J.R.

Did they regas it or simply tell you what you already knew? The problem may be the pressure sensor, an easy replacement not requiring regassing. The modulating valve, only available as an aftermarket part and requires the refrigerant vaccuming down to replace and subsequent regassing. The pulley drive shear plate broken or the alloy hub stripped. VCDS will diagnose the first one, if there is not a compressor shut down code then it will be one of the others.

Agreed and the ones fitted new to the vehicles are of a higher quality than the identical unit sold on the OEM market, something I had always suspected which was confirmed by a battery manufacturing expert who used to be on this forum. IMO its worth looking after and coaxing the maximum life out of the original fitment battery as it should/can have double the life of any replacement barring any accidental severe discharge and even then its likely to be damaged far less by that than a replacement.

Yes I would much prefer to have the previous PD engine or even the completely simple ALH I think it was from my MK1 Octavia in the Yeti. The CR engine is very smooth and silent by comparison to the PD but no better really than the ALH. I recall the alternator failing on the journey to Dover, I took the chance and continued on to the ferry and then on to my home in France and was staggered to see that the battery voltage had hardly dropped, I subsequently drove it while waiting for a brush pack to be delivered on 300 mile journeys because I had calculated from the volt drops that it was good for 500 miles. The only battery power consumed when driving was the ECU and a couple of sensors plus the fly by wire throttle, totally mechanical fuel injection yet smooth and silent. Plus the dashboard did not become fault code city if the battery voltage dipped for a micro-second like the later vehicles.

No "more" about it, I have expected every car since the 90's to drive consistently and none have failed in that measure, kinda takes the excitement out of motoring and I no longer get the pleasure of tuning an engine to run like a sewing machine but its a small price to pay for reliability. One more reason, not that I need any more, for me to never buy anything newer than what I have and I would much prefer that to have been EU4 or EU3 but to have a Yeti meant accepting more complication, it still drives consistently though.

A starter motor will not fail from being removed and refitted, that it gets hot when jammed shows that the full current is flowing, your brother is likely not testing it correctly with jump leads, does it get hot when it clicks now? It is possible that you burnt it out by engaging it while jammed. I have used the word "jammed" twice, the only thing that has changed is the flywheel and its ring gear, I suspect they are incorrect or incompatible with your starter motor pinion, that is where your brother should look before buying a new starter that may not be needed and possibly burning that out as well. Frankly a mechanic should not need that advice and should automatically suspect a problem with or incompatibility of the new part fitted.

A starter motor will not fail from being removed and refitted, that it gets hot when jammed shows that the full current is flowing, your brother is likely not testing it correctly with jump leads, does it get hot when it clicks now? It is possible that you burnt it out by engaging it while jammed. I have used the word "jammed" twice, the only thing that has changed is the flywheel and its ring gear, I suspect they are incorrect or incompatible with your starter motor pinion, that is where your brother should look before buying a new starter that may not be needed and possibly burning that out as well.

You need all the power in first and second gears! 😲 What do you use it for, pulling out tree stumps or drag racing? The ECU has a torque limitation parameter (can be viewed in VCDS) in the lower gears to protect the transmission and reduce the unpleasant interaction of the electronic traction control systems, unless your vehicle is 4x4 the FWD would struggle to transmit full power in first and second gear on anything but perfect road conditions.

The ignition system is never fused on a vehicle or at least never used to be, it has/had a fusible link section of wiring in the loom to burn out before the battery can set the whole loom on fire, usually too late, this was done because the engine running is considered mission critical, the airbags and pretensioners etc equally so, I would not be surprised to find they are not fused. In any case anythin that prevents their operation like fuse removal or even a short comms disconnection will trigger a latched MIL light and fault code.

F***k that for a game of soldiers!!!!! I'm sticking to old school vehicles.

Aperture S has given the correct chapter and verse answer. I was going to ask did you actually know if these fuses were in place before and had actually been removed? Also to say that if that were the case then the airbag warning light would illuminate and remain so even after the power had been restored requiring the fault code to be reset using VCDS or similar. The pyrotechnic pretensioners are an important integral safety feature and if disabled by removing the operating voltage would trigger the warning system

Cor, thats goin fast innit!

Your problem will almost certainly be the solenoid actuated sliding shroud of the water pump sticking, a very common fault, if when its behaving normally (not overheating) you remove the wiring harness connector it will remain in the non shrouded position and give no further incidences of overheating although the warm up time and the time for the heater to give out heat will be significantly increased in winter weather. Not a problem for now!

