J.R.

OK, I understand now having read the column on the right, they tell you how to wire it in and where to splice into the existing loom, strange that they would give the connectors numbers. Can you tell me the VCDS name for the coding parameter and where it is found just in case I have it on the Yeti.

So is U10 a factory fitted 13 min trailer socket or a 13 pin generic socket that a 7 or 13 pin trailer socket can be connected to with a suitable adaptor? The waters are muddied by F216, the cut out switch is normally inside the trailer socket, that they have given it a connector number makes me think its within E10 and the towing socket is fitted as standard. Can you put me right? I searched in vain hoping to find a factory socket containing the wire feeds I needed for my Yeti, I could not find one but that doesn't mean it isn't there, I'll be peeved to learn that it is but it would enable me to remove 2 wires running across the rear and some splice connecters, albeit Molex glycerin filled telecoms ones but vulnerable nonetheless and a potential problem.

Not essential See above. I only use mine for cylinder head bolts, big end & main bearing cap bolts, flywheel bolts etc. I know all the manuals give tightening torques for everything but thats to cover their backside from hamfisted Popeyes, I know the Autodoc videos always show a torque wrenh being used on almost every fastener for the same reasons but dont kid yourself that is what professional mechanics do, they rely on their sense of feel. Or rather they did before they started using battery impact wrenches for everything.

Any one of the Factory OE suppliers with a supply contract at that time.

I am always suspicious of garages that say they did a pressure test and there was (they found) no leak, I dont think most of them understand the principles of aerostatics and fluid statics, if there is a pressure drop over time then there has been a leak of fluid or air from the system or tester, many think that if they cannot see fluid then there is not a leak. More compact?

Simple answer is I dont know, I have never had a DSG but have often read of the second DSG stat on here, hopefully others will explain what it does as I would be guessing or Googling and as I rail at others that do that to sound knowledgeable I prefer to state my ignorance.

I might be having a senior moment but I thought the turbo intercooler was an air to air heat exchanger so even if it had a tiny leak I cant see how that would pressurise the cooling system. I do hope that they havnt been playing parts bingo with you. A leaking EGR cooler is a possibility but that should have shown up on the pressure test, the thing that may not would be a combustion leak from the head gasket and I would have expected them to have done a gas sniff test before emptying your wallet on things which were not causing the problem.

Google how to reset the linkage. Prepare to do the job and have someone select all the gears while you watch the quadrant move under the bonnet, you might need to remove air filter etc for access, the idea of this is so you can see how to select the gears by the quadrant without the selector cables. Disconnect the cables and try manually selecting the gears (with the engine stopped) they should all select without resistance, if they do then lubricate the cables and reset the linkage. If they dont then lubricate the selector spigot, lubing and resetting the linkage might also bring some relief but there could be an internal problem, pretty rare though I think. from what you have said it does not sound like a dragging clutch.

Your logic is sound, I had not appreciated that you had swapped the bulbs, I probably did not read carefully enough, I only dip in and out in the odd 5 minute break. Apologies!

Having read through again carefully it could be that it only works like that where the squab is split into two parts 60/40 or 50/50, the full width bench seat might be secured with traditional fixings. My parents 1967 Viva HB Estate had a full width bench rear seat but the squab on that folded forward to allow the rear to drop making a level load compartment.

You have the wrong double filament bulb or it is incorrectly inserted although you would have to try hard to do that, your conclusion from trying the other bulb housing is illogical, it would have been more revealing to have swopped the rogue bulb with the one from the other side.

Overruled! 😆

It only needs a small amount of clag or a small foreign body to become pinched in the mouth of the thermostat to give the problem you have, it may not even need the new thermostat. I would whip out both thermostats, inspect and test them before buying any replacement.

At the point where it is going to cost them money instead of making them money.

You probably have to grab the base and pull it forward/upwards before it will yield to being tipped forward. It can then be removed completely for more loading length and volume in the rear footwell by springing the hinge rods out of their locations. I bought my MK1 Octavia from a chauffeur pal, he had driven passengers usually single business travellers to airports for 3 years and 188000 miles, he said to me the only problem is the rear seats dont fold down flat because the squabs do not tip forward, without any RTFMing I had the squab released and tipped forward and a flat load platform in 5 seconds, I had no idea how they would release simply that they must do. Equally I knew that the squabs could be removed by hand without tools even though it was not clear to see how they would, from the images above I can see its exactly the same system.

The above is incorrect, water temperature is still regulated by a wax capsule thermostat, more than one in the case of a DSG vehicle, the sliding sleeve prevents circulation to provide a faster warm up for emissions and quicker cabin heating response, there is an additional electric water pump to circulate the water through the heater and I think the EGR cooler during the warm up phase when the sleeve is deployed. I think everybody is correct in the diagnosis of a sticking impellor sleeve or its actuator but if you have a DSG vehicle you should also look at the DSG thermostat which will be cheaper and easier to replace. You should also be aware that the temperature guage is software driven with an algorithm that means it will show a rock steady 90°c at any temperature between 70° and 110°, thats a guesstimate it might be +/- 10 or 15°c, whatever it is there is no point watching the guage like a hawk to see small temperature fluctuations, they simply do not register, it will sit at 90°c or drop sinificantly above or below it when the threshold is exceeded.

If it goes into reverse easily when the engine is not running then its likely to be clutch drag, try it a few times rolling the car forward a foot or so because you may just have stopped in a position where the reverse gear dog or baulk ring would obstruct the selection. I dont know what system your gearbox has but for the former a dragging clutch would result in a graunching when selecting a gear, for the latter just a stubborn refusal to engage. Always worth resetting the linkage and easy to do.

It is not the Canbus system causing errors, bulbs are universally misnamed Canbus compatible. Canbus had been in cars for years without people even realising, over 12 years of owner repairs and maintenance I never discovered that my MK1 Octavia had some Canbus communications, as soon as people started farting around with LED bulbs for "the colour they want" and the manufacturers started mislabelling their products then the misinformation started. But for LED bulbs and peoples desire to look different they would not even have heard of the term Canbus and from reading myriad threads like this it appears the majority of them have a completely wrong understanding of what it is.

To extort more money from the pigeon.

Examples please.

It works well on Octavia Estates, works so well on hatchbacks that much weaker die springs need to be used, it will not work on the Yeti because of the geometry of the vertical rear hatch. One issue is the springs rattling around and sliding down with a clonk when the tailgate is opened, I resolved it neatly by retaining and hiding them with heat shrink tubing but it did not last long. Another issue is damage whenremotely opening the tailgate in a garage or car park or low ceiling height car park.

Fixed that for you.

What sensors?

The connector is on the pump actuator, you will need to remove the upper timing belt cover to see it.

Easy enough to remove although for the life of me I could not see where the retaining clips were on mine, expensive to replace but easy to repair with a fine temp controlled soldering iron.