J.R.

You are claiming for issues, failing EGR's & loss of MPG for a car which you sold soon afterwards & didn't suffer any, the subsequent owner would be the one to suffer a loss if it happens, is it only the original purchasers of these vehicles that can make a claim? It's a funny old world if the first owners who don't suffer a loss are compensated for the losses of those who buy the vehicles second hand. It would be even funnier though if every owner could tap up VW, I could then claim for my 2015 Yeti even though I knew exactly what I was buying.

How much do you consider that you lost when you sold it soon afterwards over and above the depreciation that it would normally have suffered?

If you mean that the airbag light is not always on, perhaps only for 30 seconds after moving off then I think that may be normal, my Yeti did it and when it went out I realised that it must be part of the self test & that I am not usually looking at the middle of the dash when driving away, I am blind in one eye so have a narrower field of vision, when I am focussing ahead I would not notice the small light extinguish in my peripheral vision.

I have asked this before perhaps in a more general posting, not been able to find a solution for long time and it is now an urgent thing for me to resolve. In the VCDS long coding helper for the Central Electric module there is an option to do the above, its called something like "Alarm siren delay when key unlocking (Thatcham), trouble is the same option appears under 2 different bytes, I have tried enabling one, the other and then both and it still does not work unless like many things in VCDS it is incorrectly named. What I want it to happen is when the car is locked by key or remote & the alarm activated if I unlock the door with a key there to be a delay before the alarm sounds for me to put the ignition key in the ignition to disable the alarm. Why? Well its so that I can leave the keys hidden in the car when I am running or trekking, I have a dumb key blank (no transponder) hidden in an accessible place to open the door but not to drive it away if a thief found it. The hardest part was finding a way to lock all the doors whilst leaving the keys inside. I have the security that I want but the cost is the alarm siren drawing attention to myself every time I open the vehicle with the dumb key and an onlooker seeing where I subsequently stash it. I would like to retain the alarm if I could, it works, does not false alarm and functions if someone jacks the car up, if I can resolve the delay coding problem it would also go off (after the delay) if someone else used the dumb key to enter the vehicle. I have been trying 6 months to resolve this. Thanks in anticipation!

On what reader? If its a generic OBDII reader then it wont, you need something dealer level like VCDS to interrogate the fault codes in stored in the ABS, Haldex controller modules etc.

The horn is driven from the comfort control module,m(ight be called the body control module) from the horn push input t the clockspring module via canbus, gone are the days when you could simply hot wire things to fault find. When the clockspring was replaced was it coded correctly (or at all!) and was the airbag fault code deleted after powering up?

Off side front and near side front, usually referring to the roadwheels. For the UK where people drive on the left of the road near side (nearest the kerb) is the left and offside is the right. OSF = right front wheel (AVD en Francais) NSR = left rear wheel. (ARG en Francais)

The washers are not needed but are a nice touch, if the spring is glued to remain at the top support it wont remain there for long, I retained mine with heatshrink tubing but that still broke up after a couple of months, having them loose is no big deal other than aesthetics and them sometimes sticking then dropping and sounding like Zebedee!! £30 sounded expensive until I realised that you replaced the struts as well. Its a mod that I would like to do on my Yeti but I dont think the geometry would allow it, if it did the spring would have to be so strong that I would not be able to close the boot.

Tiny and I mean tiny spring reseating in wiper motor (impossible)

I can be reasonably confident in saying that your problem will not be spark plug related.

That believe it or not is the standard behaviour from what I have read, closing the bonnet resets it, I dont know if it would come on again in the same journey

These software screw ups or comms errors are no laughing matter now that they are affecting critical safety systems.

Yes, I was referring to my 2 installs with Chinese head units.

I find that they give a much more stable image when powered all the time the ignition is on instead of using the feed from the radio which is triggered via canbus from the reverse gear selection, with that there is often a delay and/or freeezing of the image. The downside is if the camera has LED night vision illumination like my current one using visible spectrum white LEDS and not infra red you will be permenantly showing a white light to the rear and disturbing drivers behind even in daylight. It was easy for me to disable the LED's and the night vision with the standard reversing lights is more than adequate, better than the CCTV systems that I installed up to 2004.

How many miles has it done since and how is the plastidip holding up against stone chips please?

They will not be concerned with anyones opinion, your scenario would not exist other than in your imagination.

A clue of what the tool is and how it was used would be very appreciated, I'm not a fan of puzzles but I do have enough PDR repairs to do to last the summer.

Russ Swift excepted

The engine covers can develop a rattle as the inner part becomes loose on its clips. When the aux belt tensioner starts jumping its normally a failure of the one way clutch on the alternator pulley which can make a lot of noise itself, it can be tested by putting a socket or ring spanner on the centre nut, it should turn freely in one direction and lock up in the other. I couldn't listen to the sounds as it was asking me for a google password.

Drum brakes are superior to discs in almost every way except for the really important one - heat dissipation, for that reason disc brakes are now used in almost 100% of front axle braking systems but unless the vehicle is capable of overheating the rear brakes then drums would be better than discs on the rear, if maintained properly. The great advantage of drums is their self servo ability with twin leading shoes, brake servos only came into being with the advent of front disc brakes, this advantage is diminished on leading & trailing shoe set up needed for most handbrake mechanisms. You cant beat drum rear brakes for handbrake efficiency, I think the stunt drivers must use hydraulic handbrakes if they retain the rear discs on modern vehicles, its been decades since I could do a decent handbrake turn on a dry grippy road without risking snapping or stretching the handbrake cables.

Rate of change I could buy into, but not the optimal mapping for lambda 1 closed loop control. But then the ECU is already programmed to react to the rate of change of the control inputs from the vehicle controls. Emissions control will always over-ride fast control inputs. We can agree that the assertion "Modern cars learn your driving style and then it's fixed!" is bull****

Do you really believe that? If we accept that your car does learn your driving style what do you consider it does about it?

Is that a question? If so the answer is I doubt it, when I spoke of the HVAC control unit its because the canbus module in VCDS is called HVAC, it really means the canbus controller node within the Climatronic unit which communicates with the ECU etc and is interrogated via VCDS.

The story has taken me back 35 years to a formative moment in my life when I did a Luke while pulling out a tree stump with my Shogun, I did not have a father as a mentor but the sub-conscious influence of my deceased mother made me do the right thing even though as someone who had to duck & dive to survive from a really early age it was against all my instincts. I never regretted it and was repaid in spades decades later by the now deceased neighbour.

The fans are definitely commanded resulting from the rise in the high side pressure, it can be seen very clearly on a manifold guage set, once it goes above the nominal pressure shown in the charts the fans cut in and the pressure drops & it then cycles with the pressure oscillating around that required. The HVAC control unit must take the input from the pressure sensor and also compare it to the ambient temperature (and no doubt lots of other variables) when deciding what pressure threshold to turn on the fans. I think that VCDS will probably show a compressor shut down code when the fans cut out and the cooling stops.