair

You could at a last resort try some kseal or steel head if you think it may be a cracked head. Kept my old toyota lucida going for another year and a half before it had catastrophic head failure due to cracks between the valves and didnt notice it overheating as sun was really low so couldnt see dash. It was a nightmare to change head as its mid engine under front seats. Not bad once you remove just about everything to get to it. Must have been over 150 nuts and bolts plus auxiliary drive shaft turbo pipes and more. Alasdair

Glad it was a fairly simple fix. Definitly worth removing and cleaning up plus extra lube. Alasdair

Maybe check that theres voltage going to fuel sender. Think it should be 5-6v. If theres voltage there then it may well be the sender. Not sure but on my old cars if the supply to sender was earthed it should make guage read full. If theres voltage there and when earthing no guage movement it could be the guage or a cluster fault. Do not check with sender removed if its petrol. Sparks and petrol are never a good idea. Check the wiring as well for damage as if its shorted somewhere it may show full all the time. Alasdair

Glad you got it fixed and hopefully airbag light will stay off once reset. Alasdair

That code I think is misfire on cylinder 4. It may be there that the headgasket is gone and your not getting proper compression/combustion etc. If the cooler has been bypassed then I would be 99% that its the head gasket or crack in head itself. Alasdair

It doesnt sound right but cant work out what the noise may be. Might be worth getting it checked with vcds. I read that it can detect a stretched chain etc and may ping up fault codes/bad injector etc. Alasdair

I doubt its the timing chain/tensioner after less than two years unless it was a cheapo one that was fitted or wasnt fitted correctly. Still shouldnt rule it out though. Next time it happens try and locate roughly where its coming from. I use a length of hose with one end to ear and move other end around engine bay till the noise gets louder. It might be a bad fuel injector if your mpg is dropped. Difficult to say . Alasdair

Might be worth changing cam sensor first but it does look like a timing issue. I wouldnt be driving too much if at all until its checked. Last thing you want is for it to jump a few teeth. I assume they used the correct oil last service. Alasdair

Cant see unplugging it causing any harm. Doesnt look to bad a job to replace either. Alasdair

When was the oil changed last and is it at the correct level. Think that engine has variable valve timing and I read that low/poor engine oil can cause oil control solanoid not to work properly. Alasdair

Pretty sure that will be the aux pump. I was told it was to boost temp in cabin while cars warming up which I assume would feed heater matrix. It may be that thats not working properly or there is still air in system/matrix which may cause an airlock somewhere and over pressure? Worth a look. Alasdair

Had same on old auto volvo. There was an extra oil cooler available but not fitted as it was aftermarket towbar. You may be able to upgrade the oil cooler fitted. Have seen some that state number of cooling ribs etc. Alasdair

Does yours have an auxiliary water pump? Its a long shot but if it has it may be leaking or forcing air into system. I think it comes on when cold to boost heating etc. Have had a couple of waterpumps over the years that allowed air in but werent leaking coolant at the time. Alasdair

If its losing a small amount of coolant maybe oil cooler thats leaking slightly. Have you any emulsified oil on cap? Another thought would be small crack in cylinder head thats opening slightly when hot and closing when cold but I would expect to see some white smoke unless its very small. It may have been a head seal rather than rad weld. Its odd that its holding pressure though but if the crack is sealing itself when cooling down might explain it. Alasdair

If you havent already remove cluster and clean connections/make sure its seated properly. Had same on my octavia. Weird warning lights but no codes. DPF light (no dpf) Blown bulb but all ok. Few others that were very dim including EML plus foglight symbol on all the time when lights on but fog lights off. Cleaned cluster connection and refitted and it was spot on. Reckon it either came loose or got some dampness into connector. Remember to disconnect battery before removing cluster. Could also be a bad earth somewhere thats causing low voltage?Check the cluster for dry solder joints or moisture damage. Alasdair

If theres any corosion on fuses it can cause problems. They can be intermittent as if its a bad connection can heat up which can either cure problem or make it worse. Hopefully a decent battery and fuse clean up/change will help. As said check voltage again at blower connection now battery is charged. Alasdair

Try checking voltage at blower supply again and use a known good earth like bare chassis etc. It might be a bad earth to fan or a short somewhere. Check fuses are all good and secure/making good contact and no corosion. You read 11.6v but I think that may be low. If its a bad connection then that could drop when fan is operating due to resistance. I would assume it should be nearer 12-14v unless your car battery is low. Alasdair

Meant to add check the voltage on your battery first. A low battery can cause all manner of faults. Just realised you have it on charge. Worth checking voltage anyway. Alasdair

My mk2 1.9tdi used to do the same. It was the wastegate that was sticking and causing overboost. I lubricated mine and manually operated until it was smooth and it hasnt done it again since. When it did happen if I turned engine off and back on again it reset and warning light disappeared until next time. It used to happen very randomly. Alasdair

Reckon your first thing would be to inspect sparkplugs and probably replace. If the gap is too large or are dirty etc you may not be getting a proper spark/combustion at lower revs plus bad plugs can damage coil plugs. As for brands I use NGK on all my vehicles etc. Never had a problem with them. Avoid cheap or unknown makes especially champion. Had a quick google and think the oem is 03F905600A (skodaparts.com) NGK cross ref came up with this Not sure if you need a sparkplug boot removal tool on yours. Sons mk1 fabia needs one to avoid damaging leads. Alasdair