Alasdair1

Yes, Once you remove door card I think there were 3 screws then it pulls out with one wiring connector. I also had to replace window regulator system a short time after as the cable snapped. You have to remove steel plate in door for that. On mine the plate in door is riveted so had to drill out remove Then fitr repair kit. If you have to do it they are special rivets and you need a very heavy duty rivet gun to replace them. Not tricky either but a bit awkward. I got my motor repaired. If you are looking for a second hand one be wary as there are a lot from LHD vehicles on ebay etc. They will not fit a RHD car. Same if ordering from Autodoc etc. Check the part number on the old one first. I cant remember if RHD parts start with 6Q1 or 6Q2 but make sure you get the correct one. The rest of the part number is the same apart from the 1 or 2. Alasdair

I replaced my sons switch first as the easier option but didn't cure the problem. His drivers side window either didn't work or was jittery. Can't remember if the passenger side was jittery as it never really got used. If passenger window is fine with its switch but both windows are jittering with the new switch from drivers side only it may be the motor/control unit unless you got a defective switch which is highly unlikley. Not sure exactly how it works but the drivers door unit controls both passenger and drivers window motors. I would also check the wiring from door pillar to door in case theres a broken wire or bad connection. Alasdair

I assume yours is the same as my sons. One switch on passenger side for its window and two on drivers side. He doesnt have elctric rear windows If the drivers side motor electronics fail it also stops the passenger side as well. My sons passenger window was fine before they both stopped. It was the drivers side that was either jittery or just wouldn't work randomly. I doubt its the window regulator mechanism on both windows as you said its only when the drivers side is used.

Before ordering a new stalk it might be worth trying to bypass the old one to see if it actually is the switch. or use a multimeter to check it. It could be wiring related. I assume the hazard switch bypasses the stalk?? If its not the window switch it could be the drivers side window motor/control that is failing. It supplies and controls the passenger side as well. My sons failed eventually and both windows stopped working. I got it repaired very quickly on here by breezy_pete. Alasdair

Not harsh at all. Its your car and your money. How someone can give a fixed quote without looking/checking or knowing the engine would worry me in the first place. Once got a quote to replace timing belt on a Toyota lucida people carrier. Seemed very fair price until the garage realised that it involved removing front seats and floor pan plus front Aux shaft just to get to timing cover. They had no clue the work that was involved. When I took it in they made up some excuse and said they couldn't do it after all as they thought it was the petrol version even when I had told them it was a 2.2 3cte turbo diesel. Probably just as well they didn't get the job. My local garage(retired now) used to always inspect cars before giving a price unless they had worked on the car before. Alasdair

Your not the first one to miss a blown fuse. Keep a few spare in the car in case it happens again. Fuses will degrade over time and can blow sometimes for no reason. If it blows again then further investigation may be needed. Hopefully it was something simple like a frozen window etc. Alasdair

If the hazards are working then the earth and wiring to the lights should be ok. I would think it might be the switch or connector on the indicator stalk. Alasdair

You should be able to flush matrix from the pipes into and out of engine bay. Mine did similar but it needed the control flaps reset. It had climatronic system. With ignition on but not running press ECON and I think bottom left airflow button. The control flaps then reset by themselves. On mine there was a weird clicking noise from behind dash before heater stopped working. Alasdair

Another option would be to use a seperate 12v supply to the connector. You would need to know which wire is wich but it looks like three so I assume 1 is earth and the other two are open or close? Edit Had a quick look at haynes for my mk2 1.9tdi but no sunroof wiring diagram. Saying that all the earths shown are either black or brown in the wiring diagrams Maybe someone on here can tell you which wire does what.

