J.R.

Interesting, a shame they dont use technical translators as some of the terms dont make sense until you make the connection, duct = port etc, also "charged" means something else like "in operation". What a truly overcomplicated piece of kit and its not even EU6 😲 I learned somethibg right at the end, the silicate teabag in the header tank is a preventative measure in case the system is filled with water and not G13 coolant. Mine looked like brown water recently, I removed the radiator, intercooler etc to replace the crashbar nearly 2 years ago and it looks like I refilled with water and forgot about it, 2 x 5 litres of G13 concentrated should arrive today, I was lucky last winter by the looks of things although I did buy and use a pen coolant tester.

Most MOT testers are not there to bust your balls & won't go looking for something that they probably agree with and would do themselves, if its in plain sight and could not be missed then they could well cover their backside. The only visible part is the new connector to the MAF sensor and the loom to it which looks identical to the stock one.

Old news, the recall was in 2016, took 5 years of pressure for them to do so though. Parts since 2012 allegedly modified to avoid potential problem: Identify How/When Recall Condition was Corrected in Production : Clock spring parts have been improved and implemented by running change as of December 2012 If you are concerned then wear a hairnet!

Not joking, the vehicles have far too much mass in general and concentrated over the front axle as it is. You cannot expect to put 220hp through any FWD vehicle drivetrain from a standstill let alonea heavy one in anything but perfect traction conditions, modulation of the throttle is necessary in the first instance and not a reliance on traction control systems. its a necessary driving skill that anyone who has driven any previous generation of FWD vehicle without electronic aids no matter how underpowered would either have mastered or have a history of crashes in snow & ice conditions.

An excellent description, one I concur with 100%

Are you having a laugh?

When I have run in competitions, semi-marathons and one marathon (bailed through injury at 32km) I hit the start button when passing under the start line on my Garmin, there were KM markers along the course and my watch would always beep within a few yards of all of them, sometimes before, sometimes after, at the end of a 21km semi it was rarely more than 50m out which I found amazing.

He explained very clearly his reason in the first post. I would have done it by disconnecting the shunt resistor cable from the battery lead.

I transported 6 full width and height 60 minute solid core fire doors in my MK1 Octavia from somewhere oop North (forget where) to France together with all my other stuff, toolboxes, backpack, cooler bins etc, the weight was the only issue. One door should cause no problems at all. I also brought five 2m doors pre-hung in their frames from France to the UK in the Octavia 2 together with all the other stuff.

There will be considerable load if the voltage is taken with the bonnet open, all the systems will be awake and there is likely to be 200ma or more current draw, if you remove a terminal its likely to give a big beefy flash. 12.2 is not a new battery but neither is it knackered, best to have it tested with either a load tester or an electronic battery tester while disconnected from the vehicle.

Thats easy, use your MK1 eyeballs to see if it has one or two auxiliary pumps fitted. And yes I do understand that if they are there they will not stand out amongst all the other guff, junk and rubbish that adorn modern engines, best to start with Google to find some images or better still the VAG self study guide.

I don't believe we have met so I do not consider myself your mate. I was correcting the assertion in the preceeding posting that in the summer the system does nothing and also giving the correct terminology for "positive temperature sensitive" (sic) To the best of my knowledge you can use the heating function whenever you desire but with limited power it will defrost or demist quicker than it will evaporate water droplets, no different to your heater on the screen defrost setting.

Congratulations! Shame about you being taken for a new turbo though.

That is a positive for me, it means that I can narrow my search for a replacement vehicle down to those with the lowest NCAP ratings! I very much like your opinion!

Agreed regarding oil sensor, the garage has done a very good job of cleaning up, especially trying to make old parts look like new 😆 The round thing looks to be the dogbone bush lower transmission mounting, someone will say that the oil will soften and swell it, as long as it has been cleaned it will be OK, they are all synthetic rubbers and highly resistant to petrochemicals. Oil filter is far too high up to have been damaged by a fixed object like a speedbump, its above the sump to engine block mating face.

