J.R.

I have never seen the app so have no experience but that photo says to me that your car is 58 minutes into a regen and has only burnt 47% of the soot and there are 11g remaining. A DPF warning light coming on, an hour to complete half a regen (2 hours plus for a full one?) less than 6 hours since the last regen sounds pretty terrible, do you only do short journeys?

9 months "emoty" 😆

It is not a service replacement, the whole module is replaced but if you are very determined like me you can break open the hermetically sealed ultrasonically welded case desolder and replace the battery, it is of a special size that is not produced or available commercially so you have to fit a smaller capacity one. Most including mine have leaked acid and destroyed the circuit board which has a very adverse effect, it creates a partial short which flattens the vehicle battery overnight hence my suggestion to disconnect it.

If it were me and my car I would have jerryrigged my Mityvac to the actuator on a test drive. Splicing it in with a T piece you could also see the vacuum on the guage and started pumping if it fell away. After testing the actuator with the Mytyvac first to see the full operating range.

Condom.

I have had a Garmin Forerunner 235 for about 3 years and am quite pleased with it, it's the ability to save your runs and 24 hour data of heart rate, steps, aerobic effort, sleep etc to a smartphone that I like, the watch alone can only give limited data which my eyes can't read anyway. The battery is getting old now and needs charging once a week. Several others in my running club have Garmin watches and are happy with them, most of them luddites and technophobes like me.

No need to pay garages just go for a drive if you hear the fans running at shutdown indicating a failed regen, it might have been 90% complete. Or go for a drive when you get the warning light on the dashboard and the instruction on the MFD to do so, if you have an MFD, you have not even said what your vehicle is or its engine type. The only time you would need to have a forced regen carried out is if you had ignored the warning lights and continued driving until the vehicle went into limp mode to protect the DPF from becoming too clogged to be regenned.

If the wheels were stolen it would be for the new or newish tyres on them, dependant on where you live and/or leave your car parked for work etc the (not very) security wheelbolts might give some comfort, to me they are a pain and a liability if the adaptor gets lost or misplaced. You don't need to get on your knees to see that my wheels have the standard security bolts, the plastic covers are larger and round than the hex shaped ones for the normal bolts.

It doesn't need to be done by a main dealer, there are plenty of people who offer the service on E-bay. Be aware though that they will be cloning your existing key, possibly a problem if it is to replace an original key that was lost or stolen as it could still open and start the vehicle, paying the main dealer price means the lost key could no longer start the car, if they do their job properly. Mine was done on a Sunday afternoon by an Albanian who answered the door of what looked like a squat, he took my only key and dissapeared inside to cut it, it dawned on me that if he had broken into the house from the rear I was stranded and he had stolen my vehicle!!!!! He came out after a few minutes with a couple of hand held devices to plug into the OBDII port, copy the immobiliser data from the existing key and program the chip on the cloned one, cost about £50 IIRC, a fifth of the dealer price.

A differing wheel rim diameter does not mean that the rolling diameter of the tyre will be different, conversely you could search for a 17" space saver wheel and find that its much smaller, the rolling diameter is a function of the rim diameter, width and the tyre section, if you have the time you should search for the closest equivalent to your existing wheels. I have 16" rims but I chose an 18" space saver spare to get the closest rolling diameter and higher load capacity, boy is it heavy though, the rim is 5mm thick and the tyre feels solid like a fork lift truck tyre.

I never had any dash lights for limp mode after sticking turbo vanes on my MK1 non PD TDi and my MK2 PD TDi but it was a real rarety on the MK2 and may not even have been sticking vanes, both vehicles always responded to my automatic default cycling of the ignition switch. Thanks for the explanation, I had not gone through the graphs & things, difficult for me to read.

Loads of people, one screw through the handle then yank the panel off.

Agreed, from the description it sounded like there was no boost. I had a blocked catalytic convertor on my Galaxy, albeit a petrol engine, it was driving fine before I went to Australia for a month, when I got back & drove it I was jet lagged so driving slowly anyway but it didn't feel right, on the M25 the next day it was gutless just as the OP described & then on an incline a hose (some emissions device) blew off the exhaust manifold & made a farting noise.

At 1/4 of your mileage my car with the same engine as yours would not pull the skin off a rice pudding, I was driven to action when the engine started shuddering on shutdown, a sign that the inlet tract and butterfly was clogged with clag from the excess of EGR after the emissions fix. It was indeed totally clagged up and had made the vehicle totally asthmatic, it was transformed after carefull cleaning of the throttle body and inlet tract. I then fitted an EGR emulator/simulator to stop any recycling of the gases so it won't crud up again, I also had a remap to an alleged 184hp which is probably the standard factory 170 hp map, it now has the mid range overtaking punch that it always lacked. Given your high mileage you should definitely have a look and declag its respiratory tract if needed.