Maybe blocked inside and pin not clearing it. Dont think theres a non return valve unless its inside the motor assemble. I would remove nozzle completely and try with a thin piece of wire. If its completely blocked I think you can get replacement nozzles. Alasdair

Looks like an allen key in white plastic section left of the sticker. Try turning it slowly. My seat has the autolock on as well but its faulty and keeps clicking off and on as you drive. Think its wiring/contacts in the drivers door/handle. Never did work out how to disable it. Try switching autolock fuction off and see if it helps. It could be stuck in the lock position.?? Edit Have you another key. Might be worth trying it or replacing battery in fob? Alasdair

Looks like the rubber seal that goes on spindle on outside of car to seal around glass but other place it could be is does the water feed hose clip into position. It may be the seal between the black plastic bit with four screws and the white/black section after the pipe? Is it a new wiper motor assembly that you fitted or a second hand one? Alasdair

Reckon thats the difference with a diesel. Not Ulez compliant but we rarely are in any zones. Best I got with the 1.9tdi was 72mpg on a long careful run. Best I have had with the 1.6tdi is 51mpg although seems to be getting better mpg since I changed oil and filter. No idea why unless it had the wrong oil in it before. Car also running better and warming up faster?? Alasdair

Get the car read for fault codes. It could be failing cam sensor etc. If the glow plug light is flashing then the car will probably go into limp mode hence no power. I think its linked to engine management but you would need codes if any to help track it down. Alasdair

My drive shafts are the same. No play at all apart from a very slight amount on drivers side if I try to turn shaft. Probably less than 0.25mm and nothing from side to side. No leaks etc. Is yours leaking grease from the CV boot or oil from Gbox? My old Octavia had a tiny little split and covered the front end and wheel with grease. Managed to catch it before it wrecked the joint. Have noticed my wobble seems to be worse on rougher tarmac and when cornering so now thinking might be front shocks although why it only happens when accelerating??? They both seem fine with no misting of oil etc but just wondering if they may be past it but how to check is another problem. Alasdair

Not sure but I had a clicking sound from near the middle of dash. I think it might be air control flaps/motor? It mainly happened when I switched engine off. It also made a low whine like noise. Never did get to the bottom of it. Alasdair

Try disconnecting ABS control wiring and clean an reconnect and check cables It might be just a poor connection or a probem with the ABS unit. Alasdair

Fingers crossed.Hopfully its a permanent fix. Alasdair

Keep an eye on it. Hopefully it should improve and your oil loss gets better. Depending on how much piston soak used it might be better to change the oil as well. Not sure if the soak would have drained down into sump and what effect it has on oil? Depending on how bad the gunge build up it may need a repeat soak? Alasdair

The MOT may not have picked up a bad/leaking servo/hose. As long as the brakes are equal and upto a certain standard it would pass. A check I used to do was pump brakes until firm then start engine. If pedal drops slightly more then servo working. No guarantee that the servo is perfect but at least some vaccum. As far as brake pads go I have been using Apec for the last couple of years. So far they have been good and work well. Think they do different grades for different driving style. Have a look at Apec red and Apec black. https://apecautomotive.co.uk/pads/ Alasdair

Check the vaaccum hoses to servo. My sons had cracked and his brakes were really poor. He said that not a lot happened when he braked. I taped up the pipes on a temp basis and made a big improvement. It could also be sticky pistons/calipers

Hi there, was looking at this the other day and it might help. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/341913-fabia-14-16v-bbz-egr-throttle-clean-out-advice/ Alasdair On my 1.9tdi there is an EGR cooler as well as EGR valve. There is seperate valve attached to the cooler at rear of engine. Not sure if yours has similar. Mine was insufficient flow due to stickin valve on cooler. Alasdair

Just a thought. Do the hazards work ok? Alasdair

As said check earths and connections at light clusters and bulbs, plus change bulb thats not working. It could be the indicator stalk itself thats failed? You should be able to bypass the switch to check but would need to know what wire does what. Maybe someone on here could help with a wiring diagram/picture. Sorry my haynes maanual is in my sons car at moment and hes away.

Thats not pleasant but at least its fixed. Still probably cheaper than new/second hand cluster and having it coded and less hassle. Hope its fine now. Odd that both had failed. Alasdair