Alasdair1

It might be that the pump that fits into the reservoir has come loose. The rubber seal failed on min and drained tank. I agree with sealing off pipe. You could plug it and kink it using a cable tie and then tie up out of road. Refill tank and see if anything is leaking. Alasdair

I saw on here a MK3 with similar problems but a 23 plate MK4 should have lasted a bit longer. Can't see there being a problem re waranty and if there is threaten to publicise the fact thats its only done 10k. Sons went on his MK1 after 20 years/66k when I was driving it which I would expect due to the age of the car. Dont touch it as his grinded away and then dropped straight down and wouldn't go up again. Nightmare drive home as it was -12C and road covered in slush. Took hours for my head to defrost. Alasdair

Are you sure the battery is ok. Have had a few that will hold charge if disconnected but lose charge quickly when connected due to bad cells. What voltage are you getting from battery. Alasdair

Had an old volvo that used to smoke after idling for a while then clear itself. It was worn turbo seals that let a little oil in. Seemed to build up when idling then burnt off when car running at speed. Eventually swappped turbo for a good second hand one. Alasdair

Years back Lucas in Inverness would check a starter for you. Not sure if there is anybody who does that these days. Maybe try autoelectrician? Alasdair

Dont suppose its a DMF rattling about in neutral? Alasdair

Had similar on my old octavia. Whistle sound almost like a siren in the distance. Eventually started going into limp mode but no EML on . In my case it was a sticking actuator on turbo causing overboost. Lubricated it with penatrating oil and maanually actavated for ages until it was smooth plus arms hurt. Seemed to cure the problem. I have read that sticking turbo veins can cause similar problems. Alasdair

In your video clip you say something and then the sound gets worse. Are you doing anything that causes the sound to get worse. Alasdair

I had it in my head that its a timing chain on that engine but also has a seperate chain that drives the oil pump which I read are known to rattle. Alasdair

Sounds a bit like the timing chain is loose! Not sure on your engine but some also had seperate chain driven oil pump that is prone to rattle as well. Alasdair

Might be as simple as a faulty switch or perhaps broken shorted wire. Check the cables where they come through from the door pillar to the doors. Both sides as the window motor on the drivers side also controls passenger window. Alasdair

If yours are the same a my sons they have a grooved side to them that was worn out. I replaced them when I did the shoes. I got mine from brakes international https://www.brakesint.co.uk/ I got the full kit for both sides with all the levers and springs etc for about £22 delivered. In the back plate there are small plastic inserts that the shoes slide on that can also wear out. Check the brake cylinders as well for any weeping or dampness. I replaced his as they were pretty bad and starting to leak slightly. Alasdair

I reckon an alignment is the next option although tyres are wearing perfectly so not too hopefull. If that doesnt work going to see about getting front drive shafts replaced/reconditioned as its the only thing left to do. Going to swap tyres around first in case its wheel related but just had new tyres plus balancing on front and rears are only 1/4 worn. Alasdair

They are triple square splines. I got a cheap set from Amazon and so far they have lasted very well. There about £14 on amazon. Alasdair

Check the wheel bearings as well for play. Sons front bearing was shot and he mentioned that the ABS seemed to be engaging when it shouldnt. Replaced bearing and ABS returned to normal. His bearing was particularly noisy though. There was a bit of play if you pulled wheel towards you. Should have noticed it sooner but his exhaust was blown and couldn't hear the drone noise until I repaired exhaust. Alasdair

My old octavia had damaged/stripped threads on the airfilter housing. It had a small few holes drilled and cable tied down. Never caused me any problems and was like that for years. Not sure if its any help but my sons mk1 threw up similar code and it was the brake servo hose that was split in three places. The valve was ok. I found out on line that it could be the valve or linked to a vaccum problem. I taped the ends up and canceled fault codes and its been fine for months.

Hope its just a simple bleed and it cures the problem. Alasdair

You could try and reset the gear linkage cables. On mine you lock the selector lever on top of gbox and remove cables then lock gearstick and attach cables again. Theres a tutorial on youtube if I remember

I have been waiting for about a year now for mine to get bad enough to diagnose and still no luck. everything is solid and no advises on MOT last month and no visible play in anything. Going to get a 4 wheel alignment done to see if they can shed some light on it and hopefully improve it.

My 1.6tdi has a wobble/vibration when accelerating worse at 40-50mph. Weird as it randomly is ok. Felt through the seat but not the steering wheel. Have replaced and checked bushing suspension etc and still there. Spoke to a mechanic today and he suggested swapping tyres from rear to front etc and if its still there get a four wheel alignment done plus tyre balancing. If that doesnt work then it might be a damaged drive shaft thats out of balance or worn cv joint. Alasdair

If there are no signs of leaks it might be either the master or slave cylinder thats letting fluid past the seals but not actually leaking out yet. Not sure if your slave is internal or external. Mine on my mk2 1.9tdi is external so fairly easy to replace without removing box. The master was a bit more difficult as it requires removal of the pedals and not the easiest to get to if you dont have a garage ramp . Have you tried bleeding the clutch. It may be drawing in air somewhere. I would suggest a pressure bleed kit for ease . 50k on the other hand is very low to require a new clutch/DMF? A slave cylinder for mine was about £25-00 and the master was sligtly more. If bleeding doesnt help and yours has an external slave I would change that and see if it makes a difference as if its needing another clutch I would be changing it anyway. A quick note when my master failed on mine all the fluid ended up on the undertray. It used to go to the floor randomly and not return. You had to catch it with your foot and pull the pedal up. Only noticed fluid when car was winched onto recovery truck and it ran out from tray Alasdair

Long shot but maybe disconnect battery for a few hours and reconnect. Maybe the ecu has had a blip and not coping/recognising new sensor. It should hopefully reset everything and might work. Had similar problems with sensors on my old octavia. As a last resort I disconnected battery, left it overnight and reconnected and it seemed to cure itsef. Alasdair

I get a little oil around mine but not that bad. Wonder if theres a crank breather or other blocked/failed thats increasing pressure and forcing oil out? Alasdair

Many thanks for the link. Its a project car I was given by a mate who needed it gone ASAP. Its a Jap import eunos 1.8 auto everything solid and all there but no time to start it at moment plus wont turn over due to I think an aftermarket imobilser which I will have to find and try and remove. I assume its similar to the old volvo 940 unit that flashed led codes when you jumped the pins with a paperclip. Thanks again Alasdair

Was thinking the same but I reckon I will need full VCDS as I have Mk1 fabia, 2 x MK2 octavia plus a Seat altea xl. Is there anything thats good for all cars as I also have Mk1 Mazda MX5 and Toyota lucida(previa) and my daughter seems to be adding to her collection as well althouh most of hers are older 80's and 90's Have been meaning to put a post up to see whats a general good scanner that would cover most. Alasdair