Alasdair1

Sounds like the accelerator pedal sensor is wearing out. When you depress the clutch I assume you take foot of accelerator which if its worn at a certain point would explain why car recovers. Alasdair

If its stopped and the oil marks were black then I reckon the additive you added has worked and its from engine. Maybe rocker cover etc. I would keep and eye on it and check levels regulary. The stop oil leak additives worked for a while with me a while ago but eventually started leaking again I had a failing crank seal that eventually got so bad I had to replace it. Alasdair

Havent come across any matrix failures on here so I assume not a very common problem. I used to drive volvo940/960 and they were very prone to a wet carpet and sweet smell. Its funny how attached to cars you get. Still have my old Octavia mk2 1.9tdi which I loved but rust set in and reckon it needs welding and a lot of TLC. It had loads of torque and when you wanted it to go and it went. Now a 1.6tdi MK2 but just not the same. Nice to drive but doesnt have that oomph at low speeds or revs. Saying that I would have another volvo 960 estate tomorrow but couldn't aford to run it or tax it. Good luck with garage and hopefully simple fix Alasdair

The last time I heard of a matrix removal and replacement it was a lot due to the labour involved. Hope they can repair it without dash removal. Alasdair

Don't suppose the steering wheel was removed. Maybe the connection to the spiral cable? Try and resetting it and see how long it takes to come on again. Might be long enough to get it through MOT. I disabled mine on an old toyota by unplugging crash sensor/airbag control unit with battery disconnected and the light went out.

Depending on what condition/mileage your car has done it might be worth trying Kseal. If its in really good condition I would see about replacing or checking matrix. I used it on an old toyota lucida with cracked head in desperation and it worked and lasted for about a year. Didn't have any problems with clogging heater matrix etc or any other cooling issues. I used it again after about a year and it lasted until I replaced cylinder head. You just add it to coolant and run car. Its around £15. I had cracks between the valves that caused coolant to fill piston and hydraulic the engine. Worked in about 1/2 hour. Check the condition of the hoses to the matrix first if you can and also the connections to and from just in case its a bad jubilee clip. Alasdair

Hope its an easy fix, Check the connections in engine compartment just in case its leaking there and running back through bulkhead to matrix. As said put a seperate post up to see if anyone has any tips or reccomendation re a sealant, Alasdair

I believe it requires the dash removed. You could by pass it in the engine bay but then no heat. Try puting a seperate post up re heater matrix replacement/leaking. Someone on here will have done one or have some tips. I wouldn't use radweld etc until your sure and I have heard that radweld etc can cause other problems. There may be a better leak sealer available, Alasdair

That may well be antifreeze. It leaves a dry pinkish white residue if using red antifreeze. Hope its just a jubilee clip or perished hose. Alasdair

Just wondering if the heater matrix has a leak? or perhaps the pipes feeding it. If your losing coolant and window is steaming up it might be where the coolant is going expecially if theres a sweet smell. Check that the carpets etc arent damp in the front. Not sure which side the heater matrix is on. I would check the wiring and connector for the temp sensor as said. Alasdair

My son in law is having problems as well. Try this https://www.haldexrepairs.co.uk/guide-generation-4-haldex-trouble-shooting/ Theres a lot of useful info on their site. One thing to check is the condition of the Haldex controler wiring socket. They can get coroded and send false signals to pump etc. The ecu for the haldex can also suffer from water ingress which causes similar symptoms as the circuit board can corode to. They can repair them as well if I remember. Alasdair

P0117 is as far as I know a low signal from engine temp sensor. As you have replaced thermostat and coolant sensor check the wiring/connector. Not sure if yours has as said has two. One for engine temp which sends to ECU. Normally green under engine cover and coolant sensor that operates fan which may be in coolant pipe somewhere? Does your temp guage work and what temp does it get to. Maybe someone on here will know for sure. I would make sure the connectors are clean and inspect wiring for breaks/short. Alasdair

