J.R.

The first statement is incorrect because your battery in the second statement showing 12.7v on the bench would show only 12.36v on the vehicle with the bonnet open and the drain from all the awake canbus controllers, disconnecting the battery terminal would see it jump to 12.7v or higher. On that generation of TDi they had some stupid system that would not allow a cold engine to start below a certain cranking rpm and it wasn't voltage dependant, people were sometimes having to change starter motors rather than batteries or the better solution of having the function mapped out. I agree that it starting with a jump pack means a new battery will probably have the vehicle starting but the underlying issue may be starter motor, cleaning all the starter and earth connections is a wise move. The crazy thing being my TDIs of that generation without the dumb programming would start on one half of a lazy turn from a nearly dead battery.

I bought some, car is not running any better, I will try spilling it over the rear wing 😁 Maybe I should wait 2 years?

Most of the stuff I bought was OK but one that I had great hopes for turned out to be a chocolate teapot. It was a set of bolt/stud extractors with a 1/4" hex shank for use in a cordless drill/driver, one end a drill bit the other end an expanding type mole (think Thunderbirds) tapering left hand spiral, great video demonstration and I know thet the real McCoy works really well but costs a load of money. First time I needed to use one I drilled the pilot hole forgetting there was the drill bit on one end, the tapered extractor would not bite so I thought open up my hole with the correct drill which appeared more like a tapered slot drill for a milling machine. That would not remove any metal and seemed suspiciously soft, it had the supposed titanium coating which seemed to be gold paint, I tested the hardness with a file and within a couple of stroke had removed the entire (not) drilling end. Soft as sh1te mild steel, not the HSS stamped on the side which they will say probably means something else like the CE marking meaning China Engineering 🥴

I wonder if I bought some and did not put it in the tank if my car would run better?

Shock absorber length does not alter the ride height, if they are too short they risk breaking on full rebound and the vehicle may lift a wheel when cornering at the limit. The Scout having a higher ride height from longer springs would likely have longer shock absorbers to match.

I dont think it comes into the purchasing criteria, I buy what I want to drive or what I want to repair and wont mind driving, I would have to adapt in a similar way to the individual vehicle whatever side the wheel is on, most of it is automatic and intuitive like driving with the head slightly turned to have equal vision left and right, los knowing that on certain junctions I must pull up at an angle sit up in the seat and turn my whole body around as well as my neck.

That is what I drive, TBH I had never given it a thought as I am so used to compensating after 18 years of RHD in France. I have a specific problem of being blind in the left eye so cant see as far to the left and the straight ahead field of vision is narrower, when I take a Priorité à Droite I especially one at an acute angle I really do sail through without looking (Inshallah!) because there is no point, the width of the A and B pillars in the Yeti causes me a very large blind spot and I have to position the passenger seat and headrest to not add to the B post blind spot. The MK1 Octavia was fine, the MK2 terrible by comparison, the Yeti worse still, no different to any other newer vehicle and less of a problem for those with 2 eyes.

Lambda 1.0, the Stochiometric ratio is what every engine made since the early 90's has been set to run at, you may be right with the underlined text though 👍

No, those words mean nothing to me but I'm intrigued now! It was the first ridiculous term I could think of that would hopefully not be taken as offensive by a sensitive soul, I know one member dresses as a fox so thought I would be safe with goat!

Could you not have found something smaller to fan the radiator with to cool it down than a trailer tent?

Notice all the brick ****houses at the bottom of all the gardens of the terraced cottages with the road access behind them for removing the waste just like the miners cottage that my father was born in. Your house being posh did not have one nor the road access to have one, it probably had a septic tank, are you on mains drainage now? I should have connected by now but waiting for a pal with a digger, the road only got mains drainage about 5 years ago.

