Alasdair1

Only time I replace only one is to get through MOT and I dont have time to fit other I always buy two and do it later. Speak to the garage/person who did it and get them to redo it plus make sure they use a new shock and perhaps get other side done as well. I would make sure I saw the one thats got the bent bracket after they fitted a new one just in case they decide to straighten bracket and reuse it. As said new bolts as well but a lot of garages just reuse old ones when they should be replaced. Alasdair

Thats about as bad as I have seen. The reason why I hate EGR systems. Whover came up with the idea of adding diesel exhaust back into engine I reckon wasn't a mechanic. Had an old toyota diesel the same. I cleaned everything up and then blanked EGR. Older engine so got away without telling ECU. It ran fantasticly after cleaning and still got through emisions at MOT. The gunge that came out on mine was like road tar. Alasdair

Did check and they are clean/no corosion and secure. As said still hasnt done it again so hopefully was just a blip. Have a socket set etc in boot plus multimeter just in case it happens again. Alasdair

I always do an annual service on my cars. If its under waranty I reckon you will have to follow skoda/dealer guidelines to preserve the waranty. Check that getting a local garage to do it doesnt invalidate it . My annual mileage is lowish with a few long runs so I changed mine to annual whether its needed or not. Normally done by me just before or after MOT. I suppose I could get away with longer due to lower miles but for the cost of filters and engine oil etc I reckon its worth doing annualy in my case plus doing at MOT time reminds me to get it done. Alasdair

The click click from starter hasn't happened again. Dont know why it happend with good battery but if its working I am happy. Old saying if its not broken dont fix it. Will be taking socket set and multimeter etc with me for a while just in case. Alasdair

Just read on here that crankshaft speed/position sensor can be a cause with rarely a fault code Extract from article 'The G28 sensors are known to suffer heat related failure and not to leave a code which makes them harder to diagnose. With the symptoms mentioned and especially the rev counter behaviour, it makes it certain for me without doing direct diagnosis such as logging the G28 signal. Also, the G28 is just about the only sensor that will cut an engine instantly if you disconnect it when running.' I also read that the car wont start again until cool and it can affect the rev counter. Alasdair

If there are no codes stored then I reckon its maybe a fuel problem or perhaps imobilser kicking in? Could be the high pressure diesel pump. (electrical connection or pump failing). Try it without fuel cap in case vent is clogged and its causing a vaccum. If you don't have VCDS maybe get it scanned and see if it pings anything up that your scanner missed. Its weird its ok after leaving it for a while. Alasdair

My old MK2 estate leaked around the high brake light. I thought it was washer fluid but it was seeping in past the seal. It also used to come in in base of boot near spare wheel as there was a damaged grommet . I dried car and then sat in boot during car wash. Got some really odd looks but found leak. Alasdair

Thanks for the replies. Didn't realise car had stationary limiter. Old octy didnt seem to have one. Thought I had a major ECU prob as need the car for tomorrow. Willreset windows when I get a chance. Thanks again Alasdair

Have a 12 plate 1.6tdi octavia and yesterday dreaded click click click from starter when trying to start in town. AA came out boosted battery and got it going no problem. Guy said the battery was down to about 20% capacity holding and suggested get another before winter. Had a good battery in old Octavia. Put on charge over night and fitted this morning. First try went click click click from starter then second attempt started no bother. Have started and stopped about a dozen times without problem since then. Usual lights on after removing battery steering,abs, etc until I ran it up and down the road. Problems remaining since battery change are Fuel guage isnt showing full tank (just filled to brim) Gradually increasing as I drive but seems to have stopped at 300 miles Car wont rev past 2500 when stationary. Feels like limp mode but revs fine when driving. Not sure if this is normal?? Windows seem to work ok but with long press on switch windows dont automatically go fully down. If I use fob to unlock then long press all windows go down If I lock car then long press only drivers window goes up. All other windows still operate from drivers buttons. I'm hoping due to flat battery and replacement things will eventually sort themselves out once ECU gets it together Whats worrying me is that it didnt start first time with good battery. Thinking maybe bad earth but checked and seems good and no probs since change Hope the above makes sense. Alasdair

Had a look at a superb when I was looking for another Octy. Very nice car indeed with all the add ons and more. I went with an Octavia mainly as I have a few that I canabilise for parts. May well go for a Superb next time as my donor cars are gradually getting stripped of decent parts. Its if I remember slightly longer than the Octavia but as said very nice to drive. Enjoy Alasdair

If you lose any more I reckon you could just apply a clear top coat. Never seen one that bad. Alasdair

Cant think of any other way to decompress engine. Hopefully if its brake cleaner it will eventually evaporate or drain down.