Messy yes, very messy for someone like me that always seems to be in the thick of it, but very very rewarding I find. I like being self sufficient, hate running out and having to order, hate paying the prices, hate it when the things dry out through lack of use, hate it even worse when I have bought spares and they are blocked straight out of the sealed package. I love recycling an empty cartridge or resuscitating one that has blocked.

This can happen when the vacuum pipes to the turbo actuator become degraded and can collapse under the vacuum when there is a lot of heat generated, it also needs a miniscule leak downstream of the collapsed pipe for the vacuum to be lost and the actuator returning to its base position. Yours sounds quite advanced but its following exactly the same characteristics, in the lower gears boost is not held very long and the temperatures are lower, the longer and steeper the hill, the hotter the day, the more load you are carrying the quicker it will occur but it is always a total loss of boost which can usually be regained by cycling the ignition but if you dont back off and the load & heat are unchanged it will collapse again double quick. Something else to check which costs very little to replace if they are suspect. This can happen when the vacuum pipes to the turbo actuator become degraded and can collapse under the vacuum when there is a lot of heat generated, it also needs a miniscule leak downstream of the collapsed pipe for the vacuum to be lost and the actuator returning to its base position. Yours sounds quite advanced but its following exactly the same characteristics, in the lower gears boost is not held very long and the temperatures are lower, the longer and steeper the hill, the hotter the day, the more load you are carrying the quicker it will occur but it is always a total loss of boost which can usually be regained by cycling the ignition but if you dont back off and the load & heat are unchanged it will collapse again double quick. Something else to check which costs very little to replace if they are suspect.

The vehicle will consume less than 30ma, probably less than 20ma once it has gone into sleep mode. What probably happened is that the current drawn by the dashcam prevented the other systems from shutting down and the current draw would have been even more than you think. You cannot use the entire theoretical battery ampere hour capacity, using only 15-20% of it will drop the voltage so low (10.5v) that if the vehicle were even to start (unlikely) the battery would be permanently damaged. I thought you said there were no accessories on the vehicle? Glad that you got to the bottom of it though.

British honey is not allowed in Yorkshire 😲 Do you want someone to smuggle you some in? 😆

Is this a new or second hand module that you are trying to fit to your vehicle?

Is there not a dedicated DPF warning light to tell you to go on a drive at elevated revs? Mine has only come on once when the engine was being started & stopped & the car driven on and off the drive frequently during the crash repairs but it was unmistakenly an exhaust filter symbol. It may even have given me instructions via the maxidot display but I could have imagined that.

If you say so. "You're therefore wrong to assume that in all cases the LED's will completely turn off after 30 minutes to an hour." Were I to have had said that.

I eat a lot of fruit, breakfast is always jumbo porridge oats with fruit salad (home made) and fromage blanc, I used to mash 1/2 a banana into the porridge with rock salt (my only salt intake of the day) to make it a bit sweeter and have used honey when I had no bananas. Now I have discovered pate de dattes (date paste) which is very convenient, I use a lot less of it and never buy bananas now, a block of it lasts a couple of months. It does not need storing in the fridge and can be used anywhere that honey or sugar would be. Some people use it instead of sugar in their coffee or tea and Morrocan Pattiseries use it a lot, it's much healthier than processed sugar Worth a try if you can find it.

Incorrect Canbus does not monitor bulbs, it is the communications protocole between modules one of which (various names, comfort control, body control module etc) will monitor external bulb filaments, the alarm module may monitor the interior lights but probably simply the battery voltage drop. When the doors are closed and locked there is no current through the interior lights after the courtesy delay. It's possible that the delay is a resistor capacitor timing circuit using the bulbs as the resistance but were that the case the LEDs would be fully lit for the extended period. 15 minutes is not long enough for all the systems to go to sleep and I reckon if the OP looks after 30 minutes or an hour the glow will no longer be present.

I had the same engine, I changed the thermostat but it made only a slight improvement, if the engine sits at 70°C its probably stuck partially open with a bit of detritus but you would have some heat in both hoses in that case. Mine would take 4 miles before the heater was working well but the stat would never open on very cold days unless I drove on an autoroute or gave it some beans up a hill, once opened and the water circulating the temperature regulated well. The MK2 Octavia PD engine was better but still a long warm up time on cold days, bottom line is the TDi engines have a high thermal efficiency and on a cold day with the heater on full and airflow through the radiator even without circulation through the radiator they overcool with the circulation through the heater matrix. My Yeti with the sliding sleeve waterpump is dramatically better, heater gives out warm air after one mile and the temp is up to 90°c within 2 or 3 miles even on the coldest of days. That comfort and efficiency comes at a price of reliability though, the water pumps are the achilles heel.

Children not getting their way.