Fascinating 👍

Thanks for the explanation, I never knew that. Am I right in my thinking that as there is the border of stones then pedestrians should have priority and vehicles should not park or drive on it? My first thoughts at seeing the photos were "ugh, I would not want to live there" to be fair it looks no different to many photographs that I see on this forum of people vehicles parked at their modern homes, very little or no front gardens and cars parked on the footpaths all around, my house in the UK that I only sold 2 years ago was built in the 50's when there was little provision for vehicles, nonetheless every house had a driveway and space beside for a garage and pretty much 100% had garages built and were using them as garages when I bought there in the mid 80's, back then it had plenty of room for parking, much more than the then new build estates. When I moved there there would be one car per household, a few with two, gradually over the years children had vehicles, familys got bigger, the garages got filled up with tat or converted to living space and cars started being parked all along every house frontage, if you didn't want to be looking at your neighbours childrens car in front of your garden then you made it into parking with a dropped kerb, gradually every front garden mine included became paved over but that still was not enough for the bigger families buying houses that had been massively extended. It was a lovely community a cul de sac where I had the same neighbours for 3 decades but eventually the sheer volume of vehicles and one household in particular with loads of adult children with cars, their boyfriends & girlfriends cars and worse of all the parents dropping off and picking up children from the childminding business and their totally selfish parking blocking off the whole street destroyed the neigbourhood. It sound like Winston Woof is very considerate and his neighbours likewise but the layout of that close with no front gardens, no seperation between the front doors and the road and footpath is a problem waiting to happen either when there are young children living or playing there or when they grow up and become car owners. The legacy that I left to the close where I sold the house in the UK was to win by hook or by crook planning permission for a second dwelling beside mine meaning even more vehicles and worse still a shared driveway

Footpath.

Cannot obstruct the footpath by parking parallel.

They are not the one making the claim on an internet forum. I have not had a DPF or EGR valve problem since I identified as a goat.

All these oil ash figures are simply fantasy, the ECU cannot measure it, it can only estimate what it thinks it might be. You can even reset it to zero using VCDS without getting your hands dirty. The only figure that I keep an eye on is the DPF differential pressure, that is an actual reading, I study it in conjunction with the soot mass which is another fantasy calculated figure but if its close to zero then the vehicle has regenned very recently so any back pressure will not be caused by the soot.

What am I supposed to be looking at? It looks standard to me? I really hated the look of the chrome grille surround, it to me looked totally out of place, during the lockdown I carefully removed it and flatted it with a scotchbrite wheel on my pedestal polishing rig, then sprayed it matt black and oversprayed that with 2 pack lacquer to stop stone chips. It looked great and was a 100%................................................................................ failure it is chipped to hell now and each one reveals abraded chrome finish, not one of my better ideas othe than it looked good for a while. There is a matt black grille surround available and it was fitted to the Monté Carlo models but costs a lot more than the plastic chromed one. I wish I had used Plastidip or a vinyl wrap now.

Mine is a 110 CFHF and will drive happily at 30mph in 6th gear as long as you accelerate gently until reaching 35mph at which point it will accelerate smoothly even on a wide open throttle. It was like yours but not as bad until I cleaned out all the clag build up in the throttle valve, dependant on the mileage and how it has been driven yours might really benefit from some spring cleaning, the flexibility and fuel consumption both improved dramatically on mine. Its remapped now but was the standard 110hp minus several lost ones when I declagged the intake.

How can it possibly do that? The ECU decides when the conditions are correct for it to command a regeneration, oil temperature and DPF temperature are both input parameters, if snake oil were to be able to lower either of these temperatures which I doubt the regen would not be commanded.

All comments correct about preventative maintenance but the issue here was that of "incorrect" fitting, that sounds far to harsh, what I mean to say is being able to fit the lock in such a way to avoid this situation. It has caught me out several times and what I have learned to do is to look very carefully at the alignment of the bonnet retaining loop and the jaw of the catch and also any up and down adjustment, I try to align it perfectly and adjust the up and down to leave an excessive amount of clearance such that when closed it would rattle and also only partially tighten the fixing bolts. This way minimises the chances of the lock being closed under tension, most locks will not release if under tension aside from maglocks, even so its always a anxious moment when I first close the bonnet. Once that is done and verified central then I gradually sneak up on the adjustments till the bonnet latches correctly but not too firmly.

Not another one, 🥴its a growing phenomenon, could it be the after effects of the lockdown?

Not at all irrelevant, the compression test is to check for compression losses or to confirm that all is well with the most likely cause of oil consumption, piston & bore wear or damage, if it gives good results and there are no obvious significant oil leaks then the valve stem seals or absence thereof are the cause. It should not cost much as its a 5 or 10 minute job, I wont hazard a guess at price as I have not liven in the UK for 20 years and never used garages for repairs even before then.

You must have a really encyclopaedic knowledge of Australian motoring law! Driving ban my ar5e!

No. If you are handy on the tools then you will find that the alignment of the front crash beam affects all the panel gaps at the front of the vehicle especially where they meet with the headlights, I had to slot the fixing holes on mine to get things to line up correctly. The front wings bolt on and you might be able to better the current door and bonnet gaps again possibly by slotting the fixing holes, the same deal with the bonnet. You speak of the boot, I presume you mean the rear hatch, much less scope for adjustment there but look to see of the rubber closing stop blocks are in position, I think they may be adjustable.