They use a plain resistance without a Positive Temperature Coefficient thermistor, at least there is not one within the mirror assembly. It takes a lot more time & heat to evaporate water droplets than it does to defrost or demist, when I use mine for that on the autoroutes it can take 30 minutes plus and that is with assistance from the wind drying.

That is the old sump or another second hand one cleaned up, not sure about the filter but it definitely would not have been impacted. It's possible the oil sensor has been replaced, its the most vulnerable part. Should your car not be equipped with an undertray?

The long way involves a multimeter, fooling the vehicle that the bonnet is closed and a long wait for systems to close down. The quick and easy way is to use a cheap plug in LED voltmeter in the accessory socket that can be read through the windows an hour or so after the car is locked. Your battery will have been damaged by the discharge, not terminally but its life will be reduced, I did the same to mine by leaving the sidelights on (if it were headlights the BCM would have turned them off eventually) and my battery is weak, I have an LED voltmeter on all the time and I always check the voltage before getting in and starting, if its below 11v I will charge the battery before starting, it would probably start but would do further damage. The more I read about the "characteristics" of the new vehicles the more I think people must be crazy to want to buy one let alone getting angry because the delivery is delayed, if they cancel their order they should thank their lucky stars.

Native is appropriate terminology, I am a native speaker of English and I am a native of the UK. I was told in France by an English person, someone who would not be out of place in a Colonial setting, that "we heard you had gone native", to me the recipient that was offensive and inappropriate. Cheezemonkai, if you were referring to the use of "Colonial" then please forgive my misunderstanding and I agree with you, I will change the word if you wish.

I would say that they have fitted a pattern part waterpump that does not have the problematic electrically operated impellor shroud, your car is indeed displaying typical diesel warm up behavior but the shrouded water pumps when they function bring cabin heat through much earlier and reduce the time before the thermostat opens. I believe there is also an auxiliary electric coolant pump to circulate warm water through the heater when the main waterpump is shrouded, that is something else to look at. The VAG self study guide for your engine gives full details of how the system operates during the warm up phase, good diagrams, does a much better job than I ever could.

I thought that also with the pre DPF sensor temperature, what was concerning was the 58 minute regen duration, what is your interpretation of that?

You have started a wotisit? competition, we can tell you what it isn't, a sump or upper oil pan but need more photos hopefully with a part number to decide what it is, did you get an invoice for the repairs with the parts listed?

I have an electronic tester and an old school toaster element drop tester, both are best used as comparators and the more you use them the more familiar you become with them the better you are at judging a good from a bad battery without getting too hung up on the numbers. The electronic ones are useless if the battery is connected to the vehicle, disconnected successive tests on the same battery can yield major variations in the results even though they barely load the battery, I take several readings when the battery is new and record them, thereafter I use it as a comparator, the % life remaining displayed is pretty meaningless. The drop tester is better in experienced hands, to follow the instructions and use the display properly you must know the battery capacity and look really carefully at the green, orange and red segments as they have a staircase like progression from one to the next dependant on the capacity. I prefer to simply watch how quickly the voltage drops compared to the battery capacity or even watch the toaster element to see how quickly it glows and whether it maintains the glow. When I was in my teens I used to buy the best of the old exchange batteries from the petrol station, the guy I knew there who sold them to me for cash would test them by putting a shovel across both terminals and seeing how big the spark was, one fatefull day he did it after taking the battery off charge, he was nicknamed Nikki Lauda after that!!!! So with that in mind I never lend out my drop tester, only the electronic one.

As the first person to actually have a reason for why they adopt this procedure could you explain how it minimises the stress on the wheel bolts? Also having had failures is it the bolt or the adaptor that gets damaged?

Informative video, is it my computer or my ears because 99% of his speech was completely inaudible to me like so many other similar videos I presume recorded using a smartphone. Everything else in the house was silent, the whirr of the cooling fan on my laptop was much louder than the commentary, is it just me?