J.R.

At that exchange rate I will buy as many £'s as you can sell me Or I can simply wait a year and thats what the rate will be

Tool needed for the rears. For front pad material I would have recommended Ferodo Eco Friction which transformed my Octavia giving much more initial bite & a feeling of confidence but on the Yeti with new discs like the Octvavia they have not made much of a difference if at all.

I checked that and the guidance on the new test requirements was published May 2018 including : There are new failures for: There are new failures for: brake lining or pad wear for: the indicator being illuminated But the guidance was withdrawn: This guidance was withdrawn on 13 June 2019 This guidance was published to help MOT testers prepare for changes made to the MOT test on 20 May 2018. The guidance is no longer current. It is not being updated. Make of that what you will!

What is illegal about driving with an underinflated tyre? And in order to answer that you first have to define what is underinflated. The law regarding tread depth for instance is well defined.

If the stop start is disabled by disconnecting the sensing wire to the battery I thought that I read that the battery charging reverts to the normal 13.7v profile hence a normal battery can be safely used. Or did I dream it?

You understood exactly what I meant as I'm sure most people did including those who could start a fight in an empty house. There is a potential to misunderstand where I said "there is only so much you can do.............." which related to the car manufacturers having chosen a common suspension design across very different body types and not the owners trying to improve what they are dissapointed with, they are limited by the compromise they were delivered and you cannot polish a turd. I recognise the potential for misunderstanding in my posts, I have difficulty expressing myself in English these days but I also recognise the style of those who choose to misinterpret to provoke.

Just to confirm, I did not make any observations about peoples modifications to their vehicles, I said that to use the same suspension system on a Golf and Skoda Superb would be a compromise for one if not both the vehicles. I have not owned a Golf either before you ask.

I am close to despair at the thought of 3 weeks without an MPG update, its very selfish & uncharitable but I find myself hoping that lightning strikes again & your 3rd holiday is cancelled. Could you not drive to your holiday & give us daily updates?

I have learned over the years to recognise certain types of postings & not respond to or engage with the author , very few but yours is one of them. I have never owned or modified a Superb.

That is because the sensor in question is the one that measures the angle of the motorised throttle valve in the intake tract, they have replaced a perfectly serviceable part and left you with the fault. You are the second person in as many days that has been relieved of their hard earned for a throttle pedal sensor by a garage that cannot even read a fault code properly. The good news is that the throttle valve most likely only needs cleaning unless the gears have stripped. The bad news is that the garage would not tell you that.

This thread would suggest that the worst thing about this executive sized car is that it is on the same common platform as the VW Golf. You can only do so much by varying spring & damper rates & if you look at the part numbers the same items are used across all the models, the two vehicles at the extreme ends of the range really should not be sharing the same suspension set up.

That corresponds with my suggestion that it was not working before, I cant see what someone fitting brake pads could do to bring it back to life but if they had to disconnect the battery or remove any fuses then they might. When I got my car I found a badly bodged connection to the battery leading into the entrails of the vehicle, I disconnecetd it and waited to see what stopped working, nothing did and I completely forgot about it. A year later Ihooked up my trailer and the lights did not work, checked back to the relay and found it was unpowered, traced the wire back through the door sill trims, through the bulkhead to under the bonnet to find it was the cable that I had disconected. Be aware that the relay you have can significantly increase the parasitic battery drain, mine are all now switched so only draw current when I want them to.

You have either an earthing problem on one or both (if a common earth) of the rear light clusters almost certainly caused by damp/water ingress or possibly within the towing socket, your going over it with the power hose will have either caused o exacerbated it. The bypass relay module will click the relevant relay (there are 6 or 8) when a voltage is detected on that circuit, earth problems will cause backfeeding of voltage to the other circuits, the relays will always click when switching on and off but are usually inaudible, at least to my old ears, no idea why it should have chosen now to become more audible, perhaps the feed to the relay had been disconnected before or had a bad connection, who knows. In any case you need to check the earths at the rear, the connections to the towing socket and relay and finally the relay operation, there should be an audible "beep" when the indicators are used if a trailer is connected, its not a click and should not be happening if you do not have trailer lights connected but anything could be happening with bad earths and water. Most bypass relays will function even when a trailer/caravan lighting plug is not inserted, the audible "beep" should only occur when inserted and if the trailer/caravan indicator light is functioning. I cant hear mine when in motion with the rear seats up.

Its so easy to get out, or at least was on the earlier cars, that you might as well remove it and lubricate the bushes & free up the brushes in their holders. Better than spending loads of money only to still hear the tinkling and know you have replaced a functional part.

If the noise is coming from there it will likely be low refrigerant pressure & a recharge would stop it, compressor noise would be noticeable under the bonnet, its possible that the recharge after compressor replacement will be what actually cured the noise.

Hadn't seen your vehicle is 2014, my experience will not be relevant & I simply followed the advice on here from people like Langers & Rustynuts, you will be better off with their expert knowledge.

£400 to refit a radio? It sounds like you need to change the canbus control module for one with a later revision, its what I had to do when I had the same problem with an aftermarket radio. Do you by any chance have a towbar fitted with a relay interface for the towing electrics? They have a not insignificant 24/7 current draw.

Really enjoyed the battery recon video Colin, no need for protective clothing when the workers are responsable for their own safety, open buckets of acid and molten lead yet not a single hole in his clothing or feet I wondered how he was going to seal the casing and liked the way he applied the hot melt glue, I would be a bit worried carrying the battery though!

But they claimed that it was the CO content that exceeds the limit, in fact its low as it should be at Lambda 1.03. I bet they either are suddenly able to find & print the results or will be trying to refund the test fee.

The UK regsistration document, ignore it as its of no relevance to you and it would not show the country of origin were it imported in any case/

Why do you have both analogue guages & LED readouts of the water temperature and battery voltage? What are the two illuminated switches for?

You speak of "stretched cables" which I agree is the regularly used term but like much recieved wisdom is incorrect. If you compare the new cable against the supposedly "stretched" one you will see that it is the outer flexible sheath that has contracted with use, its only really apparent when the load is applied as they spring back when released, so the difference in length of the outer that you see when both cables are laid side by side is much greater when in operation on the vehicle.

So the imbalance has not changed no matter what parts were changed, bleeding etc or did it occur during the work? You could try disconnecting both handbrake cables & manually actuating the adjusters, also swopping the linings from one side to the other, I cannot justify any of these actions logically but sometimes doing things like that make the fault move or change, gives you what may be the key clue. I would also put the wheels in the air and gradually operate the handbrake one notch at a time feeling the resistance of each drum, you might also try it with someone gradually applying the footbrake but they will need to hold rock steady while you go from side to side. I believe it will be either adjustment or air in the system, a partial blockage in the ABS block for instance should equalise if a constant pressure is put on the pedal and both brakes should then be equal. Possibly an ABS valve leaking fluid back to the master cylinder, you could try holding the brakes on for a long time with a constant pressure just enough to lock the rear wheels & see if one releases. As a very last resort you could plumb in any old master cylinder to the rear brakes only and actuate it, if they come on equally then it has to be the ABS valve block.

Paint code is in raised lettering on rear of wheels.