I chose my words very carefully and said "appeared to have gone up" If you start with an indicated range of 1024 kms and after driving 1.5 / 2 hours lets say 200km it still indicates a range of 1024 kms then the range for the full tank as indicated has appeared to have gone up from 1024kms to 1224kms, it wont have as the fiddle factor program steals range from when the level drops below approx 3/8 of a tank so that when it shows zero mile remaining there will be a "virtual reserve" capacity of 5-7 litres still remaining, which I predict in your case (dependant on driving conditions and journey profiles) would happen at 924kms and if you carried on driving as I do until close to running out you would have covered the 1024kms indicated when the tank was filled. The guage and range estimations are remarkably accurate when the tank is full (if you drive as you had been driving) but the cheating comes in beneath 3/8 of a tank, if you drive beyond the "zero miles/kms remaining" as I do then you can achieve the estimated range, I fill up when I have covered 600 miles = 1000kms and there is usually 1.5 litres left in the tank. You can check the exact fuel level in litres using VCDS, the sender unit and fuel computer are remarkably accurate right down to one or two litres remaining but only if you are looking at measuring blocks in VCDS, otherwise beneath 3/8 of a tank it starts stealing your fuel! I ran my MK2 Octavia out on test deliberately on the first tankfull to see what the real range would be, after it ground to a halt I put in the contents of a 5l jerrycan and was amazed to not only see it register on the guage but for it to show 30 miles range, amazing considering it can only have been maybe 1cm at the bottom of the tank, I was maybe one mile from the filling station, during that time the range dropped from 30 miles to 20, then 10 and the zero miles, it was clawing back the virtual reserve capacity.

Diesel knock. 2 so called mechanics diagnose "Engine done" without saying what has failed, best (least worst more like) mechanic says its a broken crankshaft 🥴 I have never known an engine to be able to run let alone drive a vehicle with a broken crankshaft, and I have seen many. Find someone who can either give a correct diagnosis or is not afraid to say "I don't know what is wrong with this one!" rather than BS.

The estimated range will have appeared to have gone up because this journey (cruising on autoroutes?) will be giving better MPG than the previous tankfull so it has recalculated. I have kept an eye on both MPG and range on all 3 of my skodas for the last 16 years so I am quite used to its foibles, I can also predict usually to within a couple of minutes when the low fuel warning will come on. Sad that my life should have come to this, the young J.R. would have had no time for this old fart!!

No it isn't! Despite how optimistic it is looking at present I guarantee that you wont see the 1024kms on that tankfull without driving 100kms with the computer saying zero kms remaining, let alone 1024 kms plus 1.5 hours driving.

On my MK1 the one and only time it ever refused to start in 325K miles was exactly the same symptoms, it was corrosion on the main battery lead tag attached to the starter motor, it had never been removed in 13 years! They bump or preferably tow start very easily.

A complete fabrication spoken by a garage (probably service receptionist) surely not!!! 😆 Do you have any proof that this new modified coupling to fix a known problem ( rubber bit swells or otherwise clogs up with gunge and jams in the steel ring) and which has to be greased during servicing actually exists other than in their repertoire of BS? I have a new coupling (still not fitted) and the 2015 original, they are identical right down to the moulded in part number and revision letter. But hey, I'm just a sceptic speaking from a position of complete ignorance

The simpler cure than that used by most manufacturers was to have a fibre insulator block between two paper gaskets to prevent heat soak from the engine block.

How does that work? Surely with the keys the alarm would be silenced and without them the car alarm would not be silenced by the seat belt, or did you mean the seat belt alarm? 💡 Come to think of it Twoccers would not wear a seat belt so they can do a fast decamp If I leave my keys in the ignition and my car is stolen in my confusion I would convince myself that it was locked and the spare keys were hidden in the vehicle. Never going to happen though as I only have TPO insurance.

Regarding the cost of the carte grise which can be crippling for a vehicle with a high CO2 rating (its actually rated by some archaic fiscal horsepower rating) if you wait till the vehicle is 5 years old (from initial registration) then the taxes come down considerably, my Yeti was 4 years old but they dragged their heels so long with the registration that I ended up saving a fortune!

Doors are deadlocked, perhaps they broke a window just to see what they could grab from inside or maybe somehow they knew that the keys were in that compartment.

More than a year later on and 20k very tough miles towing overloaded removal trailers and everything is still fine and dandy with the clutch, no air drawn into the system.

The OP did not say that fluid was leaking, but that air was being drawn into the system. On the assumption that it is a concentric slave cylinder then I know 100% what the problem is and it will require the gearbox removing to replace the cylinder, in fact it could be repaired for less than a penny but nobody even myself with the nickname Chancer would do that. Scroll through to where the photo in the link appears, there were several false leads in the initial part but the info may still be relevant.

Thats a big assumption considering that no mention was made of the main dealer and "Factory reset" probably meant the OP or someone else pressed a confirm button in response to a prompt saying "Reset to Factory settings" usually followed by "Warning! all previous saved settings will be lost"