Check where the drive shafts go into box plus underneath box itself. If its a amber colour It may not be engine oil unless yours has been changed recently. Any oil leak I have had is usually black/brown from engine unless its fairly recent oil change. Check the brake reservoir as well. It could be brake/clutch fluid. Alasdair

Keep an eye on it. The oil stop leak does work but I find that its not a permanent fix. I assume that its the engine oil you added it to but might be gearbox leak at drive shaft and level is now low so not leaking so much. Might be worth checking level on Gbox Alasdair

Had the same in an old fiat van. Would run and then stop randomly. Eventually it stopped completely Turns out the guy who had the van before had replaced cap as he losst original but it wasn't vented so caused a vacuum. My tank actually got pulled in and eventually blocked diesel uptake. I would never have worked it out but the tank looked like it had been crushed at the bottom. At least yours was a simple fix unlike mine that needed tank removed and blown out again.

Sounds very like mine was. Randomly when coming off throttle I heard a pop/blow off sound. Not as loud as something like an Mitsibushi evo but similar. Also had a slight whine like a siren in the distance before the pop alasdair

It may be the actuator itself that has failed or the fins in the turbo are jammed. Mine was overboosting but your fault code I think is underboost. Hopefully its just the actuator and not the turbo. Alasdair

Could be a stuck actuator on turbo or if its a variable fin one they could be carboned up. Mine used to go into limp mode due to actuator being stiff. I sprayed with penetrating oil and moved maanually for a good while and its been fine ever since. Used to go into limp mode randomly but if I stopped and started it again it was fine. Check the intercooler/pipes arent full of oil as well.

Thats not the kind of bill anyone needs but if it has to be done and the cars worth it then glad you got it fixed. At least you know that you have new everything and should be trouble free for years. I reckon when you factor in the price of the parts and labour plus the dreaded vat its fair enough. As said glad you got it fixed and no damage. I have seen a DMF that totalled the gearbox bell housing. Stopped to help a stranded car and there were bits of alloy housing everywhere. Looked like it had exploded. Alasdair

Very probably the spiral cable in the steeriing wheel. It connects horn,airbag etc. Its normally a flat cable thats coiled like a spring. Its normally the horn that goes first and then the airbag connection. You should be able to get a new cable or a complete unit. Make sure the battery is disconnected before removing wheel and airbag system. Alasdair

I used kseal on a toyota with cracked head. It did work very quickly and lasted for about a year. Never had problems with heater matrix but I ran car with water and citric acid for a good few weeks to flush out rust and gunge etc and then drained and flushed befor adding kseal. See if a magnet will pick up the coppery coloured fragments. If it does its iron/steel if not its copper/alloy It may have been the heater matrix that was leaking? I would try and flush it from engine compartment using a hose and see if water actually passes through it. Alasdair

You should be able to get one but it would have to come from Skoda dealer. Not sure how much but it will cost and probably be a special order. Other option is as you mentioned a used one/aftermarket and have two keys.Either way the transponder chip in ignition key would have to be swapped or new key coded. Alasdair

In the expansion vessle it looks suspiciously like Kseal or hyperseal etc. It leaves copper coloured fragments in coolant. It may have been added if the previous owner thought the head was cracked or HG had gone. Its supposed to be ok for heater matrix etc according to the instructions but if the matrix was partly clogged it could have finished the job and you have an airlock. I think an coolant flush etc would be on the cards. Alasdair

Not an expert but the clusters are coded and I think you need to retrieve old cluster code first. Then use VCDS to delete and recode to new cluster. Someone on here will be more experienced. Might be worth checking that the connections are compatible and there are actual wire connections for wiring to the new guages. Alasdair

MIght be worth unplugging MAF and cleaning contacts and reconnecting. I had a Volvo 940 that had a problem with the MAF but after cleaning connections it was fine. In my case it wouldn't rev more than 1500rpm Was a very slow drive home in first gear Alasdair