From your description of 'only turning once if that' .something maybe jamming a piston or pistons in one or more cylinders One may be full of liquid/gunk and not reaching full stroke before either hitting something or trying to compress liquid. It may be worth loosening the injectors or glow plugs to cause some decompression and see if any liquid comes out . I would turn over by hand until you check out inlet etc. Alasdair

When you say it doesnt turn over but cranks once do you mean that the engine actually turns (pistons are moving) but doesnt start or does it turn and then stop turning at a specific point. I wouldnt use starter until your sure there is nothing gone down air intake that could jam pistons/valves etc. Try and turn engine over by hand and see if there is any resistance at any point. Hope that makes sense. Engine cranking to me is the same as engine turnover but not the same as starting. Brake cleaner should evaporate quickly so doubt its hydraulicking Alasdair

If it turns over then any fluid may come out anyway unless its hydraulicking. Wonder if you have blocked the cat with gunge and fluid as there is no dpf as far as I know on the BXE. Removal of glowplugs is better done when engine is hot and also better to put some penetrating oil around glowplugs for a few days beforehand. Check the butterfly is operating in the air intake. Alasdair

If the wire is broken I normally just solder the wire together but if its at a point where it gets flexed if near a door hinge I tend to replace a section so the join isn't getting stressed. I generally solder a new section in and use heat shrink to cover the joins pus some insulation tape for extra protection. A lot cheaper and easier than replacing loom. Alasdair

Check you replaced all the electrical connectors and vaccums etc and there secure and making contact. Weird it wont start after it being cleaned unless you dropped a lot of gunge into intake. It could also be stuck open but car not noticed as it was completey blocked Alasdair

From memory I think its on the opposite end of pump from drive wheel end Alasdair

Spend the money on good quality new brake discs and pads etc if needed. Rear drums work very well as previousy said but have problems. Check and replace the rear wheel cylinders depending on there condition as well as the small plastic discs the shoes sit on plus adjusters Did that on my sons fabia and made a big difference as his were worn out and had slight imbalance plus slight weep of brake fluid. A decent set of tyres as well and see how it drives. Check the suspension arm bushing for wear as well. Sons car is like new to drive after changing front swing arms etc and a lot more positive on the road. A new exhaust system plus discs on rear won't give you any real increase in power or improve handling. Better spending the money on something else Alasdair

Came accross this on here. Seems to be a wwiring issue between EGR and ECU. Appologise its just a link. If its not the wiring then maybe new EGR

I replaced my sons but I was also doing the bearing. The other side I managed to use a long sharp chisel to tap it free along the edge of the bolt then some long nozed vice grips. Weird thing was the one that was difficult to get was the most rusted on both sides. Luckily it wasn't seized in just rusted head so I managed to remove it. I replaced them with stainless steel bolts I got a packet from toolstation. They were allen type with a rounded head. I used a bit of heat on them with penetrating oil. Alasdair

You will be hard pushed to find a diesel without DPF unless its fairly old and in good condition. If its a Fabia then my folks had a late MK1 estate 1.9tdi BXE. Think it was an 07 plate and it fairly shifted when you wanted it to and 60-70mpg long run. My old Octy was the same engine as well as my old Seat altea. No dpf or adblue nonsense. Engines are generally bomb proof but road tax is higher and no where near Ulez compliant. Will be following this as I now have a 1.6tdi Octavia 12 plate with dpf and don't do many long runs anymore so may be looking for the same as you. Alasdair

On my old Seat altea 1.9tdi BXE (same engine) there is an egr cooler at the rear of engine. On the cooler there is also a vaccum unit. Its plastic. On mine I kept getting EGR flow errors and limp mode. EGR was working fine. I tracked it down to the plastic vaccum unit. It was sticking and not opening fully. It could also be the egr cooler thats choked. The plastic vaccum unit looks like this

Maybe a dirty or failing accelerator pedal sensor thats sending wrong info to ecu. Think they can be cleaned but never had the problem.